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ckaplan88

Zev Glock Slide w/ Zev internals - 40% light strikes HELP

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Hello everyone, been creeping this forum for a long time, first post here...

 

So, I recently built a ZEV slide gen 3 glock 19 and took it out to shoot for the first time yesterday. My results are 40% light strikes with occasional failure for the slide to go back fully into battery. When it did shoot, it shot extremely well, however after calling ZEV tech with my issues, they said I definitely should not be having those issues with my spring weights (striker = 4 lb wolff, Recoil = 13 lb ISMI), but to put a few hundred more rounds down range to break it in, they said the slide tolerances are extremely tight..

 

Here are my internals:

ZEV Dragonfly Slide

ZEV Skeletonized LW Striker

Wolff 4 lb striker spring

ZEV Safety Plunger

ZEV Match Barrel

Glock OEM Gen 3 frame

Overwatch Precision TAC Trigger Bar/Shoe

ZEV Captured Guide rod w/ 13 lb ISMI spring

Wolff XP Trigger Return Spring

 

I was shooting this crap the range sold called "Hot Shot 115 grain", I'm wondering if maybe the crappy ammo coupled with the tight tolerances are causing my issues? Anyone have similar problems??

Total round count in this build is ~130 rounds. 

 

For what it's worth, my G34 has a DK Customs trigger kit w/ IDP LW Striker, 4 lb spring and 13 lb ISMI with zero light strikes..

 

 

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I would try some good factory ammo first before I would get too upset.  Get a couple of hundred rounds and see what happens.  Make sure it is well lubed.  If it is still not running well, take a short video and send that to ZEV.  Good luck!

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I agree with tyrsman. Get some other factory rounds and try them first. Who knows what kind of primers are being used in those loads. If factory works then you can at least have a starting point for tuning. Just another quick question? Is the striker channel dry? You don’t want any lube inside that part cause it will create a seal and not allow the striker to move at its full speed. Just a thought. 

Edited by CamboSoup22

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Thanks, I will throw a hundred rounds of Blazer Brass through it and see how it reacts. Zev did ask me to ensure the channel liner was seated fully since I built it, I have not yet checked this however I will tonight. The channel liner *should* be dry, I degreased the slide before assembling however I'll check that tonight too.

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I had issues with Winchester White Box after installing a lightened striker spring and skeletonized striker.  The gun would only reliably set off Federal SPP.  

 

Pop in your OEM striker with the LW spring and see if that works.  In my experience, the light weight striker didn't have enough mass to set off some harder primers.  

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So here's another question that I've been mulling over... I have a 13 lb ISMI spring in my Glock 19, I know Wolff has lowest power rating being at 15 lbs, however I bought a 13 lb one from Zev..  My gun failed to return to battery and cycle a few times with the light strikes, do you think it's due to the Recoil Spring.. should I change it to 15 lbs or do you think it's the tolerances of the barrel and slide that just need to be broken in more?

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That’s a hard one but it don’t think it is that 13lb spring that is causing the issue. I’ve been able to get mine running with an 11lb recoils spring. Used it in open class and it worked reliably. Is the trigger resetting properly as well? You may have to change the extra power trigger return spring back to the original as well. Saw that with my cousin at a competition. He went through an entire cof with a “bolt action” glock. Changed it out between stages and he was good. Let us know what you find to get it reliable. It is possible 

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48 minutes ago, ckaplan88 said:

So here's another question that I've been mulling over... I have a 13 lb ISMI spring in my Glock 19, I know Wolff has lowest power rating being at 15 lbs, however I bought a 13 lb one from Zev..  My gun failed to return to battery and cycle a few times with the light strikes, do you think it's due to the Recoil Spring.. should I change it to 15 lbs or do you think it's the tolerances of the barrel and slide that just need to be broken in more?

 

13lb in 9mm should be fine.  

 

I had issues with the captured guide rods.  I could feel it binding while cycling.  Try switching to an uncaptured guide rod and see if your results change.  In my experience, the uncaptured guide rod made everything smoother.

