Primers keep sticking in primer tip on 1050

[GunslingerDK]

I am about to loose my mind. I have been having this problem lately. It is a known problem, but usually a sign that the blue tip simply needs changing. I am having the problem constantly even with new tips. I can hardly load 20 rounds between occurrences. When removing the delrin triangle holding the brass in place, I can clearly see what is happening. The moment the primer slide starts moving, no 2 primer in the tube moves forward with the slide and then being caught between the jaws of the blue tip, preventing new primers from being fed. I've been tinkering with this sh*t for days. 

 

I have the following parts on hand:

• 2 complete primer assemblies
• 3 different primer slides: 1 with brass roller,  1 with a rubber bushing and one without anything.
• A variety of blue tips. I have made sure they are perfect without dings, mold flashes etc.

 

I have tried every conceivable combination of the parts above to no avail.

 

I have tried the usual fixes as per earlier threads:

• Primer slide is polished
• Edge of hole in slide is polished to facilitate easier entry of the primer into the slide.
• primer tube retaining nut is not tight
• Machine clean (of course)

 

Besides this I have tried:

• Putting shims on the primer slide stop on either sides to manipulate the final position of the slide
• Putting shims under the entire assembly to increase the distance from the blue tip to the slide
• I have changed every part and spring in that area of the machine
• Using the inner primer tube (with the brass tip) from my 650. I bended the actuating arm 3 times within 1000 rounds so I gave up on that

 

I simply cannot understand what is causing this problem. I have loaded over 250.000 rounds on this machine and have been able to solve most of the problems I have encountered during the years. Many of which I found solutions for on this board. The machine is run by a Mark 7 and I am using a FFB plate, not that any of that matters really. I am using Winchester primers. 

 

Any suggestions?

[oteroman]

What did Dillon suggest?

[GunslingerDK]

Nothing that I hadn't tried many times. 

[camaross400]

I had the same problem three weeks ago. I replaced the blue tip from the spare parts kit and have not had a problem since. I have run another 500 through it without a problem. When I looked closely after taking it off, it was a little bent which probably caused the problem.


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[RiggerJJ]

Try a different primer

[GringoBandito]

Are you using the right sized feeding tube and blue tip? SPP vs LPP? 

 

 

Edited August 26, 2017 by GringoBandito

[jtrump]

God it's aggravating when the press isn't running right...  got that T-shirt.   Let me sit here for a moment and think about exactly what might help you.

[GunslingerDK]

8 hours ago, GringoBandito said:

Are you using the right sized feeding tube and blue tip? SPP vs LPP? 

 

 

 

Yes. I have load anything other than stuff that uses small primers.

[GunslingerDK]

8 hours ago, jtrump said:

God it's aggravating when the press isn't running right...  got that T-shirt.   Let me sit here for a moment and think about exactly what might help you.

 

Thank you :).

 

What annoys me the most is, that the 5 years I have had the machine, a worn tip used to be the only reason for this problem. Now I can change the tip, and load 10 rounds then it happens...

[jtrump]

I was able to re-create this after trying a different primer.    I usually exclusively use Federal primers, or match primers.   It happened to me 2x in a row trying some remengton primers, and then again even with Winchester primers.

[JD1]

Once in a blue moon I have found sometimes that a bit of the primer will be taller or shorter than normal, and the primer above it will be snagged and pulled forward some or all the way towards the shell plate. I notice when loading  tubes that sometimes the collective height in the tubes may vary and when it does I closely inspect them. It does not happen often but when it does the whole box of a 1,000 will possibly be effected. Changing to new tips didn't help. Sometimes lightening the weight of the stack from above, either removing the extra 230 grain weight I have on top of my hold down rod or cutting the stack count in half, has gotten me thru the box of difficult primers. Along with slowing my Mark 7 from 2400 to 2100 or even 1800 for the duration of the box. Good luck.

[Hi-Power Jack]

Every time I have had the same problem, with my SDB, it is resolved by simply changing the tip,

as you mentioned.

 

Sounds like it has to be another part in your press which is cracked or not aligned properly ...

 

Be interested in what Dillon has to offer on Monday morning.

 

Good luck with it - totally useless if the primers don't feed     

[Click]

I had this happen last year on a 550 and the set screw in the primer bar which holds the spring loaded primer cup was loose.


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[yoshidaex]

primer residue in the tube?

[RayBar]

Is the knurled nut which sits on top of the primer magazine too tight? 

 

All the primer issues I've ever had on my 1050 has been worn primer magazine orifices or tight a knurled nut. 

[DWFAN]

Do you have a weight on the top of the primer follower rod?

[dillon]

Cut a small cloth patch, about 3/8" x 3/8", wet it with alcohol, then push it through the magazine tube several times using the plastic follower rod. Then drop a primer through the tube to make sure it freely slides out. Next, replace the primer punch return spring. These collapse after a lot of use, and the punch fails to retract all the way, so then the primer slide slams rearward, which can result in flipping a primer in the tip.

[AWLAZS]

10 hours ago, dillon said:

Cut a small cloth patch, about 3/8" x 3/8", wet it with alcohol, then push it through the magazine tube several times using the plastic follower rod. Then drop a primer through the tube to make sure it freely slides out. Next, replace the primer punch return spring. These collapse after a lot of use, and the punch fails to retract all the way, so then the primer slide slams rearward, which can result in flipping a primer in the tip.

just use a q tip

[GunslingerDK]

I usually do use a qtip to clean both the inner primer tube on the machine as well as the tube of the primer filler.

