kmanick Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 got it back from Shield (I ordered my M&P 9L with it already on there) and it dies after 3 weeks. they sent me out a new one and I decided to dial it in off of a rest . at 30 feet I was dead on . at 50 feet I got this (ones to the right were me, I'm left handed and yanked them ) at 30 feet I was dead center. So if I zero in at 30 feet should I expect to need to hold lower at longer distances and higher at shorter distances or should I re zero this at 50 and split the difference. I'm using this gun for steel plate competitions so I will be going from 7-10-20 yards regularly depending on the stages that are set up. Something like "Showdown" http://steelchallenge.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/showdown.pdf will require me to make quick adjustments on hold position as I have it set up right now. I'm a total Newb at this so help me out oh wise ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 I'd try a match the way it's set now and see where the hits fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gooldylocks Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Most optics shooters choose to zero between 15 and 25 yards. I like 18 personally, for no real good reason. You will always have to hold a touch high on very close targets, and lower on targets significantly past your zero. HOWEVER. In practice, these holds (assuming a ~20 yard zero) will change by so little as to not make a real difference, especially on a slide ride dot that is extremely low to the bore. With my open gun on very close targets, such as a head box at 2 yards, I will be holding the middle of the B zone above the A. Long range targets, perhaps 3/4 of the way down the A zone. The actual difference in POI is never more than a few inches in even the most extreme cases, which in practical shooting events such as steel or USPSA/IPSC/IDPA etc is not enough to prevent you from hitting the targets. Perhaps on a 30 yard steel and you were holding on the top edge, you would go over the top. That is all I can think of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmanick Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 (edited) thanks gooldylocks, that was the type of info i was looking for, I think I will go back tomorrow and zero in at 40 feet and split the difference. I would zero in at 60 or 70 feet but I tend to start to 'scatter" at that distance, my groups start to spread out so off of a rest I'd be great , freehand I'd probably still be all over the place. Maybe I'll try it out longer tomorrow as well, my clubs pistol range goes to 100 feet. Zeroing in at 60 feet and being able to shoot good groups at that range is a goal of mine anyway. right now 40-50 feet is the furthest I've been able to shoot tight groups at with any consistency Edited October 7, 2017 by kmanick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gooldylocks Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 thanks gooldylocks, that was the type of info i was looking for, I think I will go back tomorrow and zero in at 40 feet and split the difference. [emoji4] I would zero in at 60 or 70 feet but I tend to start to 'scatter" at that distance, my groups start to spread out so off of a rest I'd be great , freehand I'd probably still be all over the place. [emoji20] Maybe I'll try it out longer tomorrow as well, my clubs pistol range goes to 100 feet. Zeroing in at 60 feet and being able to shoot good groups at that range is a goal of mine anyway. right now 4-50 feet is the furthest I've been able to shoot tight groups at with any consistency40 feet still isn't very far, you would be better off at 60 I think. Additionally, I would tell you to always zero off of a rest of some kind. It is the only way to be positive that your gun is truly zeroed. Group shooting is all about the trigger press, take your time to do it right and get a good zero. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 4 hours ago, kmanick said: I'm using this gun for steel plates from 7-10-20 yards If I were going to shoot at 20 yards, I'd sight it in for 20 yards, and know where the bullets hit at 7, 15 and 25 yards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmanick Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 9 hours ago, Gooldylocks said: 40 feet still isn't very far, you would be better off at 60 I think. Additionally, I would tell you to always zero off of a rest of some kind. It is the only way to be positive that your gun is truly zeroed. Group shooting is all about the trigger press, take your time to do it right and get a good zero. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk thanks , I am using a rest to zero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmanick Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 (edited) Zero-ed at 35 feet today /12 yards and then had a go at it free hand. I think I will move out 5 feet "per session" so my trigger pull is consistent out to 75 feet. pretty good day , focused on finding the 'reset" so i didn't need a full trigger pull. Once I got that I was pretty much spot on for a few mags. Getting better with every outing....really liking this M&P now. Now to get into another Steel plate comp and see how this translates to moving from target to target. Edited October 8, 2017 by kmanick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelix Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 (edited) Nice. I start practice at one target at 18 yds and another at 15yds. And then move them in and end up a 7-10yds. Edited October 8, 2017 by Steelix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GetAwayDriva Posted December 24, 2017 Share Posted December 24, 2017 What do you the no about the shield? Is it a decent optic? Are you happy with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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