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rowdyb

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4 minutes ago, rowdyb said:

My feed lips were jacked in my opinion. 94 in the rear and 85 in the front, like they did it right but backwards. I'm done with their CS department, that's why I've turned here to make them work. I do like the look and feel of the basepad and I might, might, try them on regular sti tubes building my own mags.

 

The customer service was good to me in terms of offering to replace/exchange. But I don't think you'll get a truly in spec mag out of the deal.

 

I ended up making my own $15 tuning kit to adjust my mags.

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Just now, IsaacB said:

 

The customer service was good to me in terms of offering to replace/exchange. But I don't think you'll get a truly in spec mag out of the deal.

 

I ended up making my own $15 tuning kit to adjust my mags.

yep, why should i pay a restocking fee and a shipping fee for their mistake? I'll make them work and end up making them dry fire only mags or spares or "local match only" mags.

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I think this is a nice reminder that it backs up Adam's assertion that the mags are the weak link in the gun/mag/ammo system that makes everything work well in shooting a 2011 in competition.

 

I have what I feel is an awesome gun. Check. I make pretty good ammo to appropriate specs. Check. Now to get mags that fit the gauge no matter what and work 100% and hold 20 rounds of 40.

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13 minutes ago, rowdyb said:

I think this is a nice reminder that it backs up Adam's assertion that the mags are the weak link in the gun/mag/ammo system that makes everything work well in shooting a 2011 in competition.

 

I have what I feel is an awesome gun. Check. I make pretty good ammo to appropriate specs. Check. Now to get mags that fit the gauge no matter what and work 100% and hold 20 rounds of 40.

 

The answer to that is easy. Use MBX mags and enjoy many years of 100% reliable function.

 

I switched from Tuned STI mags over to MBX ones when they first came out. I have been using the same set of MBX mags for several years now and they have HEAVY use but still function 100%. Sure I have fed them a steady diet of fresh springs and followers as needed, but the tubes and base pads are still the same. I have only had to readjust the feed lips back to spec a couple of times after getting trampled or dropped hard on the concrete. The outsides of the tubes and base pads are all scratched and nicked up, but the insides still look brand new.

 

After using the MBX mags for a couple of years I bought another set of MBX mags to have on hand once these initial ones start to screw up. But the initial ones are still functioning reliably so the new ones have been sitting on the shelf for years. Maybe one day the initial ones will eventually give up the ghost, but I don't see that happening any time soon given their proven track record.

 

The biggest variable I see in people having issued with the MBX magazines is trying to use crappy reloaded ammo in them. If you try to use crappy reloaded ammo it doesn't matter what brand of magazine you use, you will have problems.

 

When shooting .40 caliber ammo you MUST push though size all the brass before reloading it, then case gauge every single round after its loaded. The people who have congenital "Magazine Problems" are the same ones who refuse to push through size or case gauge their ammo.

 

Beyond that you need to find the optimal OAL that works best for YOUR gun and magazines. Every barrel is slightly different in the depth and angle of the feed ramp. Every brand of magazine holds the top round at a slightly different height. These two variables combined require that the OAL of the ammo be tuned properly. The best way to verify if the OAL is the correct length is to observe where the tip of the bullet hits the feed ramp when you shoot. The best way to verify this is to use a sharpie marker and black out the feed ramp. Then load up a magazine to full capacity and shoot it at a normal competition speed until its empty. Remove the barrel and observe where on the feed ramp the sharpy marking is scuffed off. If the OAL is correct the scuff marking will be at half way up to three quarters up from the bottom of the ramp. If the scuff mark is lower, the OAL is too short. If the scuff mark is higher, then the OAL is too long. If the scuff marks are random all over the feed ramp, then the ammo is inconsistently made or the feed lips are not within spec.

 

6 Basic steps to reliable 2011 Magazine feeding.....

Step 1 - Use MBX mags

Step 2 - Push Through size all of the .40 brass before reloading it

Step 3 - Case Gauge all of the ammo after loading it

Step 4 - Tune the OAL properly to hit 1/2 to 3/4 up front the bottom of the barrel feed ramp

Step 5 - Keep an eye on the springs and followers and replace them BEFORE they start causing problems

Step 6 - Enjoy hundreds of thousands of rounds with reliable feeding

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Some shooters spend a lot of time cleaning and fiddling on their gun then try to feed it any random ammo they have laying around.

 

Others spend many hours reloading high quality ammo and then make sure their gun and mags are maintained properly.

 

One of these groups has reoccurring "Magazine" or "Gun" functionality issues and the other does not. I will let you take a guess at which one is which.

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The answer to that is easy. Use MBX mags and enjoy many years of 100% reliable function.
 
