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How to tune ejection pattern?

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I have a G35 and the ejection pattern is all over the place.  

Can someone please show me how to tune the ejector or extractor? 

Thx 

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i plaid with extractor tension and ejector angles of g17 

 playing with  rs not recommended .

and  of coarse :

16 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Step 1: grip the gun more consistently.

 

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6 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Step 1: grip the gun more consistently.

This. The gun operates pretty consistently.  Your grip is more likely the problem.

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Apex (I think) makes an extractor that is supposed to aid in more consistent and sideways ejection. The Gen 4 9mms do suffer from erratic ejection, sometimes launching a spent case straight up in the air. You might also try a slightly hotter load or a lighter recoil spring.


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16 minutes ago, KennyP said:

The Gen 4 9mms do suffer from erratic ejection, sometimes launching a spent case straight up in the air.

Now that you mention it, my brother's G34 occasionally ejects one forward but this is not very often. Mostly they are in the same area and definitely not erratic.

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Is there any real benefit from ejector tuning? Assuming that you aren't having malfunctions or having brass hitting you in the face.

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As long as the cases clear the gun, or your dot, it doesn't matter. It's not like tuning a 1911. So assuming you hold your gun correctly, it won't matter, but if you have the right grip, and it still comes straight back at your face, put in an Apex extractor with a Gen 4 ejector.  My kid had to put this together on his Gen 3 G17 to keep it from beating up the Docter dot. Notice how it ejects a case up and out without a magazine? An OEM Glock will not do that.

 

 

 

 

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I read that If you have a Gen 3 pistol replacing  the ejector with the Gen 4 ejector helps. I've not done it myself but it looks really easy to do. 

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On 12/18/2017 at 6:25 PM, 9x45 said:

As long as the cases clear the gun, or your dot, it doesn't matter. It's not like tuning a 1911. So assuming you hold your gun correctly, it won't matter, but if you have the right grip, and it still comes straight back at your face, put in an Apex extractor with a Gen 4 ejector.  My kid had to put this together on his Gen 3 G17 to keep it from beating up the Docter dot. Notice how it ejects a case up and out without a magazine? An OEM Glock will not do that.

 

 

 

 

Is that PSGC??

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yes. do you shoot there?

 

Edited by 9x45

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On 12/10/2017 at 1:50 AM, MemphisMechanic said:

Step 1: grip the gun more consistently.

Boom.... 

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Funny!  I've been struggling with Glock's BTF (brass-to-face) problems for more than 5 years, now.  It ain't an inconsistent grip that causes all of the more recently built Glock pistols to throw their brass all over the frigg 'in place:  left side, right side, forwards, and backwards towards your face.  This problem first appeared and is rooted in the Glock factory's decision to replace their more expensive precision-built steel extractors with more poorly adhering and looser fitting MIM extractors.  Now that I've spent hundreds of (I think wasted) dollars and several years trying to figure this problem out, I'll offer this.  (This information is free; so if anyone doesn't like it, think about all the time and money that's been saved!)  

 

The claw on one of Glock's crappy MIM extractors lacks the precision fit and metallic adhesion of the more exact profile on the older machined steel extractors.  Consequently an extracted case is allowed to slip more freely than the former machined steel extractors would ever allow an extracting case to do.  Once the exact center of a withdrawing case head is allowed to slide down below the extractor's centerline, that case is, then, free to fly in any direction.  It also may, or may not, hit the ejection port.  Who knows in what direction a downward slipping case might go?  

 

How do you tune a Glock extractor that never should have been put in the pistol?  Oh, it's an art — an art!  I'll offer you this:  Start by using the stiffest recoil guide rod you're able to find for your Glock.  A stiffer (often steel) rod will help.  You can also use a White Sound, 'H.R.E.D' EDP rod.  Alternatively you can play around with trying to use different SLB's, and/or other extractors.  Sometime you'll hit on discovering a different SLB and/or extractor combo that speeds up the extraction process (and, thus, gives a case head less time to slip), and other times nothing you try will work.  I, quite honestly, do not know whether or not the Glock factory has changed any of the finished slide dimensions in order to match up with their use of these MIM extractors?  They may, or they may not have; but, if they did then this problem will be with all of us Glock owners for many years to come.  

