caspian guy Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) If your cmore is losing elevation adjustment its sometimes caused by a worn elevation adjustment lock screw. You can fix that by pulling the lock screw and roughing up the tip of the screw where it bears against the elevation screw (i use a triangular file to put some small teeth in the tip of the screw) Sorry for the slight thread detour Edited July 12, 2017 by caspian guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 8 hours ago, zzt said: And batteries that start out at 3.28V drop to an unusable 2.7V in less than 18 stages in my 6 MOA SR. And I turn it off between stages. I took a poll at a match last month. About 2/3 of the shooters said their batteries lasted most of the season. The other 1/3 had problems like mine. Some not so much and some the same. I guess I better NEVER sell either of mine even if I just keep them as emergency back ups in the bin. My batteries in either last the better part of two seasons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glock26Toter Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 Interesting suggestions on the drift issue. I have had every cmore (3 in total) drift on me. I have never seen a consistent enough issue to know whether it's one adjustment screw or the other. I've talked to plenty of people that say the same thing, but not enough to characterize it as a "general or known" C-More issue. i.e., I don't believe all C-Mores do it. I think it has a lot to do with the mounting position. I don't believe upright mounted C-Mores would see the issue. Suggestions on getting the adjustment screws locked down better are awesome and I'm going to try these. I wonder how often some of the people that claim to never (or rarely) see drift put their guns on rests and sight them in. I'm not claiming they are wrong or don't do it, but just actually wondering. The drift I'm talking about is normally between 1/2" to 2" at 20 yards. So not something you would notice unless actually on a rest. And on the battery thing, I use 2 - 357 batteries instead of the 1/3N. These up the voltage slightly and I've had excellent battery life. I measure the voltage after every match. When the batteries hit between 1.8 and 1.5 V (with full dot brightness) they get tossed. Back to the original thread: I believe it's a matter of just finding a formula that works for you. There is a reason that there are so many different types of sights out there. Although we like, smaller, lighter, and newer technology it may not be up to the task of phasing the older stuff out just yet. That said, in another couple of years I may try another go at a mini dot sight of either newer tech, or another brand. For now, I'm just going to shoot the hell out of these C-Mores and have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 I switched from a 90 degree C-More to an upright Delta Point Pro setup. I had the same "Wandering Zero" issue as Glock26Toter described with my C-More setup and that was a real pain in the butt to deal with on a regular basis. Did it take some time to get used to the smaller glass of the DPP? Sure. But it didn't take much time to get used to it. I don't even notice the smaller glass as being different when I shoot it now. The DPP has been very reliable, the batteries last a long time, and its held the zero like a rock. I primary shoot Limited and only shoot Open once in a while at indoor matches so that needs to be considered with my assessment. That being said, using the DPP allows me to KNOW it is going to work and maintain its zero when I pull the Open gun out of the safe from time to time. I couldn't confidently say that when using the 90 degree C-More. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a matt Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 I Agree with you CHA-LEE. The issues I have with the DP-P is strong, hand week stages. This is about my only issue and if I want to resolve it, dry fire wil take care if I feel certain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyscott999 Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 I have had wandering issues with 4-5 sliderides inn the last few years. It's a real problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sporky Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 (edited) I bought a Slideride and the dot was not even close to round and way off center with the glass. I have to send it back and I just got it. Anyone else have that issue and need to send it back? It looks to me like the coating on the diode is just scratched off for the size dot that you requested. And it looked like it was scratched off out of round and off to one side pretty significantly. I compared the dot size to my DPP and it seemed to be exactly the same size. Confusing to say the least. Super disappointed Edited July 19, 2017 by Sporky expanded the though with more detail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 I have one question about these short comings of the Cmore lines? After all these years that the Cmores have been out, why has IRA not upgraded his product other than making the aluminum housing?Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 14 minutes ago, sweetback said: I have one question about these short comings of the Cmore lines? After all these years that the Cmores have been out, why has IRA not upgraded his product other than making the aluminum housing? Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Hello: No real need to since the product works well and no one else has come out with anything with a large glass that lasts. Whomever comes out with a large lens and a small light frame that will hold up over time will be the new go to dot sight. I have seen too many of the small dots not working so that is why I am not changing any time soon. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bkreutz Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 4 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said: Hello: No real need to since the product works well and no one else has come out with anything with a large glass that lasts. Whomever comes out with a large lens and a small light frame that will hold up over time will be the new go to dot sight. I have seen too many of the small dots not working so that is why I am not changing any time soon. Thanks, Eric Agreed, don't fix what ain't broke. ( I have to confess that I do have 2 spares on hand ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wblacksh Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 I had a regular one, tried the mini, and went back to the regular one on a 90deg mount. I prefer the regular one in the 90 deg mount.I like the dot to be closer to the bore axis, and the taller glass size. Just my personal preference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdh821 Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 I went from the Cheely 90 degree mount to a DPP on both my open guns. I like how low the cmore 90* is, but I didn't like how long the optic was. That gave me limited space to rack the gun since I don't use a racker. Also, it was just awkward looking and style is 50% of this game... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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