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Plate thickness for Steel Challenge?


vinconco

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I'm thinking about setting up a couple stages on my range and I have a few questions concerning the plate thickness.

*  I see that most plates you can buy are 3/8" AR500.   Is there any reason that 1/4" AR500 isn't sufficient.  

*  Is 3/8" required for sanctioned matches?

*  Would putting the plates on a 20 degree angle violate any rules?

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50 minutes ago, Max It said:

HI Ya, i hope you are not in my area; 20 deg off, ouch!

That's what I thought but I read in another forum where someone was trying to do it.

 

My main question is to the thickness of the steel.  It seems that 1/4" would have a better clang....especially AR500

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I have found that 1/4" will begin to bend after being shot for awhile. With mine, I flatten it out about once a season and it's all good but that's on my home range.

3/8" will stand up a lot better. The clang is probably better with 3/8". I also use 1/2" and you get very little clang from that. I go more by calling shots anyway. Waiting for the sound is too slow usually...

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3 hours ago, Dr. Phil said:

I have found that 1/4" will begin to bend after being shot for awhile. With mine, I flatten it out about once a season and it's all good but that's on my home range.

3/8" will stand up a lot better. The clang is probably better with 3/8". I also use 1/2" and you get very little clang from that. I go more by calling shots anyway. Waiting for the sound is too slow usually...

Thanks Doc.   I wasn't sure if 1/4" AR500 would bend with pistol calibers.   We are talking about AR500 correct?   Interesting that the 3/8 has better sound too.    I'm not new to competition but I am new to Steel Challenge so any tips are appreciated.....especially "calling your shot".... makes sense.

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I started running matches initially using some of my 1/4" AR500 targets.  After 2-3 matches the 8" plates cracked around the bolt holes probably from the heavier, 45ACP bullets (wife and I are 9mm shooters).  I'd go with 3/8".

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20 minutes ago, RickT said:

I started running matches initially using some of my 1/4" AR500 targets.  After 2-3 matches the 8" plates cracked around the bolt holes probably from the heavier, 45ACP bullets (wife and I are 9mm shooters).  I'd go with 3/8".

How were they mounted?

I'm working on a system that uses T Posts and a hanger that can be adjustable for height up or down.  Most T Post mounts on top of the post but mine are adjustable.

My plan is to use a single plate bolt that slips over a slot in the hanger and mounts loosely so the plate can react and disperse some of the energy.

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1 hour ago, vinconco said:

How were they mounted?

I'm working on a system that uses T Posts and a hanger that can be adjustable for height up or down.  Most T Post mounts on top of the post but mine are adjustable.

My plan is to use a single plate bolt that slips over a slot in the hanger and mounts loosely so the plate can react and disperse some of the energy.

The plates were mounted using Shootsteel.com 2x4 hangers.  The springs used on the carriage bolts allow the plates quite a bit of movement.  I have noticed that ShootSteel has changed the shape of the hole in their plates, possible to allow the plate to swing without binding on the rectangular bolt shoulder  

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21 minutes ago, RickT said:

The plates were mounted using Shootsteel.com 2x4 hangers.  The springs used on the carriage bolts allow the plates quite a bit of movement.  I have noticed that ShootSteel has changed the shape of the hole in their plates, possible to allow the plate to swing without binding on the rectangular bolt shoulder  

 

My plan is to use a setup similar to the pic below but with the target plate hanging more vertically.

I'm practicing with the chain mounted plates currently but I want to design the system around steel challenge target requirements.   This chain mounting system does deflect a lot of energy and I've never had any cracking around the bolt.  I'm using a square bolt hole with a .040 radius in the corners to address the cracking issue.  Sharp corners in steel will tend to crack when stressed.

 

I'm finding the T post makes setup easier for different height targets without cutting 2 x 4's since the hanger can be positioned anywhere on the post.

My range is on a double slope so to keep the target presentation correct to the diagram I will have ability to adjust the target heights in relation to the shooting box.

 

I have 2 stages setup like this (smoke & hope and Pendulum)    

10 inch square chain mount.jpg

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With that setup you won't have an issue with the bolt head rocking in the plate hole.  There's a mix of test and anecdotal reporting on the internet regarding the effects of bullet weight, velocity, plate angle, ... on the internet.  Unfortunately, they never seem to test exactly the configuration you want to use.  Cowboys (SASS) use very angled, rigidly mounted plates, but the velocities are very low and the bullets "splat" into the ground.  

 

How do those hangers work on the very heavy Smoke and Hope plates?

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41 minutes ago, RickT said:

With that setup you won't have an issue with the bolt head rocking in the plate hole.  There's a mix of test and anecdotal reporting on the internet regarding the effects of bullet weight, velocity, plate angle, ... on the internet.  Unfortunately, they never seem to test exactly the configuration you want to use.  Cowboys (SASS) use very angled, rigidly mounted plates, but the velocities are very low and the bullets "splat" into the ground.  

 

How do those hangers work on the very heavy Smoke and Hope plates?

I like the way this system angles the plate using gravity alone so the plate is free to react.   The only problem with Steel Challenge is that it would slightly reduce the visible target dimension which would lead to disputes I'm sure. 

 

The hangers are made out of 1/4" hot rolled steel and support a lot of weight.   The heaviest target I've hung is a 24 x 36 3/8 AR500 plate that weighs 92 lbs.   It's still hanging at 1200 yards 3 years later.   Ground conditions for the post are a factor but the hanger has no problem supporting the weight.

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10 minutes ago, zzt said:

I see no problem with your setup except the plate angle.  We have found that a 1 to 3 degree down tilt is best.

 

 

I can control the angle by the location of the bolt hole and the length of the bolt.

 

Here is an example of the extreme

 

 

 

silhouette long bolt.jpg

Target plate bolt angle1.jpg

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