Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!
Sporky

Anyone go back to a C-More from a mini?

Recommended Posts

This is my first open gun and it came with a DDP.  I was looking at another open gun on a vendor table this weekend and it had the original C-More on it.  I really liked the bigger dot and the larger glass.

 

Has anyone else switched back after shooting something like the DPP?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I had a vortex venom on my open gun for abought a week no problem with the optic but kept getting stove pipes between slide and mount. I don't have the time or patience to toon the ejector and extractor so went back to 90 degree c more. If it ant broken don't fix it 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a Doctor on my open gun years ago. Nothing wrong with the Dr. just couldn't get used to it. Put the Dr. on my open shotgun and went back to a 90degree C-More, love it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ended up with two RTS2 sights on my two open guns, one bought that way, one recently converted, and not looking back at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, early in my open tenure I went to the DP then returned to the slideride. I have returned with the DP-Pro over the last few years and I am on the fence about returning to the slideride again.  The slideride is just easier to shoot with in open in my opinion. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I started with a Docter that would ride on the slide, unlike a C-More Slide Ride that doesn't ride on the slide. I went to a Delta Point that didn't ride on the slide. That was better than the Docter. I got a new gun and went with the C-more in Side-More configuration. I would go to a vertical mount if I had the patience to get the ejection 100% reliable. But, I have absolutely no desire to go back to a smaller optic..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Practice is key. Any will work once your used to it.

 

I tried the RTS2 vs DPP and even though the glass is wider on the DPP the dot seems to stay in the RTS2 better because it is taller in the center. 

 

My back up gun has a 90 c-more and I like the glass and dot size but the foot print and weight of the RTS2 seems to be an advantage as well

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't see myself going back to a C-More SlideRide anytime soon, I've been enjoying the DPP's, though I wish the glass was taller.  Shannon Smith said on his podcast recently that he gave up on the RTS2's and went back to SlideRide's on his open guns before the World Shoot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello: The only ones that I know that have gone back to the Slide Ride C-more are the ones who shoot a lot and have had failures of the smaller dots. I never took the path of the smaller dot since the glass size is not as large as a regular C-More slide ride. I am actually thinking of going back to the plastic C-Mores since the glass port is larger than the aluminum ones. Thanks, Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Chillywig said:

Practice is key. Any will work once your used to it.

 

I tried the RTS2 vs DPP and even though the glass is wider on the DPP the dot seems to stay in the RTS2 better because it is taller in the center. 

 

My back up gun has a 90 c-more and I like the glass and dot size but the foot print and weight of the RTS2 seems to be an advantage as well

 

  Agreed. Practice is defiantly one of the keys and even the old tasco tube sight will work. If you want to devote your parctice getting accustom to that sight, that is entirely up to each shooter. My DP-pro works great, it's still easier to shoot the C-more slide-ride, for me. I only say this because in the areas I'm coming up a little short I didn't have when I ran the slide-ride. Plus I'm not sure i care enough to change back to the C-more at this point.  I'm solely in it to have fun these days.  Borderline burnout here kinda Meh, but good luck. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I noticed max in some of his recent open matches is ruining the Romeo 3 be interesting to see if he switches back, or if the sponsorship will keep him with sig optics. I think the r3 is built well. Time will tell

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Made the switch to the RTS2 on 2 of my Open Guns. Unfortunately I was one of the guinea pigs & suffered through versions 1, 2, 3 & 4, shipped both back 3 times each, had so many matches ruined & went back to the original slide ride. Great glass, ugly but ultra-reliable which is why I won't go back even though it seems version 4 is FINALLY working pretty good. If C-MORE had all the bugs worked out prior to selling them to testers like me I may have a different opinion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree. Cmore didn't handle the situation right. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the DPP is a great sight, but the second that I picked up a Slideride I really noticed the size of the glass and how crisp the dot was.  

I am thinking I will pick one up and see how it goes.

 

Any suggestions on a mount?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello: Do you like the 90 degree mounts or a upright mount. For the 90 degree mount I like the Cheely setback one. For the upright I am using a STI single sided and a Double Tap two sided mount on my 9mm pistols. I like the 6MOA dot module and the plastic one. The plastic one is cheaper, lighter and the glass post is a little bigger than the aluminum ones. Thanks, Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right now I'm running four different red dots.  They are FF3 8 MOA (4), RTS2v4 6 MOA (3), Slideride 6 MOA (1) and DPP 2.5 MOA (1).  All are mounted vertically.  The Slideride and DPP are frame mounted.  Everything else is slide mounted, either directly to the slide or via a dovetail adapter.  The differences I see are as follows.

 

The Slideride does have the biggest glass.  It is also the brightest IF you have a brand new battery outputting at least 3.2V installed.  Then you can see the dot on a white plate or pin when the sun is behind you.  The optics are not as contrasty as any of the others.  I get at most, three matches before I have to change batteries (and yes, I do turn it off between stages).

 

The FF3s have the smallest window.  Batteries last seemingly forever.  Dot brightness varies among them to a slight extent.  I've owned six.  The two brightest are wonderful.  The others are slightly dimmer and you lose the dot on white when the sun is behind you.