 

Apex Tactical has tried to fix this problem by offering aftermarket machined steel extractors of their own; but a perfect (and final) cure has proven to be illusive.  I bought one; but it did NOT work in my G-19.  My older G-21's, with the original machined steel extractors in them, will throw ejected brass straight out to the righthand side of the gun for a good 8 to 10 feet!  My more recently purchased G-19, with the newer MIM extractor, just 'humps' the brass out 'a the ejection port in, at best, silly looking 3 foot arcs; but, at least nowadays, I've finally succeeded in keeping 99% of my ejecting brass on the righthand side of the gun.  (No small feat!  It took me about 2 1/2 years to accomplish, too.)  

 

Believe me:  This problem isn't being caused by your grip; and it isn't being caused by my grip, either.  It's a modern, pain in the butt, Glock manufacturing phenomenon; and it has been caused by the Glock factory's use of cheap MIM extractors.  

Edited by Arc Angel

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3 hours ago, Arc Angel said:

Funny!  I've been struggling with Glock's BTF (brass-to-face) problems for more than 5 years, now.  It ain't an inconsistent grip that causes all of the more recently built Glock pistols to throw their brass all over the frigg 'in place:  left side, right side, forwards, and backwards towards your face.  This problem first appeared and is rooted in the Glock factory's decision to replace their more expensive precision-built steel extractors with more poorly adhering and looser fitting MIM extractors.  Now that I've spent hundreds of (I think wasted) dollars and several years trying to figure this problem out, I'll offer you this.  (This information is free; so if anyone doesn't like it, think about all the time and money that's been saved!)  

 

The claw on one of Glock's crappy MIM extractors lacks the precision fit and metallic adhesion of the more exact profile on the older machined steel extractors.  Consequently an extracted case is allowed to slip more freely than the former machined steel extractors would ever allow an extracting case to do.  Once the exact center of a withdrawing case head is allowed to slide down below the extractor's centerline, that case is, then, free to fly in any direction.  It also may, or may not, hit the ejection port.  Who knows in what direction a downward slipping case might go?  

 

How do you tune a Glock extractor that never should have been put in the pistol?  Oh, it's an art — an art!  I'll offer you this:  You can start by using the stiffest recoil guide rod you're able to find for your Glock.  A stiffer (often steel) rod will help.  You can also use a White Sound, 'H.R.E.D' EDP rod.  Alternatively you can play around with trying to use different SLB's.  Sometime you'll hit on discovering a different SLB that speeds up the extraction process (and, thus, gives a case head less time to slip), and other times this little trick won't work.  I, quite honestly, do not know whether or not the Glock factory has changed any of the finished slide dimensions in order to match with their use of these MIM extractors?  They may, or they may not have; but, if they did then this problem will be with all of us Glock owners for many years to come.  

 

Apex Tactical has tried to fix this problem by offering aftermarket machined steel extractors of their own; but a perfect (and final) cure has proved to be illusive.  I bought one; and it did NOT work in my G-19.  My older G-21's, with the original machined steel extractors in them, will throw ejected brass straight out to the lefthand side of the gun for a good 8 to 10 feet!  My more recently purchased G-19, with the newer MIM extractor, just 'humps' the brass out 'a the ejection port in, at best, silly looking 3 foot arcs; but, at least nowadays, I've finally succeeded in keeping 99% of my ejecting brass on the lefthand side of the gun.  (No small feat!  It took me about 2 1/2 years to accomplish, too.)  

 

Believe me:  This problem isn't being caused by your grip; and it isn't being caused by my grip, either.  It's a modern, pain in the butt, Glock manufacturing phenomenon; and it has been caused by the Glock factory's use of cheap MIM extractors.  

Extract to the left? The extractor is on the right.

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8 hours ago, Arc Angel said:

I've finally succeeded in keeping 99% of my ejecting brass on the lefthand side of the gun.

You mean right, correct?

 

I have or had 7 or 8 Glocks in 9, 40, and 45 and never had these wild ejection problems. All mine have been Gen 2 or 3. Didn't matter whether flat faced or angled extractors.

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after one poorly extracted case from my g17l gen 2 landed behind me over my head into my wife mouth (she never can't shut up )

i  was forced to sell  it. :o

Edited by yigal

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I was experiencing BTF issues while working up new loads for 34 gen 4 that I recently purchased. Starting on the light charge side, the rounds were basically landing on my strong arm and shoulder. As I increased the charge, the ejected cases starting moving farther in front and to the right side. However, I do not want to unnecessarily increase the charge to address the BTF issues. Other than JimmyZip, has anyone else had success with changing out the extractor? If so , what brands? Thanks in advance!

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