Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Ruger PC Carbine


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, sx2gl35 said:

Sorry BBB, I should have followed up on that.   6-48 is correct and the Brownells 6-48 Positive Stop Screws work perfectly. 

 

No worries. And thank you.

 

Did you use the ones with the “cap” or the flush style? 

 

 

Link to comment
  • Replies 306
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Personally I would just run the brimstone trigger if you want an overtravel stop. So much cleaner install, hammers and sears seem to vary, some are happy with the ones they used others not so much. My Power Custom set was great in a 10/22 but has a small amount of creep when installed in the PC and I would definetly not recommend using the 10/22 hammer spring. The weight differnce in the pull is tiny and the PC spring gives a more positive reset without the chance of it doubling on you or the hammer getting bounced off the sear and not resetting. Right now I have about 3k through mine and its starting to have ejection issues. Gonna order a new extractor from ruger if they have them and see how bad the tip is worn on mine. Right now its losing control of the case when the ejector hits and instead of pivoting out of the gun its hitting the forward section of the reciever. Sucks because this thing was dead reliable for 2k plus rounds.

Link to comment
6 hours ago, JsK said:

Personally I would just run the brimstone trigger if you want an overtravel stop. So much cleaner install, hammers and sears seem to vary, some are happy with the ones they used

 

So since I don't have a 10/22 and am not familiar with any of the trigger group parts. How about a list of 10/22 parts you  use in the PC Carbine.

And all I see is Brimstone the brimstone trigger and work on the Ruger 10/22 stock trigger. Does Brimstone make other 10/22 parts?

Link to comment
21 hours ago, BigBamBoo said:

 

No worries. And thank you.

 

Did you use the ones with the “cap” or the flush style? 

 

 

I used the flush style and no loctite; just firmly tightened them.  Still tight after 1,000 rounds, just checked.

Link to comment
  • 3 months later...
Anyone having trouble with extraction?
Manual bolt operation I have intermittent failure to extract.
I stripped it and the extractor looks like its worn or the tip broke off.
I have nothing to compare it to.

No no problems, 100% I will try to take a pic of my extractor and post back


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment

Can you turn it on its side and take the picture?

I shoot with another guy that also has the same problem.

It's intermittent but it never happened before.

I almost DQ'ed last night. I had to shoot out the last rnd twice.

+ the gun gets pretty dirty unlike the AR.

I just looked at the extractor on a new hybrid bolt I have and hook is quite a bit more pronounced.

I need to do more investigation.

 

Link to comment

Will try more angles, not home at this time .
Yes very true it gets very nasty fast in there[emoji15]lots of carbon and powder residue
Maybe some one like volquartsen will build more aftermarket parts for this pcc .I Run a lot of there parts in my 10/22 and Ruger mark pistol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment

I am sure there will be plenty of aftermarket parts eventually.

The thing is when I first got it, it was great super accurate and when

I got the plate from Brian for the rear sight mount of the red dot I thought

I was in business. Got rid of my cheek pad and went for it.

So now I have had issues at 3 matches.

The thing is it out shoots the AR period.

Link to comment

I shoot 100, 115, 124, 147 and 165. The 147's show almost no jump when fired with an Alchin Comp.

Loaded on a Dillon with a Lee Factory Crimp Die.

N340 3.8g  OAL 1.140

It was amazing to me that the Carbine eats anything!

The 100's were a little hot and I think the copper was coming off.

I liked the 147's so i stuck with them.

I need to put the bolt back together and see how well it holds the case.

The other thing is you have to completely disassemble the rifle for cleaning.

You cant just take the barrel of and shoot some brake cleaner on the bolt.

Trigger group needs virtually no cleaning.

And around the top of the mag well and ejector just needs to be wiped out.

The bolt takes all the carbon and crap.

Its hard to tell with the side pictures of the extractor if mine is worn more.

Regardless I have been looking at extractors on my other 9's and they definitely have a more pronounced hook and notch for the case rim.

The Ruger extractor it looks like a good failure point.

I cant get a decent picture of my extractor.

Hopefully someone will come up with a more reliable extractor.

Look I love the rifle but!

Link to comment

SO we've found out that after time.....the ejector tends to bend down a little, causing ejection issues. We've bent it back up....but if you bend it too far up it will catch in 'crack' (if you have a Ruger, you'll know what I mean).  What I did was take the bolt apart......and polished out the sharp edges on that 'crack' so that the ejector just touches the bolt but does not catch......seems to be working great!!

Link to comment
53 minutes ago, TRUBL said:

BTW.....doing the mod to the extractor like Frozen did......also seems to help as well. Really hope someone address's the extractor at some point in the after market world

 

Not sure I follow this. Can you tell me or point me to the Frozen mod?

Link to comment
15 minutes ago, ekraus said:

Not sure I follow this. Can you tell me or point me to the Frozen mod?

My bad......i had thought he did some polishing. We some work to ours........I will take pics next time I clean the gun......sorry about that

Link to comment

To late for the pictures I put it back together. Will try and take some next cleaning.

A case in the end of the bolt it pretty loose compared to several other guns .

I am trying to get another extractor. When I do I will modify this one.

The only place you can get any is Ruger and I cant find where you can buy spare parts.

If you cant get spare parts you cant use it for competition.

Maybe the rifle was dirty. Maybe there is not enough tension.

The bolt face was extremely dirty.

Guess I'll work on my AR and see if I can dial it in.

 

Link to comment

I thought about stretching the spring.

I think the extractor needs a mod in the shape of the hook and the depth.

If you compare it to other extractors an look at how it fits in the case notch above the rim

It doesn't compare.

Ruger needs to make parts available. Namely, Firing Pin and spring , Extractor and spring, ejector and recoil spring.

I would be more then happy to purchase these to have as spares.

I would like to know how rnds shooters put through the Carbine before cleaning.

 

 

Link to comment
48 minutes ago, ekraus said:

 

I've also had ruger send me a different glock magazine adapter and the new one has the same issues, so I don't think it's the ejector.

 

The extractors seem to show uneven wear. There is a lot of play in the slot the extractor sits allowing for slight canting of the extractor. 

 

I agree, the hook on the extractor seems poor. They need one like tandemkross or vq make for the rimfire Mark line.

 

Cleaning... anywhere between 200 and 2000 rounds. It doesn't seem to matter.

 

Not likely a cause, but I noticed this. I ran it with a c-more railway. Had so many problems I took the dot off. Shot it iron sights for steel challenge and was 2 seconds short of GM 1st time shooting it. No malfunctions. 

 

Tomorrow, action steel iron sights. 

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...