 

I fixed the problem by putting a small piece of electrical tape on the jaws of the tip. My thought was that if I could mechanically prevent the primer from getting stuck between the jaws the problem would be solved. Of course the underlying issue is that sometimes primer no.2 is dragged forward with the slide. Could be they are a little out of spec, I don't know. Now the tape prevents it from being stuck into the tip.

 

I don't know if Dillon makes the tips in-house or they are sourced from elsewhere. If the composition of the plastic used has changed making the material softer, this would most likely be the result.

[dillon]

The plastic used to mold the tips hasn't changed in several years. The reason we put the T-slot into the plastic tip is so that if there is some misadjustment to the priming system, an errant primer can escape without being crushed, and then setting off all of its upstairs neighbors. There is a set screw in the base located just below the flat leaf spring that pushes the primer retaining pin in. This screw acts as the stop for rearward travel of the primer slide, and aligns the primer cup under the primer. You might tweak this set screw in or out 1/4 to 1/2 turn (at maximum ) to improve the alignment. If you have an empty primer magazine, shine a light at the opening in the bottom of the primer feed, look down through the empty magazine tube, and pull the primer slide rearward. When it stops, it should be very slightly past being centered under the magazine . The primer does not drop straight down into the cup, it rocks into place. Therefore the cup needs to travel very slightly past being centered.

[J_W_HELMS]

On 8/31/2017 at 11:13 AM, dillon said:

The plastic used to mold the tips hasn't changed in several years. The reason we put the T-slot into the plastic tip is so that if there is some misadjustment to the priming system, an errant primer can escape without being crushed, and then setting off all of its upstairs neighbors. There is a set screw in the base located just below the flat leaf spring that pushes the primer retaining pin in. This screw acts as the stop for rearward travel of the primer slide, and aligns the primer cup under the primer. You might tweak this set screw in or out 1/4 to 1/2 turn (at maximum ) to improve the alignment. If you have an empty primer magazine, shine a light at the opening in the bottom of the primer feed, look down through the empty magazine tube, and pull the primer slide rearward. When it stops, it should be very slightly past being centered under the magazine . The primer does not drop straight down into the cup, it rocks into place. Therefore the cup needs to travel very slightly past being centered.

I realize this is now an older thread, but no responses after Dillon's instruction leads me to believe that the issues that GunslingerDK was having must have been resolved. Nice that Dillon posts detailed instructions here on this forum to assist their customers, as well as others that search through here for answers.

Nice work, Dillon and a big thumb up! Keep up the good work guys.

[hgr2]

 Confusing, the thread started about a 1050 priming issue and ended up being about a 550 priming issue. Hope both are running now.

[Frank34]

I am having the exact same problem.  Just passed the 50K mark on my press and the priming system has gone to hell.  Never had any problems before this started to happen.  

 

I have replaced the blue tip several times and primers keep getting stuck and falling out the bottom of the press leaving me with unprimed rounds.  If I tap the primer follower rod I can advance the primers and get priming going for a while but it will jam up again.  

 

I called Dillon today and was told to replace the blue tip.  I have cleaned the press, replaced the primer punch return spring, took the actuator arm assembly off of my other 1050, polished the primer hole in the slide to make sure there were no burrs, verified that the primer hole in the slide is centered in the magazine tube, cleaned the magazine tube, and I can not get this press to prime consistently.   I asked the guy at Dillon if he thought if the brass roller on the primer slide could wear down but he didn't think so.  

 

Tonight I put the primer magazine tube from my 650, the one with the brass tip, in my press and loaded 250 rounds without a problem.  I just don't know how safe it is to run the press like that.  

 

So it appears that the OP got his press fixed but I can't figure out how he did it.  I have used Winchester primers in the machine since it was new.  Does anybody have any ideas I could try.

[jim m]

Had similar problem,  put weight on the primer rod, problem went away.  I used a empty 45acp case and a 230 grn lead bullet.  reamed the empty pocket so it fit on the rod. 

 

[J_W_HELMS]

Frank34,

 

Per notes that I have from previous conversation with a Dillon long time employee:

 

"**Clean and polish the primer slide track with a flat blade screwdriver using a patch of Scotch-Brite pad. (not sure about lubrication, but I think it gets something?)

 

**Clean the “tube” (part #12995 – more specifically) and the hole that it slides up and down in of the primer rocker closest to the operator end of that part. It tends to get debris in it over time, and can cause it to stick in the down position and not allow the primer slide to retract!! If this happens, after the down-stroke is made and you start lifting the handle to complete the upstroke it locks up the primer slide and the whole press suddenly stops, then you are down until you disassemble and clean the primer system assembly ---- or worse yet, something bends or breaks!

 

**If the primer magazine plastic tip starts requiring frequent changing, it may be that the primer slide is no longer stopping just past center of the primer drop to the rear, but is in fact going too far rearward past center and may require a shim about the thickness of a business card (described as the addition of a washer between the “lower plate screw” #13995 and the “primer slide stop” #13108 to get it to stop at the perfect position) The description of where the slide should normally stop is just slightly REAR of center in rearmost position, not centered and not too far back."

 

I think that if I were you, I would look hard at the last paragraph. Hopefully this will help you too. Alignment of that slide is critical, per the guy at Dillon that I spoke with. The hole in the slide must go just past center to make the primer sort of "rock" into place as it drops, but it cannot go too far back either. I can't forget the guys' name that gave me that tip, but he had been there at Dillon for decades and knows his stuff!

 

Let me know how it goes. I hope these notes make sense to you............   John