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Should I upgrade the 550b


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I am thinking of upgrading my Dillon 550b to the 650. I've had it for about 5 yrs and has served me well. At the time I got the 550, I thought, "well the 650 isn't that much more money", so almost got a 650. I was told that you don't get the full benefit of the 650 unless you get a few accessories, like the case feeder and a few other things, so you may as well add that onto the cost. I was told that if you don't want to buy the additional accessories, then you may just as well just get the 550b, so I did, and I am happy with it.

But now, I can better afford the additional expense of a 650. So, what factors should i use to determine if it is worth stepping up to a $650 (1050 is not an option). I know changing calibers is more hassle on the 650, which was a factor in me getting the 550 earlier.
 
 
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I'd recommend keep the 550 set up for small or large primers, get the 650 setup with case feeder and what ever size primers you use most often. I have 2 650's that I swap case feeder between one set up for .38 special one for .45 ACP. I also still have my 550 setup I use for small runs of calibers I don't shoot often.

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If you've got the real estate to keep the 550, I'd do it. I don't. I thought seriously about a 650 when I bought my 550 in 2011. I was afraid of the progressive aspect, so I did the 550. 4 years later, I added a case feeder to the 550. It's an add on that is twitchy at best. I got a great deal on a 650 with case feeder and was really happy with it. Then I started shooting revolver and needed deep primer insertion. The "push" seating with the 650 never got me what I wanted. I've since replaced it with a used 1050 which seats on the down stroke. Because of space constraints, the 550 and 650 have been sold for at least 80% of Dillon new. The 650 caliber changes are simple compared to the 1050. I'd had have stuck with the 650, if not for the primer seating. It's a great press. Had I the space, I'd have a 650 and the 1050.

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I had the 550b then upgraded to the 650xl and I could not be happier. I wish I would have did it sooner. I still have the 550, but it never gets any use. It just sits there all lonely while the 650 see all the action. Once you get use to the case feeder and bullet feeder is VERY hard to go back doing everything manually. The only advantage I see on the 550 is that when you mess up you can index the case plate backwards if needed. By all means upgrade and if possible keep the 550 for odd ball stuff.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On Saturday, July 01, 2017 at 5:30 PM, GregInAtl said:
I am thinking of upgrading my Dillon 550b to the 650. I've had it for about 5 yrs and has served me well. At the time I got the 550, I thought, "well the 650 isn't that much more money", so almost got a 650. I was told that you don't get the full benefit of the 650 unless you get a few accessories, like the case feeder and a few other things, so you may as well add that onto the cost. I was told that if you don't want to buy the additional accessories, then you may just as well just get the 550b, so I did, and I am happy with it.

But now, I can better afford the additional expense of a 650. So, what factors should i use to determine if it is worth stepping up to a $650 (1050 is not an option). I know changing calibers is more hassle on the 650, which was a factor in me getting the 550 earlier.
 
 

If you can afford it, keep the 550 and add the 650!

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Good call.  Do what GR8GFT suggested with the primers especially if you run a lot of different calibers.  I was using a Hornday LNL and then picked up a 650.  I use the 650 for the high volume rounds but have kept the LNL for those occasional calibers that I was already set up for (270, 45 Colt, 44 Mag, 500SW) as I can put up with the issues I had with the LNL to save the price of buying all that is needed to convert calibers on the 650

 

The primer change over on the 650 is actually easier than a lot of folks make it out to be so don't worry about that if you need to do it

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9 hours ago, bubbadoc said:

Good call.  Do what GR8GFT suggested with the primers especially if you run a lot of different calibers.  I was using a Hornday LNL and then picked up a 650.  I use the 650 for the high volume rounds but have kept the LNL for those occasional calibers that I was already set up for (270, 45 Colt, 44 Mag, 500SW) as I can put up with the issues I had with the LNL to save the price of buying all that is needed to convert calibers on the 650

 

The primer change over on the 650 is actually easier than a lot of folks make it out to be so don't worry about that if you need to do it

 

I really only load 2 calibers, 45acp and 9mm (although I have 38 spl dies) and I don't switch that often. I may just end up selling the 550b and just having one press, a 650. I'll wait until I change calibers on the 650 to decide whether to have just a 650 or both a 650 and 550

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So here is what will happen.

