Dot Size

[outerlimits]

So how can you tell what size dot you have???? I have 2 c-mores and one is bigger than the other.

Flyin40

check the color of the marking beneath the dot module...

[eric nielsen]

There are coded colors under the every C-More dot module.

You can also try the chart at the bottom of this webpage:

http://www.excaliburenterprises.com/scopes...o/tascodot.html

[caspian38]

So how can you tell what size dot you have???? I have 2 c-mores and one is bigger than the other.

Flyin40

8 moa has a blue dot on the bottom of the led sensor, the 16 moa has a purple dot ... I don't know the other colors but if the small dot is is blue and the other is not purple than its a twelve right ?

some one should know what color a twelve is

C-38

[B.J. Norris]

6 MOA is blue, 8 MOA is yellow and 12 MOA is orange.

[XRe]

The 8 MOA module that came out of my C-More has *no* marking on the bottom... So...

You can also make dots of appropriate sizes on paper and compare - that way, no chance of your zero changing... For reference, at 12.5 yards (37.5 feet), the circle diameters would be:

2 MOA - 1/4"

4 MOA - 1/2"

6 MOA - 3/4"

8 MOA - 1"

12 MOA - 1.5"

16 MOA - 2"

Draw the circles you think apply, step off approx 12 yards (you don't have to be exactly at 12.5 for this to work), and then run the dot over the circles. You'll find the one that fits...

The full list (I think one or two are missing above?):

2 - Red

4 - Green

6 - Blue

8 - Yellow

12 - Orange

16 - Purple

[Flyin40]

Checked out both C-mores today, one is blue and the other doesn't have a color.

I switched the battery in one and now both dots are the same size. The battery died at the match during a stage. You could still see it in when you were out of the sun but with the sun at my back and and a almost dead battery results in no dot when you look at the lens.

Now I'm thinking of going with a bigger dot, guess we should have a poll on who used what dot.

Flyin40

[Zerwas]

Guys, thanks for all the GREAT information. I too have a C-more that doesn't have a color (it's and older serendipidy). With the extra hints you threw out there, Iwas able to determine I have an 8 minute dot. Thanks!

BigD, I LOVE your avitar...laugh out loud funny!

Edited March 10, 2006 by TRP-Professional

[Flexmoney]

I added a poll.

[.40AET]

Thanks for adding the poll. There was a similar poll a couple of years ago. I bought my dot module based on the feedback from the poll and I've been very happy with it. I bought a used C-more and it was too old to have the markings. C-more can test the module and tell you what you have if you really need to know.

[Carl]

On Cmore's site they have a good illustration of Dot Sizes in relation to targets.

http://www.cmore.com/diode.html

BTW, I have tried 12, 8, and 6. I like the 6 best. but my eyes are old and not as focused as they once were, so you may need a different one. Best suggestion is to try different ones, and see what you like the best.

Carl

[Flyin40]

Nice touch adding the class along with the dot size Flex.

Flyin40

[Brazos Custom]

Some notes on selecting a dot size, etc:

C-more drills the holes in the diode - they will vary somewhat - sometimes 6 MOA looks like an 8 MOA or the reverse.

If you are using a smaller dot it will be more likely to wash out in bright sunlight - if you shoot in the south where the sun is bright most of the year you might want to go a little larger on the dot.

The 4 MOA dot has a metallic coating around the hole which is lighter in color and which reflects light back to the lens so if you want a 4 MOA dot make sure to get a glare shield.

The diode hole has a tendency to fill up with dirt/powder residue keep it clean with compressed air but realize if you use a smaller dot that you will need to replace your battery more often and will need to replace the dot every once in a while

You can make your dot appear larger by turning it up all the way until it flares a little. This helps on stages where everything is close and you need extra speed.

Use a voltmeter to test the old battery when you replace it. A new battery will run around 3.4 volts a worn out one around 2.4 volts. If you are replacing batteries because your dot looks dim and the old battery still has 3.0 volts it is probably time to replace the module.

When sighting in use a black paster and turn the dot all the way down until you can see through it. Then center the paster in the dot.

When you change the dot module you will have to sight-in again. The hole location varies enough to make this a necessity.

Edited March 9, 2006 by Brazos Custom

[XRe]

When sighting in use a black paster and turn the dot all the way down until you can see through it. Then center the paster in the dot.

I do exactly this, except at 50 yards, I build a small square out of black pasters, to match the size of the dot at that range... 3 inches for my 6 MOA dot. I want the bullets cutting the top of the square at 50 yards - then I'm in the dot from 12.5 yards until out past 100...

[caspian38]

Ok I just measured mine ...ignore the colors ! my blue is definitely not a 6 moa it is like 8-10 moa... and the receipt says 8 moa but the diode is marked BLUE.

my 16 moa is 16 though, maybe 15.

I'm really trying to help =) glad you already figured it out !

we had A-zones only at about 20 yards and head shots only with steel scattered about in my last match and my 16 moa was the only gun that shot the stage CLEAN out of about 20 shooters... with the fastest time.

I have also noticed it helps me to call my shots more since I can't see them behind that big red thing blocking the A zone.

Edited March 9, 2006 by caspian38

[BigD]

I appreciate all the good info on this thread. I went ahead and told Virgil to put an 8 MOA on my open gun he's building. I guess if I want to go smaller later, I can.

Darin

[Chris Keen]

I added a poll.

Thanks for adding the poll.

He's just great like that!

Edited March 9, 2006 by C.Keen

[Radical Precision Designs]

The 8 MOA module that came out of my C-More has *no* marking on the bottom... So...