 

Also, as I said above, switch back to the full mass OEM striker.  The low mass striker just doesn't have enough energy to set off hard primers.

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Trigger resets every time performing the recoil spring test with a dry gun, I hold it up pointing to ceiling, and let the slide release as slow as humanly possible and it goes back into battery and resets every time. I will keep that normal return spring in mind if nothing else works. I will also buy an uncaptured guide rod and test it out. 

 

Back to the striker mass, so I have the skeletonized one because of the 4 lb spring and I don't reload so I generally buy $200 a case of whatever 9mm I can get. Usually it's mag tech or blazer brass, but I guess if I use a normal striker with a 4 lb spring and Federal ammo then it shouldn't have light strikes?

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15 minutes ago, ckaplan88 said:

Trigger resets every time performing the recoil spring test with a dry gun, I hold it up pointing to ceiling, and let the slide release as slow as humanly possible and it goes back into battery and resets every time. I will keep that normal return spring in mind if nothing else works. I will also buy an uncaptured guide rod and test it out. 

 

Back to the striker mass, so I have the skeletonized one because of the 4 lb spring and I don't reload so I generally buy $200 a case of whatever 9mm I can get. Usually it's mag tech or blazer brass, but I guess if I use a normal striker with a 4 lb spring and Federal ammo then it shouldn't have light strikes?

 

There are a lot of variables at play, but I think you'll increase your chances of reliable ignition with the standard striker.  I had issues with the ZEV skeletonized striker.  All of my problems went away as soon as I put in the factor striker.  Regardless, federal primers are known to be the softest and are a safer bet with striker fired guns with lightened striker springs.

 

You may also consider a heavier striker spring down the line.  Your 4 lb may be fine when new, but after a few thousand rounds + however many dry fires, it will lose its springiness and may cause issues down the line.  I know a light trigger is sexy, but ultimately you need it to be reliable.   

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3 minutes ago, Gabes said:

 

There are a lot of variables at play, but I think you'll increase your chances of reliable ignition with the standard striker.  I had issues with the ZEV skeletonized striker.  All of my problems went away as soon as I put in the factor striker.  Regardless, federal primers are known to be the softest and are a safer bet with striker fired guns with lightened striker springs.

 

You may also consider a heavier striker spring down the line.  Your 4 lb may be fine when new, but after a few thousand rounds + however many dry fires, it will lose its springiness and may cause issues down the line.  I know a light trigger is sexy, but ultimately you need it to be reliable.   

Truth, the gun in question is more of a "range toy" or Carry Optics pistol, it's surely not going to be used for defense. However when every other round is a light strike, the range isn't so fun anymore. I will clean my gun soon and ensure the channel liner is dry and there is no gunk in there and also try shooting it with Blazer Brass and see my results. If it's just as bad I will throw in the 5 lb striker spring with zev striker and retest and if that sucks then try the 4 lb spring with the stock striker and see how she goes. 

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1 hour ago, ckaplan88 said:

Truth, the gun in question is more of a "range toy" or Carry Optics pistol, it's surely not going to be used for defense. However when every other round is a light strike, the range isn't so fun anymore. I will clean my gun soon and ensure the channel liner is dry and there is no gunk in there and also try shooting it with Blazer Brass and see my results. If it's just as bad I will throw in the 5 lb striker spring with zev striker and retest and if that sucks then try the 4 lb spring with the stock striker and see how she goes. 

 

Totally understand that it's a range toy/Carry Optics blaster.  I will tell you though that nothing is more frustrating then having good runs turn to shit because of inopportune light strikes.  

 

It's also embarrassing in a defensive situation, i'm sure.

 

Definitely play around with it; Glocks are easy enough to take apart etc.  I can tell you I've been down this path and settled for OEM striker, stock trigger bar that's been polished, 3.5 OEM Glock connector, enhanced trigger return spring, reduced power plunger spring, polished surface on the plunger, and a an ever so slightly reduced striker spring.

 

http://www.glockmeister.com/Glockmeister-Reduced-Power-Firing-Pin-Spring/productinfo/GMRPFPS/

 

You will appreciate a reliable gun.  The skill will come and be more rewarding when a gun fires every time!