I switched from Tuned STI mags over to MBX ones when they first came out. I have been using the same set of MBX mags for several years now and they have HEAVY use but still function 100%. Sure I have fed them a steady diet of fresh springs and followers as needed, but the tubes and base pads are still the same. I have only had to readjust the feed lips back to spec a couple of times after getting trampled or dropped hard on the concrete. The outsides of the tubes and base pads are all scratched and nicked up, but the insides still look brand new.
 
After using the MBX mags for a couple of years I bought another set of MBX mags to have on hand once these initial ones start to screw up. But the initial ones are still functioning reliably so the new ones have been sitting on the shelf for years. Maybe one day the initial ones will eventually give up the ghost, but I don't see that happening any time soon given their proven track record.
 
The biggest variable I see in people having issued with the MBX magazines is trying to use crappy reloaded ammo in them. If you try to use crappy reloaded ammo it doesn't matter what brand of magazine you use, you will have problems.
 
When shooting .40 caliber ammo you MUST push though size all the brass before reloading it, then case gauge every single round after its loaded. The people who have congenital "Magazine Problems" are the same ones who refuse to push through size or case gauge their ammo.
 
Beyond that you need to find the optimal OAL that works best for YOUR gun and magazines. Every barrel is slightly different in the depth and angle of the feed ramp. Every brand of magazine holds the top round at a slightly different height. These two variables combined require that the OAL of the ammo be tuned properly. The best way to verify if the OAL is the correct length is to observe where the tip of the bullet hits the feed ramp when you shoot. The best way to verify this is to use a sharpie marker and black out the feed ramp. Then load up a magazine to full capacity and shoot it at a normal competition speed until its empty. Remove the barrel and observe where on the feed ramp the sharpy marking is scuffed off. If the OAL is correct the scuff marking will be at half way up to three quarters up from the bottom of the ramp. If the scuff mark is lower, the OAL is too short. If the scuff mark is higher, then the OAL is too long. If the scuff marks are random all over the feed ramp, then the ammo is inconsistently made or the feed lips are not within spec.
 
6 Basic steps to reliable 2011 Magazine feeding.....
Step 1 - Use MBX mags
Step 2 - Push Through size all of the .40 brass before reloading it
Step 3 - Case Gauge all of the ammo after loading it
Step 4 - Tune the OAL properly to hit 1/2 to 3/4 up front the bottom of the barrel feed ramp
Step 5 - Keep an eye on the springs and followers and replace them BEFORE they start causing problems
Step 6 - Enjoy hundreds of thousands of rounds with reliable feeding
Best post I've seen in a long time, thank you from a 2011 noob

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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28 minutes ago, CHA-LEE said:

Step 1 - Use MBX mags

I have two of them already and they're the ones that see use.  So yeah, I feel ya. If the return policy was better to TTI I'd have 4 mbx mags right now.

 

I am using a U die and a case gauge and good bullets and following the gun builder's initial advice for ammo.

 

As soon as the gun is back from the holster maker and I start to shoot it a bunch, we'll see how well I can follow your advisement.

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I've been loading 40 minor and major for years, both for a CZ TS and two 2011s.  I have a slightly different takes than some of the advice offered above.

 

Mags first.  I have MBX mags, including a big stick.  I have SVI gen1 mags.  Some have TTI followers, springs and base plates.  Some have Grams followers, springs and basepads.  Some have Grams guts and Dawson pads.  I have STI mags that have been tuned to the hilt.  The have Grams guts and either Dawson or Grams base pads.

 

All of them work in both my 2011s, but only as they are currently set up.  I experimented with changing the components around, and had some issues.  So what do I use in a match?  Always the MBX mags, because they are the best of the lot, and there are zero issues.  I  use two of the SVI mags with Dawson base pads for classifiers, because I learned the hard way that you DO NOT WANT to drop an almost full MBX mag on a mandatory reload.  If it falls straight down the spring depresses under the weight of the bullets and it springs back up with the top bullet cockeyed and jammed. You have to be VERY careful extracting it or you widen the feed lips.  Best to disassemble the whole mag and take everything out the bottom.  I don't care what happens to the SVI mags.  I use the other mags for dry fire and keep some with my backup gun.  I really should sell all but the two 'classifier' and buy more MBX mags.

 

U dies and push through.  I don't use them.  I had enormous problems with Glocked brass with Dillon dies.  When I switched to Hornady dies and a Lee Factory Carbide crimp dies, my problems disappeared.   I drop all my rounds into a 100 round Shockbottle case gauge.  If the rounds don't drop below the surface when the gauge is raised, they go into the practice bin.  I get 1-3 out of 100 where the rim stands just proud of flush.  These chamber 100% in both 2011s, but I won't use them in a match, just in case.  So I think it a good alternative to a push thru die, especially since most of my loads get fired and left on the ground.  I just would not have the patience to push through 10,000+ cases a season.

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1 hour ago, CHA-LEE said:

 

The answer to that is easy. Use MBX mags and enjoy many years of 100% reliable function.

