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Cmore accuracy issues; any tips?


jtrump

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8 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said:

Hello: Yes, the adjustment screw puts tension on the plastic so there is no looseness. Unlock the locking screw and turn the adjustment screw one way and then the other. There will be some slack in the adjustment. Take the slack out by either adjusting it up or down putting tension on the plastic. Make sense? Thanks, Eric

 

Makes sense now, will give it a go. 

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39 minutes ago, scooterj said:

When using a bag for a rest, does the slide or comp contact the bag?

 

Negative.  I make certain I'm doing everything as near perfect as possible as far as I know and from previous experiences sighting in optics.  

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11 minutes ago, HI5-O said:

Welcome to the Dark Side :)

 

I'm leaving the dark side Barry, I literally just posted everything for sale. Open isn't for me.     I do appreciate everyone's responses as I don't have a clue how I would have gotten to this point without the knowledge of the people on this forum.

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On ‎10‎/‎19‎/‎2017 at 4:58 PM, jtrump said:

 

Everything is Tighter than Dick's hat band Barry, checked and double checked. :(

On one of my Cmore red dots I had the glass come a little loose, sent in back they fixed it

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  • 2 years later...

Sorry, I know this is an old thread, but I ran into a similar issue.

 

My Cmore/Czechmate decided to stop driving tacks.  I now  have a vertical spread of about 4 inches at 10 yards.  Any ideas?  First shot is dead on.  Then it brackets the original hole by 4 inches high and low.  Horizontal is fine.  Issue manifests from a bag and free standing.      

 

Everything seems tight.    

 

Any ideas? 

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3 hours ago, racer-x said:

Sounds like optics mount is loose on gun allowing vertical movement.

Do you have any kind of thumb rest installed on this opics mount? If so, what is the mounting pattern?

 

I do, yes.  Two big screws at the base, with Loctite.  Two small screws anchor the thumb rest.  Everything seems tight..?  

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Assuming you have 5 screws used to attach mount and thumb rest to frame...

 

For illustration, holes are numbered 1-5 back to front:

Holes 1, 3 & 5 should be short screws attaching optic mount direct to frame.

Holes 2 & 4 are long screws used to attach thumb rest to frame (passing through optic mount).

 

The short screws in position 1, 3 & 5 are the only ones that precisely fix position of optic mount to frame (using countersunk ledge of the screw to center).

The long screws passing through the thumb rest and optic mount would still allow the optic mount to move around without the short screws doing that function.

It's best to A) use 3 short screws and B) use these 3 over the maximum range of the available holes (i.e. position 1,3&5).

 

Here is an example of what I am describing:

No photo description available.

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Different setup than I was thinking. Can't tell if there is a 3rd (optic mount to frame) screw in the middle under the thumb rest?

I am assuming  those two thumb rest screws go into the mount only.

 

My guess is that either the screws into frame are loose, or the thumb rest screw(s) are just a little long and contacting the frame.

 

Thumb rest looks upside down. I would remove all screws, clean threads (screws & holes) thoroughly with 99% alcohol & pieces of paper towel.

 

Temporarily re-attach thumb rest screws to optic mount while it is still off of gun. This is for test-fit to ensure those 2 screws do not protrude past flush on other side of optic mount. That would push optic mount away from frame and be a real problem. If they are protruding, you need to grind them down until they are just under flush.

 

Re-attach everything correctly with loctite and torque all screws down tight. I like to paint tiny witness marks on screws to easily show if they loosen at all.

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12 hours ago, Fo0 said:

is your thumb rest upside down

Haha, yes.  The bolt cuts cross the grooves and seem to help my grip when sweaty.

 

Thanks for the photos.  I usually mark screws on the bikes, just hadn't thought about with the CZ.

 

Racer -X,  I'll take the advice and remount.  It'll be a week or three before I can hit the range, but will follow up.

 

Thanks again for the help. 

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If you are talking about the slide ride, they often crack on the side where the lock screws are. Once that happens, the adjustment screws will turn as you shoot. Mark them with paint to see if that is happening.  If it is, you need you send it back to CMORE to have a new body put on. That is the main reason many people run the aluminum slide ride as it doesn't suffer from that problem..

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Long ago I had the 'block' inside a slide-ride C-more crack and cause accuracy issues, but 49 times out of 50 accuracy loss is due to a loose scope mount.

 

Way back in the day whenever somebody would bring Dawson a gun with scope issues, about the first thing he'd do is push hard on the scope mount to see if it moved.   You can't push with more force than recoil applies.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/14/2020 at 9:06 AM, shred said:

Long ago I had the 'block' inside a slide-ride C-more crack and cause accuracy issues, but 49 times out of 50 accuracy loss is due to a loose scope mount.

 

Way back in the day whenever somebody would bring Dawson a gun with scope issues, about the first thing he'd do is push hard on the scope mount to see if it moved.   You can't push with more force than recoil applies.

Screw backed out.  Locktite and all.  Kinda embarrassed.  Lol.  Thanks all, for the pointers re troubleshooting.  

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