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Opinions on Trigger Parts


mgarro385

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Hello all

 

Got into competitive shooting this year. I like 3 gun the most but do shoot USPSA sometimes. I shoot a Glock 17 Gen 4. I bought it used and it's got a ZEV V4 connector and 6# reset spring. 

 

After doing some research, it looks like there's some other stuff that'll help the trigger out. I was looking at getting these parts from ZEV:

 

Lightweight striker

2# striker spring 

Lightweight firing pin safety & spring

 

2 questions

1. Are these worth buying to improve the trigger?

2. Am I gonna have reliability issues? I only shoot Wolf steel ammo. From what I can gather, the extended lightweight striker should alleviate this issue. 

 

Thanks for any and all advice! 

 

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I've broken lightweight extended strikers. I still use them but don't buy new ones.  

 

Trigger return srping should be left stock. Heavier ones make the reset suffer. 

 

Here's my recommendation. Polish stock parts, get the connector of choice and then get 4# or 4.5# striker, you'll probably want 4.5#. Get a reduced power saftey block spring. Get a 11# recoil spring. 

 

Then, the key to success is dry fire.  

 

 

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I wouldn't go lower than 4.5lb for the striker spring.

4lb had occasional issues with Tula. And caused me to be far more attentive to seating primers when reloading.

Bigger concern for me is 4lb and under wouldn't consistently reset the trigger to the point the trigger safety engaged once the spring took a set, lot of people seem to make them work, I've had two guns and small pile of springs do the same thing.

 

Never tried a lightened or extended striker. I do use the heavier trigger spring reset still very distinct. I polished everything, don't forget the slide stop/lock/release lever where it rubs the trigger shoe, mine had a nice fat burr gouging the shoe, actually pretty much every contact edge in mine looked like it was stamped out with worn dies and had terribly jagged edges and required some stoning.

 

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Loose the 6 lb trigger return spring.  If you go to a 4 lb striker spring the only aftermarket striker I would recommend is the IDP.  I had 2 other lightened strikers break after only a few thousand rounds.  I have about 15000 on my IDP so far and still going strong.

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24 minutes ago, rooster said:

Loose the 6 lb trigger return spring.  If you go to a 4 lb striker spring the only aftermarket striker I would recommend is the IDP.  I had 2 other lightened strikers break after only a few thousand rounds.  I have about 15000 on my IDP so far and still going strong.

You think I'll have light strike issues with this setup shooting wolf?

47 minutes ago, Beef15 said:

I wouldn't go lower than 4.5lb for the striker spring.

4lb had occasional issues with Tula. And caused me to be far more attentive to seating primers when reloading.

Bigger concern for me is 4lb and under wouldn't consistently reset the trigger to the point the trigger safety engaged once the spring took a set, lot of people seem to make them work, I've had two guns and small pile of springs do the same thing.

 

Never tried a lightened or extended striker. I do use the heavier trigger spring reset still very distinct. I polished everything, don't forget the slide stop/lock/release lever where it rubs the trigger shoe, mine had a nice fat burr gouging the shoe, actually pretty much every contact edge in mine looked like it was stamped out with worn dies and had terribly jagged edges and required some stoning.

 

Is there a 4.5# striker spring you can recommend? 

 

2 hours ago, B_RAD said:

I've broken lightweight extended strikers. I still use them but don't buy new ones.  

 

Trigger return srping should be left stock. Heavier ones make the reset suffer. 

 

Here's my recommendation. Polish stock parts, get the connector of choice and then get 4# or 4.5# striker, you'll probably want 4.5#. Get a reduced power saftey block spring. Get a 11# recoil spring. 

 

Then, the key to success is dry fire.  

 

 

Is there a recoil spring you would recommend? And yes, I started dry practicing a month ago and I've noticed a lot of improvement :)

 

Thanks in advance guys! 

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1 hour ago, rooster said:

The best striker springs are Wolff.  A  4.5 spring with a stock trigger spring should set off any primer.  A 13 lb recoil spring should hook you up pretty nice.

So I should ditch the 6# reset spring for the OEM? I guess I'm clueless, but how does that spring assist with the strike? 

 

Thanks 

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I use all wolf springs.  

 

ISMI are good too. 

 

On recoil springs, I believe the only job it really serves is to return the slide to battery, which includes stripping a new round out of the mag. Too heavy and some say it'll make your gun nose dive.  

 

I prefer 11#.  

Edited by B_RAD
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6 minutes ago, mgarro385 said:

So I should ditch the 6# reset spring for the OEM? I guess I'm clueless, but how does that spring assist with the strike? 

 

Thanks 

Put the stock one back in and you should notice the reset is more forceful/positive. I prefer that over the slight reduction in pull weight the 6# spring gives.  

 

 

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The two best Glock shooters ever have some of the least worked over triggers.  Vogel and Sevigney (yes I know he shoots FN now).  Get it smooth, get it lighter if you like, make sure it's reliable and then pull it straight back 30,000 times a year!( I'd use a snap cap.)

 

Now, I wouldn't say buying an aftermarket from Vannek or DK (I've heard good things about theirs) would be a waste.  It's not needed. 

Edited by B_RAD
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I've switched springs in almost every conceivable combination on multiple 4th gens, here is what I came up with:

 

-I like the 6lb return spring but it reduces the reset 'click'. It's a non issue for me.

-I have run 4.5lb striker springs but have started to go back to 5lb. The 4.5lb feels better but if my reloads aren't perfect I get light strikes. This is particularly a problem with cheap mixed range brass. Slightly high primers are the cause. Factory ammo runs perfect (I don't run Tulla).