You can also make dots of appropriate sizes on paper and compare - that way, no chance of your zero changing... For reference, at 12.5 yards (37.5 feet), the circle diameters would be:

2 MOA - 1/4"

4 MOA - 1/2"

6 MOA - 3/4"

8 MOA - 1"

12 MOA - 1.5"

16 MOA - 2"

Draw the circles you think apply, step off approx 12 yards (you don't have to be exactly at 12.5 for this to work), and then run the dot over the circles. You'll find the one that fits...

The full list (I think one or two are missing above?):

2 - Red

4 - Green

6 - Blue

8 - Yellow

12 - Orange

16 - Purple

This indeed is very helpfull in ascertaining the size of dot coverage at your target for a specific distance.

There is one more "very important" piece of knowledge I believe we all should take into account. "individual actual perceived (seen) size" depending on distance between the sight lens and your eye pupil. This varies noticeably between shooters according to their arms lenght and style of shooting. The formula is thus that as this distance increases the perceived dot size actually decreases, and as you bring the lens closer to you eye the dot size increases. With standard "magnified" reticles this variation is less as they require a minimum distance for "eye relief". There is no eye relief requirements in most red dot sights as most include no magnification (1X=1.1) Since the factory has no way of telling the "individual" eye/lens distance they use an average for all. You can use their numbers and then move your arms/head back and forth to match the specific circle size (MOA). Some people may be using a #6 MOA, but because of their style of shooting, (eg. extending to full isosceles, modified Weaver, or hunching the head forward, etc.) they could actually perceive/see a #4 MOA or an #8 MOA instead.

You will also notice that because of "ejection characteristics" most C-More sights are mounted in roughly the same spot/distance in top of your gun, and as low as possible so long as there is no complete interference. (Most of the side mounted bases are made offset for this reason) But, consistently this mounting position has been long adopted by most, making this variable a "standard" item. Recently some base manufacturers and pistolsmiths (including myself) have started to experiment and offer for sale various side mounted bases that will offer the capability of changing the "standard" mounting position by offering different centering offsets, and forward/rearward positioning, including various drilled/tapped spacing within the base to suite the user. This is especially welcomed by the new breed of "Shorty" users to eliminate lens "blasting" or blast shield rough impacting. Of course this will also change the perceived dot size as you move the sight rearwards in the mount/base.

So as you, fellow shooters can see, there are a few variables to consider before ascertaining which "actual" dot size you are "seeing" in the target. Maku mozo!

[Sharyn]

I'm trying to figure out how to correlate the results of the dot size vs. class poll... So far, 4 GMs have responded and there are 4 people using either 2 or 4 MOA... is that their secret??? And most responders are in A/B class and/or use 6 MOA... it that what's holding me back???

I used to use an 8 until I tried to shoot A's on a partially covered target at 30+ yards. The dot obscured the area of the target I wanted to see. So, I switched to a 6. Anything bigger tends to distract my attention. I like to focus on the target and be aware of the dot. I would probably like a 4 the best... except, even though I ask nicely, I don't always receive my request for overcast skies...

[outerlimits]

I'm trying to figure out how to correlate the results of the dot size vs. class poll... So far, 4 GMs have responded and there are 4 people using either 2 or 4 MOA... is that their secret??? And most responders are in A/B class and/or use 6 MOA... it that what's holding me back???

I used to use an 8 until I tried to shoot A's on a partially covered target at 30+ yards. The dot obscured the area of the target I wanted to see. So, I switched to a 6. Anything bigger tends to distract my attention. I like to focus on the target and be aware of the dot. I would probably like a 4 the best... except, even though I ask nicely, I don't always receive my request for overcast skies...

i'm a lowly master and like the 6 min dot, for the same reason. 8 is just too big for those tight or long shots. i tried a 4 for awhile, but in the bright sun it was tough to acquire at times. having said that, my steel gun has about a 14 min dot, of my own creation.

[Old Blind Squirrel]

I use a 4 MOA dot on my open gun and also on my 22 steel gun. I like the size. I had an 8 but felt it was too big. I have been known to "look" for the dot, but that is not the dot size causing that. It is the loose nut behind the gun or as my signature says.

Old Blind Squirrel

[MTrout40]

I voted for 4 MOA/ GM class. For me, when the dot is bright enough the 4 is plenty big enough for speed, small enough for 50yd standards, and fits nicely on an upper panel shot at 25.

8 is way too big for my preference. I've never tried a two, but if I switch back to open in the future I may try it. I like little dots that are bright.

MT

[PaulW]

I voted for the 6moa GM class. Main reason....I loved the 4 moa until having to shoot a stage early one moring at a state match. Dot was so washed out I could barely make out the dot on the target. So 6 moa was a good place to go.

[matt2ace]

I have always run a 4 min. dot on my optics. I always found the more typical 6-8min dot to look huge in the sight. I found that the smaller dot allowed me better accuracy on targets, especially longer shots. I have run Jpoints on the slide, DrDot and C-more on frame mounts, all with 4 min. dots. When I try larger dots, they seemed to block more of the targets making it harder for me to call accurate shots as quickly as I do with the smaller dot.

I know most people run 6-8 min dots.......I am interested in hearing why vs a smaller dot?

For those running 4min. dots, are you driven by the same issues as I have?

Edited January 14, 2009 by matt2ace

[AWLAZS]

Matt I use a 6. A smaller dot washes out for me on sunny days. One of the benefits of using a dot is the speed in which you can use it. If you have to hunt for a little dot use a bigger one. If you lose it on sunny day go with a bigger one.

If it works for you the way it is you are all set.

[larry cazes]

I use a 10 for all of the reasons already stated above. What may be the more important issue is how sharp that dot is. On an Aimpoint the dot is very sharp, not so much on the Cmores I have used so that could be an issue for some. I find that at 50 yds I can reliably hit a plate or an A zone. What more is needed?