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Get a 4.5lb striker spring. I've gotten light strikes with the 4lb spring even when using a lightened firing pin.

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So I just ordered a Jager uncaptured rod with a 13 lb ISMI spring and a Wolff 4.5 striker spring, so I'll test that out when it comes. My current pull weight is around 2.5 lbs so I'm assuming the 4.5 lb spring will increase to about a 3 lb pull, correct? 

 

It is a sexy gun though...

IMG_20171212_081032820.jpg

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4.5 or 5 pound striker spring.

 

Full weight factory striker. 

 

Those aren’t suggestions for a truly relaible Glock that is fed factory ammo and not designer  reloads. They’re mandatory.

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16 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

4.5 or 5 pound striker spring.

 

Full weight factory striker. 

 

Those aren’t suggestions for a truly relaible Glock that is fed factory ammo and not designer  reloads. They’re mandatory.

Yeah, even with a 5 lb striker spring in my other G19 it's a pretty light pull, I'll install the 4.5 lb spring with OEM striker (I have two sitting in spare parts bag) and re-test crappy range ammo.

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I'm surprised that you would use a stock striker over a lightened one with a 4.5 spring. I had tons of light strikes with that combo. a lightened/longer tipped striker solved the issue for me. 

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It all depends on the gun.  4.5 spring should work with a stock striker and bust any primer.  My 34 would run a 4 lb spring with a stock striker but I didn’t want to chance it so I went with a IDP striker.

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On 12/11/2017 at 5:38 AM, ckaplan88 said:

For what it's worth, my G34 has a DK Customs trigger kit w/ IDP LW Striker, 4 lb spring and 13 lb ISMI with zero light strikes..

 

This is a KEY data point that I immediately latched onto.  Does your 34 light up the "Hot Shot" Ammo?  If so then the striker or the ammo may not be the issue.

 

In the end there is really only one reliable way to troubleshoot your issue.  You need to replace each part one by one and test.  No other way around it.  You will be feeling around blind and drive yourself INSANE if you try to solve it in a random pattern.  You may get lucky or you may not.. if using random solutions.

Thankfully you have the DK kit handy.

 

The key is you have to replace a part one by one systematically and within reason (like say striker and spring all at once, or trigger assembly at once...) or else, changing multiple parts simultaneously will simply prolong your pain and may give you a false positive/negative.

Take diligent notes at the range while testing and be honest with yourself...  You'll be surprised how much you forget when you get home...  "Did that one part give me 40% light trikes or 10%??"

 

1.  Start with detail stripping the gun and in particular checking your firing pin block (FPB).  Sometimes the spring can go in sideways and cause the plunger to bind.  Check this plunger for divots same if there are dings in your firing pin/ striker.  You know there is an interference if so.

 

2.  NEVER use a lightened striker with an OEM striker spring.  Don't do it.  You will break your gourmet striker.

 

3.  Change the FPB from DK kit. (into your G19).

 

4.  Change the striker assembly with the DK kit.

 

5.  Change the trigger (sometimes there is interference with the "lifter").

 

6.  Borrow an OEM striker and OEM spring.. but in truth I think this is not needed since we have determined the DK kit works.

 

7.  Finally try to borrow an OEM G19 slide and put all your Zev upper parts in it.  (Then with the OEM Glock slide repeat step 1.)

 

8.  It could be an issue with the dimensions of the firing pin channel and or liner.  I have heard first hand from people who have complained of aftermarket slides being off in this area.

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8 hours ago, Sniperboy said:

 

This is a KEY data point that I immediately latched onto.  Does your 34 light up the "Hot Shot" Ammo?  If so then the striker or the ammo may not be the issue.

 

In the end there is really only one reliable way to troubleshoot your issue.  You need to replace each part one by one and test.  No other way around it.  You will be feeling around blind and drive yourself INSANE if you try to solve it in a random pattern.  You may get lucky or you may not.. if using random solutions.

Thankfully you have the DK kit handy.