-Polish all the internals or buy an aftermarket trigger group. I can get very similar results with just a connector. The over travel stop is the exception. 

-A lighter FPS spring and polishing the FPS plunger helps at the initial take up.

-Pick the recoil spring that feels best to you but be mindful that if you go too light the striker spring can pull the slide out of battery when you squeeze the trigger. I think I'm running a 13lb.

 

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As what has already been said, consider ditching the 6lb trigger return spring for the stock one. 

I understand that there may also be a possibility of the slide going out of battery with a very light striker spring and strong trigger return spring?

 

-I get it, we've all been there...  whether you know it or not, you're likely very interested in a lightened striker and already made the subconscious decision to try it.  Advice: if you run with one of those, do NOT run a stock striker spring, you will likely break it.  Between all of us in our club, we have broken every striker out there, except the IDP.

-I personally have not done exhaustive testing to believe that a lightened striker makes a difference in relieving light strikes.  Maybe I will get back to that project after the season ends.

-You have probably already made the decision to run the lightest striker spring available.  No foul in that, my suggestion is if you buy the Zev 2lb, then do yourself a favour and buy the Wolff 4lb & 4.5lb. also to save shipping.  It would suck to pay shipping when you realize that you (most likely) get light strikes which is likely with Wolff ammo.

-If you buy the 2lb Zev spring, and really want to use it, you will likely need some sort of extended striker, like the Zev.  Sample set is only 1 shooter in my club who went this route and had to buy it to solve his light strike problems.  HOWEVER he was not using Wolff ammo so I cannot predict what will happen in your case.

Or just gradually go up in spring weights until you are satisfied with reliability.

Edited by Sniperboy
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On 8/24/2017 at 11:38 AM, mgarro385 said:

So I should ditch the 6# reset spring for the OEM? I guess I'm clueless, but how does that spring assist with the strike? 

 

Thanks 

 

You should call Johnny Glock and tell him exactly how you want your trigger to feel, reset, wall, poundage, aggressive in nature etc.   In my humble opinion the work is second to none, and reliability will never be an issue.

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2 hours ago, edison said:

My lightning strike titanium striker reliably sets off primers that the zev steel striker couldn't. My trigger pull was 2.6 lbs.

 

Good to know..  I always wondered if the lightened Ti strikers had real merit but never had the opportunity to objectively test it long term.  I have an LS Ti too. 

Thanks for sharing your data.

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I second Johnny Glock.  I have one of his trigger bars and have about 3000 rounds on it and it is flawless.  Check him out on you tube, he gives away a lot of his tricks.  His trigger bar had the best polish job I have ever seen.  He is OCD about glock triggers.  

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4 hours ago, rooster said:

I second Johnny Glock.  I have one of his trigger bars and have about 3000 rounds on it and it is flawless.  Check him out on you tube, he gives away a lot of his tricks.  His trigger bar had the best polish job I have ever seen.  He is OCD about glock triggers.  

 

He's like the mad scientist of glock triggers,   Picture the scene in John Wick 2 where he's at the hotel and he goes to the armory guy for a "tasting",  and they guy walks him through like the full course meal and all different guns haha..   Johnny does that with just the trigger it's nuts.

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Whew,

 

Lots of information. Have not decided on anything yet. Shot a 3 gun match today and was talking to a much more skilled/experienced shooter than I, who used to shoot a Glock. He personally recommended I go the route of the Taran Tactical Grand Master 3.25 lb trigger kit (includes striker spring, connector, safety plunger spring, reset spring), and that if I encounter light strikes, to pick up a lightweight striker. 

 

Anyone here have experience with the Taran kit? How does it compare to using the Wolff springs? I'll look into the Lightning Strike striker.

 

Thanks guys

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I have run the TTI kit in 3 guns and found them to be the best connector/spring kit out there though I chose to leave the TRS stock.  I would say his striker spring was equivalent to a Wolff 4.5lb.  With that spring haven't needed an aftermarket striker with Win primers. 

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I have run his kit and it is really good.  I found the release point really far back in the travel. It's almost like your waiting for the release.  It's a rolling break, extremely smooth from start to finish. There is no perceptible wall.  For the money you can't go wrong.  The best connectors I have found and believe me I have tried most,  Is the minus glock and the lonewolf.

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5 hours ago, NWfront said:

I have run the TTI kit in 3 guns and found them to be the best connector/spring kit out there though I chose to leave the TRS stock.  I would say his striker spring was equivalent to a Wolff 4.5lb.  With that spring haven't needed an aftermarket striker with Win primers. 

 

Sounds good. I think I might go with that kit. General consensus seems to be to use the OEM TRS. Hopefully I don't have light strikes with Wolf ammo. If I do, then I will go for the Lightning Strike Titanium striker. 

 

Do you have experience with the TTI guide rod? I'm looking at getting his with the ISMI 13 lb recoil spring. 

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On this topic, didn't Jaeger use to make an EXTENDED striker?   All I see on the website now is a lightened one.    I had the zev skeletonized  one but it really wasn't all that great.

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5 hours ago, mgarro385 said:

Do you have experience with the TTI guide rod? I'm looking at getting his with the ISMI 13 lb recoil spring. 

 

I would recommend going with a Jager made specifically for a gen 4 with the captured adapter.  I have had them both for flat wire and now the heavy Wolff spring only types.  Much easier to install and has the proper sized base. 

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