 

The RTS2s are very contrasty, and have a darker AR coating.  With new batteries they can be made very bright.  However, they eat batteries.  Once voltage drops to 2.8V they have a tendency to go out during a stage.  Since half the CR2032 batteries you buy come in at 3.0V, that's not much of a margin.  The other half comes in at 3.2+V, so I save them for matches.  I admit I do not turn these down between stages.  They are inexpensive enough that I just put a new one in for each match and forget about it.

 

I have less experience with the DPP.  I've had the same battery installed for weeks.  It is a contrasty sight, and the dot can be made extremely bright.  I love the ergonomics.  I wish the glass were larger.  I like the DPP better than the RTS2, but I like the vertical height of the RTS2 glass better.

 

The locating pins on the RTS2 are closer together than the FF3 or DPP.  That lets you mount them directly to a 1911 slide with a scallop cut.  You can mount the FF3 and DPP that way, but you cannot use locator pins.  If the sights work loose, you have to rezero after tightening.  If you want to use locator pins, you have to use an adapter.

 

The oldest FF3 has been on a 1911 45ACP for years without problems.  Round count is well into the five figure range.  The RTS2s are relatively new.  I waited until the v4s proved themselves before buying.  I've not had any reliability problems with them so far.

 

As much as I like the Slideride, I'm going to take it off and go with slide mounted optics.  The difference in dot height means I have to do a lot of dry fire practice when switching pistols.  That is becoming increasingly annoying.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I changed from sideways C-Mores to DPP's and just couldn't get used to the DPP.  All dot, and glass size differences aside I found that I could not obtain consistent recoil (dot track) management in a match.  In dry fire I could consistently draw to the dot, but in a match I routinely found myself dot hunting when entering odd shooting positions such as hard leans and especially from a low position, coming up into another position.  

When I went back to my C-Mores, I immediately reacquired my old shooting performance.  It was night and day.  

I attribute this to the fact that I was using the sideways mount as a thumb rest.  This kind of side thumb rest and the weight made the gun track very differently and since I have been shooting so many years that way, I decided it was not worth the effort to get used to the new sight. 

 

The drag is, I still have that old C-More drift to deal with.  Making sure I practice (SIGHT IN) once a week is a small price to pay for the performance I get with my C-Mores as opposed to the DPP.  Of course, this is personal experience and I make no claims of how these differences will affect others. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Glock26Toter said:

I changed from sideways C-Mores to DPP's and just couldn't get used to the DPP.  All dot, and glass size differences aside I found that I could not obtain consistent recoil (dot track) management in a match.  In dry fire I could consistently draw to the dot, but in a match I routinely found myself dot hunting when entering odd shooting positions such as hard leans and especially from a low position, coming up into another position.  

When I went back to my C-Mores, I immediately reacquired my old shooting performance.  It was night and day.  

I attribute this to the fact that I was using the sideways mount as a thumb rest.  This kind of side thumb rest and the weight made the gun track very differently and since I have been shooting so many years that way, I decided it was not worth the effort to get used to the new sight. 

 

The drag is, I still have that old C-More drift to deal with.  Making sure I practice (SIGHT IN) once a week is a small price to pay for the performance I get with my C-Mores as opposed to the DPP.  Of course, this is personal experience and I make no claims of how these differences will affect others. 

 

That is the response that I was thinking about when I originally posted this.  

I feel like I am experiencing the same issue you are.  When I dry fire I seem to get the dot with no issues. But when I am at a match, odd shooting positions and strong hand weak hand give me all kinds of trouble.

 

What is the "drift" you are referring to?  Like I said I am new to Open so I don't know all the ins and outs yet.

 

Thanks for this post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found the weak hand shooting much easier with the RTS2. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I started with the Slide Ride mounted horizontally, experimented with the RTS2, then switched back, big glass low on the slide, it's the best I've tried.IMG_20130427_184200_400_zps070de4ed.thumb.jpg.7dee4ec76160601b71943df97c24f009.jpg

Edited by kneelingatlas

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
38 minutes ago, Sporky said:

What is the "drift" you are referring to?  Like I said I am new to Open so I don't know all the ins and outs yet.

 

Thanks for this post.

The slide rides tend to not hold zero for long and drift. You need to check them very often. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, theWacoKid said:

The slide rides tend to not hold zero for long and drift. You need to check them very often. 

Why such a blanket statement? I have two slide rides that have never drifted, lost zero, or malfunctioned in any way. They even seem to go forever on the same battery. 

 I have not heard any of the shooters I shoot with complain of problems either.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cmore drift can happen i have had it happen to me 3 or 4 times in a fair number of years of shooting open.I have seen it happen to others but i wouldn't characterize it as happening often.  I witness mark the adjustment screws on ny scopes for my own sanity.  A search on here would provide some suggestions as to how to fix the issue behind it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
59 minutes ago, Sarge said:

They even seem to go forever on the same battery. 

 

 

And batteries that start out at 3.28V drop to an unusable 2.7V in less than 18 stages in my 6 MOA SR.  And I turn it off between stages.

 

I took a poll at a match last month.  About 2/3 of the shooters said their batteries lasted most of the season.  The other 1/3 had problems like mine.  Some not so much and some the same.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...