 

I switched from Tuned STI mags over to MBX ones when they first came out. I have been using the same set of MBX mags for several years now and they have HEAVY use but still function 100%. Sure I have fed them a steady diet of fresh springs and followers as needed, but the tubes and base pads are still the same. I have only had to readjust the feed lips back to spec a couple of times after getting trampled or dropped hard on the concrete. The outsides of the tubes and base pads are all scratched and nicked up, but the insides still look brand new.

 

After using the MBX mags for a couple of years I bought another set of MBX mags to have on hand once these initial ones start to screw up. But the initial ones are still functioning reliably so the new ones have been sitting on the shelf for years. Maybe one day the initial ones will eventually give up the ghost, but I don't see that happening any time soon given their proven track record.

 

The biggest variable I see in people having issued with the MBX magazines is trying to use crappy reloaded ammo in them. If you try to use crappy reloaded ammo it doesn't matter what brand of magazine you use, you will have problems.

 

When shooting .40 caliber ammo you MUST push though size all the brass before reloading it, then case gauge every single round after its loaded. The people who have congenital "Magazine Problems" are the same ones who refuse to push through size or case gauge their ammo.

 

Beyond that you need to find the optimal OAL that works best for YOUR gun and magazines. Every barrel is slightly different in the depth and angle of the feed ramp. Every brand of magazine holds the top round at a slightly different height. These two variables combined require that the OAL of the ammo be tuned properly. The best way to verify if the OAL is the correct length is to observe where the tip of the bullet hits the feed ramp when you shoot. The best way to verify this is to use a sharpie marker and black out the feed ramp. Then load up a magazine to full capacity and shoot it at a normal competition speed until its empty. Remove the barrel and observe where on the feed ramp the sharpy marking is scuffed off. If the OAL is correct the scuff marking will be at half way up to three quarters up from the bottom of the ramp. If the scuff mark is lower, the OAL is too short. If the scuff mark is higher, then the OAL is too long. If the scuff marks are random all over the feed ramp, then the ammo is inconsistently made or the feed lips are not within spec.

 

6 Basic steps to reliable 2011 Magazine feeding.....

Step 1 - Use MBX mags

Step 2 - Push Through size all of the .40 brass before reloading it

Step 3 - Case Gauge all of the ammo after loading it

Step 4 - Tune the OAL properly to hit 1/2 to 3/4 up front the bottom of the barrel feed ramp

Step 5 - Keep an eye on the springs and followers and replace them BEFORE they start causing problems

Step 6 - Enjoy hundreds of thousands of rounds with reliable feeding

I have to strongly disagree with this.  MBX magazines are in no way the number one solution to a feeding problem in a 2011.  Step 2 through 6 are more important than MBX mags.  My MBX mags were the first generation and they immediately had problems. Infrequent as they were I chalked it up to the ammo.  I then looked deeper into my ammo specs and case gauged everything through a gauge  which was tighter than my gun.  I even bought the dawson kit and checked every spec there was to check.  Still had problems.  New springs... still problems.  This was over about 2 years of messing around.  I then switched my whole mag set up to SVI tubes with grams springs and followers and the thing runs like a top again. Some are lucky and they run flawless or at least think they do  to the point that they just think its a dirty gun or a bad round.  To me the fact that they keep changing the design of the tube and followers is enough for me to believe that it isn't perfect.  I was a MBX fan boy but have converted and will never look back.  Bottom line, dig deep and you will find they aren't the reference standard everyone wants you to think they are.  

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1 hour ago, CHA-LEE said:

 

The answer to that is easy. Use MBX mags and enjoy many years of 100% reliable function.

 

I switched from Tuned STI mags over to MBX ones when they first came out. I have been using the same set of MBX mags for several years now and they have HEAVY use but still function 100%. Sure I have fed them a steady diet of fresh springs and followers as needed, but the tubes and base pads are still the same. I have only had to readjust the feed lips back to spec a couple of times after getting trampled or dropped hard on the concrete. The outsides of the tubes and base pads are all scratched and nicked up, but the insides still look brand new.

 

After using the MBX mags for a couple of years I bought another set of MBX mags to have on hand once these initial ones start to screw up. But the initial ones are still functioning reliably so the new ones have been sitting on the shelf for years. Maybe one day the initial ones will eventually give up the ghost, but I don't see that happening any time soon given their proven track record.

 

The biggest variable I see in people having issued with the MBX magazines is trying to use crappy reloaded ammo in them. If you try to use crappy reloaded ammo it doesn't matter what brand of magazine you use, you will have problems.

 

When shooting .40 caliber ammo you MUST push though size all the brass before reloading it, then case gauge every single round after its loaded. The people who have congenital "Magazine Problems" are the same ones who refuse to push through size or case gauge their ammo.