 

The key is you have to replace a part one by one systematically and within reason (like say striker and spring all at once, or trigger assembly at once...) or else, changing multiple parts simultaneously will simply prolong your pain and may give you a false positive/negative.

Take diligent notes at the range while testing and be honest with yourself...  You'll be surprised how much you forget when you get home...  "Did that one part give me 40% light trikes or 10%??"

 

1.  Start with detail stripping the gun and in particular checking your firing pin block (FPB).  Sometimes the spring can go in sideways and cause the plunger to bind.  Check this plunger for divots same if there are dings in your firing pin/ striker.  You know there is an interference if so.

 

2.  NEVER use a lightened striker with an OEM striker spring.  Don't do it.  You will break your gourmet striker.

 

3.  Change the FPB from DK kit. (into your G19).

 

4.  Change the striker assembly with the DK kit.

 

5.  Change the trigger (sometimes there is interference with the "lifter").

 

6.  Borrow an OEM striker and OEM spring.. but in truth I think this is not needed since we have determined the DK kit works.

 

7.  Finally try to borrow an OEM G19 slide and put all your Zev upper parts in it.  (Then with the OEM Glock slide repeat step 1.)

 

8.  It could be an issue with the dimensions of the firing pin channel and or liner.  I have heard first hand from people who have complained of aftermarket slides being off in this area.

Sniper Boy, wow thanks for the input! Luckily I have another G19 that has stock slide/frame but using a 5 lb striker spring and OEM striker.. I was thinking of doing exactly what you said with the DK trigger setup and IDP lightweight striker that it comes with in the ZEV19 to see if it works. To be honest, I am fairly certain I've shot the same Hot Shot ammo with it, but I couldn't be 100% certain, this gun is mainly used for SSP IDPA matches and rarely hits the indoor range. Seems as I have some testing to do.. my biggest fear is that the aftermarket ZEV slide has too tight of a tolerance and is causing a binding ever so slightly in the firing pin liner like you said, even ZEV tech support said their tolerances are super tight, so if that's the case and this ZEV slide fails with the DK kit, a stock OEM striker w/ 5 lb spring and/or a ZEV striker w/ a 4.5 lb spring then I suppose I need to send it back to ZEV.

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Having a stock 19 slide makes it easier.

 

1.  Ensure that your stock G19 reliably ignites the ammo of your choice.

 

2.  As an alternative approach put all ALL your Zev upper parts in your stock G19 slide and put that slide on your modified lower. 

 

Good luck and take notes.

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i'm thinking  that you need  to  break in the  new  slide.otherwise, all  i  can say  is  that  i'm running  an ultimate  ZEV trigger  kit  including the V4 connector  and the  lightened  striker  with the 2lbs,yes the 2lbs  striker  spring,  and  i  aslo run a  ismi  13lbs RS. i  have  no troubles  with  FSP  AND  winchester primers,although  harder  primers  is  a  no  go.

 

mixing  different brands  of  springs  and  internal   race parts  may lead  to  this kind  of  random  gremlins .

 

i'd  suggest that  you get  the  V4  connector,  a  ZEV competition spring kit +  the 3lbs  standard striker  spring  in extra  and leave the  lightened  striker  in.

 

try  this  set up  with the  2lbs  striker  spring at  first ,  using  your  winchester  white  box  ammo  and  see.  you  might have  1  light strike  here  and there,not much.  then,put the 3lbs  striker  spring in, and  you should  have 0  problems.....as  for the  rest, i  prefer  having a  very thight slide  and  barrel assembly in need  of  a  serious  break in . that  way,once  properly  breaked  in, you  extract    the  most  out  of  your  gun  and the ultimate  accuracy  that comes  with such tight  barrel-slide  assembly. 

 

if  the  slide  is  really tight, that  means it might  not  go  fully  into  battery,and the  little  gap  left  once ¯back  is  enough  to  reset   the trigger, but  not  completely  so  you get   light strikes ;  while   in this  specific  case it  is  NOT  light strikes.it is  only  a  matter of  the  slide  not  getting  back  and closing  perfectly.

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