 

Once you load 100 rounds via the casefed 650, the 550 will be posted here for sale - trust me.  

 

The change over is sooooo worth it. I don't load on a 650 any longer ( upgraded to a 1050 ) but you will want the complete priming system for both large & small. It is the only real PITA to changing from 9mm to 45 ACP.   Or you can just load SPP  45 ACP and avoid the need altogether. 

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Upgrade to the 650 and strip down the 550 for hand throwing powder and all manual operation loading. It's terrible doing load development on a 650, the 550 is also better for doing precision rifle cartridges.

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Quote

No. The 650 is garbage. Wish i had kept my 550.

 

I doubt this stops me from getting a 650. Besides, I already have a 550 that is not going anywhere, it will just have a new companion next week.

Edited by GregInAtl
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Does anyone know if the bolts and other hardware are provided with the purchase of a 650 or do I have to get them at hardware store. I was thinking you had to purchase the mounting hardware from Dillon separately.

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It either came with my 650 or my strong mount.  

 

Been too long, I don't remember.   

 

Let me go check the manual. 

 

EDIT:   Manual says it's optional.   Item 14 on the picture/BOM. 

It must of been with my strong mount kits.  

Recommend you buy 'Nylock' nuts.

 

 

Edited by Currently
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12 minutes ago, 9x45 said:

Well, actually I did upgrade the old 550 with a roller handle....

 

image37491.jpg

 

I ended up adding a 650 and keeping the 550b. I set up my 650 last weekend. I took the roller handle off the 550 and put it on the 650 and put the stock handle on the 550. Still trying to work out the kinks with the 650

Edited by GregInAtl
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Biggest hint for new 650 users: two small boxes next to the press. One with sized and deprimed brass, the other with tumbled casa you scoop out of the casefeeder.

 

If a jam occurs at the powder station, slip a case out of box #1 into that spot once you clear it, and the press won't spit a primer down the ramp since you've given it something to prime.

 

Ditto for a jam at the casefeeder causing an empty station #1, and a case out of box number two.

 

When clearing jams, the trick is to keep the shellpate from indexing, and also not advancing the primer feed. Basically you get really good at clearing the jams your 550 had... one-handed. So the shellplate doesn't come crashing down. ;) 

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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5 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Biggest hint for new 650 users: two small boxes next to the press. One with sized and deprimed brass, the other with tumbled casa you scoop out of the casefeeder.

 

If a jam occurs at the powder station, slip a case out of box #1 into that spot once you clear it, and the press won't spit a primer down the ramp since you've given it something to prime.

 

Ditto for a jam at the casefeeder causing an empty station #1, and a case out of box number two.

 

When clearing jams, the trick is to keep the shellpate from indexing, and also not advancing the primer feed. Basically you get really good at clearing the jams your 550 had... one-handed. So the shellplate doesn't come crashing down. ;) 

 

 

Thanks for the tip. I am having a little trouble getting used to so many functions being controlled by the machine.  I'm getting tired of cleaning primers and gun powder out of the ramp and gun powder out from underneath the shell plate where the 650 dumped powder into brass with no primer. I should be OK after a few more days of loading.

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@GregInAtl You'll learn to feel for lack of primer every time you cycle it soon, which usually happens during/after some kind of jam.

 

Anytime you feel zero priming effort, pull the case and look at it. Either it was a loose pocket the primer slid right in, and you put it back and keep rocking... or you pitch that case and replace it with a sized & primed one or leave the station empty.

 

You'll stop spilling power after some practice with the new machine - once you figure out how to FEEL a missing primer before you fill that case with powder. You're exactly right: all those automated widgets can get out of synch when you clear a jam if you're not very careful.

 

I recommend next time: 

 

1. Before loading primers, run 25 or so pieces of brass through station 1 then pull it out of the machine. Set this deprimed brass aside to replace cases that get pitched during a jam to keep the machine full.

 

2. The next 25, size them and press a new primer into place. Set those aside too. Use them to replace a case in station 2 when you crush a primer or the like.

 

3. Also provide 25 or so cases that you'd have dumped into the casefeeder to load. These replace a 380 that snuck into place of a 9mm at station 1, or when a case gets crushed by the sizing die if you don't have it lined up perfectly. Etc.

 

I keep all three types lying around in separate small bins when loading.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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