 

Beyond that you need to find the optimal OAL that works best for YOUR gun and magazines. Every barrel is slightly different in the depth and angle of the feed ramp. Every brand of magazine holds the top round at a slightly different height. These two variables combined require that the OAL of the ammo be tuned properly. The best way to verify if the OAL is the correct length is to observe where the tip of the bullet hits the feed ramp when you shoot. The best way to verify this is to use a sharpie marker and black out the feed ramp. Then load up a magazine to full capacity and shoot it at a normal competition speed until its empty. Remove the barrel and observe where on the feed ramp the sharpy marking is scuffed off. If the OAL is correct the scuff marking will be at half way up to three quarters up from the bottom of the ramp. If the scuff mark is lower, the OAL is too short. If the scuff mark is higher, then the OAL is too long. If the scuff marks are random all over the feed ramp, then the ammo is inconsistently made or the feed lips are not within spec.

 

6 Basic steps to reliable 2011 Magazine feeding.....

Step 1 - Use MBX mags

Step 2 - Push Through size all of the .40 brass before reloading it

Step 3 - Case Gauge all of the ammo after loading it

Step 4 - Tune the OAL properly to hit 1/2 to 3/4 up front the bottom of the barrel feed ramp

Step 5 - Keep an eye on the springs and followers and replace them BEFORE they start causing problems

Step 6 - Enjoy hundreds of thousands of rounds with reliable feeding

How long has MBX been around? I don't think it's been "several" years.

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48 minutes ago, Sarge said:

How long has MBX been around? I don't think it's been "several" years.

I would say at least 2 and probably a little longer.  Ill try to look back at my shooters connection orders to see when I first ordered them.

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Its probably been about two years.  On  2/22/16 I ordered 4 complete magazines and 3/3/16 1 mag and 3/26/16 1 more mag.  Guys at my club had them months before me so its been close to several years.  The two mags I ordered in march are different tube designs.  So in a month they were shipping different style tubes.  Doesn't inspire confidence in my eyes.  I had confidence for a while but its faded recently.

Edited by Edge40
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9 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

@MissionaryMike I think you got me mixed up with @rowdyb. I'm still primarily a production shooter rocking the Walther Q5 now, although I am currently dabbling in Carry Optics just because a gun with a dot sounds fun for the next few matches.

cool on the new gun and division dabbling!

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9 hours ago, MissionaryMike said:

 

My apologies to you both.  Yes, I meant @rowdyb.  However, your contributions have also been very helpful, @MemphisMechanic.

 

My error allowed me to thank the two of you.  

 

 

no worries! he contributes all over as well. i can still contribute a little about shooting in general and my cz knowledge didn't just fall out of my head haha.

 

i got a new gun and am shooting a new division. so some of my personal goals have changed, for sure.

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On 9/11/2017 at 5:27 PM, zzt said:

rowdy, why not just buy a race holster and be done with it.  The DAA Alpha-X is terrific and a HUGE improvement over kydex. 

 

how much faster is your draw with a race holster?

 

(and how many times have you dq'd or farged up a stage because of unlocked/locked mistakes?)

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On 9/12/2017 at 9:43 PM, Foxj66 said:

Don't worry about a race holster, I went to a boss set up from a race holster, outside of open a race holster isn't needed.

 

 

 

Or if you're cool like me and run a *thumb rest [generic]* on a limited gun!  But you're right, I go back and forth and can do draws just as fast out of my Bladetech I use for 3-gun.  I like the draw stroke of the race holsters lightly better which allows me to start driving the gun towards target slightly earlier since I don't have to clear the top of the holster.

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1 hour ago, motosapiens said:

 

how much faster is your draw with a race holster?

 

(and how many times have you dq'd or farged up a stage because of unlocked/locked mistakes?)

 

0.1~0.2 seconds.  Never been DQ'd for any draw/holster/etc related action.  I would use a race holster even if it were not faster, simply because you have much finer adjustment and can position the holster/gun exactly where you want it.  I did not find that to be the case with the BOSS/Kydex setup.

 

In the second match after I switched to race, I forgot to unlock for a classifier and cost myself two seconds or so.  Never had a problem since.  I can draw from locked or unlocked with equal ease.  I've only used DAA RaceMaster holsters (two versions) so I don't know if that would be the case with other holsters.

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3 hours ago, bluedevil008 said:

 

Or if you're cool like me and run a *thumb rest [generic]* on a limited gun!  But you're right, I go back and forth and can do draws just as fast out of my Bladetech I use for 3-gun.  I like the draw stroke of the race holsters lightly better which allows me to start driving the gun towards target slightly earlier since I don't have to clear the top of the holster.

 

The biggest problem I see with the thumb rest is with the B and C class guys that shove them on and then end up pushing the muzzle around. I just don't see much if any advantage to them and a lot of disadvantages 

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