rbuck Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 A couple problems have occurred since the purchase of a brand new 2011 STI Trubor. (these problems always occur during competition and not practice) Bullet Everglades Ammo 115 JHPs Winchester Primer HS-6 Powder - 8.3g OAL - 1.165-1.167 PF - 172-175 Problems 1) My first encounter of a problem is when the gun completely jammed during a steel match. I ran about 25-35 rounds before shooting this match. After shooting 2 rounds, the slide completely locked. I tried to release the slide lock, no budge. I took the mag out, I tried to charge (wouldnt move) and release the slide (wouldn't move) , no budge. I tried to move the slide forward to its natural position (pushing the slide forward while holding down the slide lock lever), no budge. About 4-5 other shooters were trying to release the slide. After about 10 mins, the slide released and went to its natural position. (It was really rough when i was charging the slide a few times) I then tried to shoot the same stage again, after the first shot, it happened again. I don't know what the heck is going on at this point. I stopped using the gun and used another shooters to finish off the match. After the match, I disassemble the gun, reassembled the gun and then the gun was able to shoot 30-40 rounds without a problem. (I stopped shooting and went home) 2) I shot a USPSA match Saturday and my first stage, this same problem occurred BUT, the gun almost cycled completely. What I mean is that after my first shot, the gun was stuck right before chambering another round. i pushed the slide forward (with ease) with the next round and shot. I don't know whats going on with that but it happened twice. 3) Empty shell casings getting stuck between the Optic and the slide. After shooting a round the casing will get stuck so that the slide couldn't chamber another round. costing me 5 seconds each time. Is this because of the ejector? Do I need a gunsmith to work with it? I don't want to move the C-more optic side ways. (not a fan of that). 4) Shooting and hitting slide lock with one bullet in the mag. I shouldn't be going to slide lock if i still have 1 bullet in the magazine. Magazines STI 140mm Magazines with Gram guts. I get nervous for each match and each stage because I don't want these problems to occur but they do and costs me a lot of time. Any suggestions? You all are pros and i just started shooting open! If you need pictures, i could demonstrate whats happening for each one. If I didn't describe each one in detail, just ask questions! Thank you guys for all of your support! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Number 4 is easy. Modify the follower of the mag to never go to slide lock. Number 3 may be taken care of by profiling the ejector to make the cases go right instead of up. Look up videos of ejector profiling on Youtube. Number 2-Polish feed ramp, polish breech face, tune mags. Number 1- I have no clue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 12 minutes ago, GrumpyOne said: Number 4 is easy. Modify the follower of the mag to never go to slide lock. Number 3 may be taken care of by profiling the ejector to make the cases go right instead of up. Look up videos of ejector profiling on Youtube. Number 2-Polish feed ramp, polish breech face, tune mags. Number 1- I have no clue. Thank you for replying! #4 - how do i modify the follower? any youtube videos out there? #3 - i couldnt find any youtube videos on ejector profiling, still looking now #2 - polish the feed ramp? could i use a dremel with a polishing head and go slow with it? like i said im super new to all this. #1 - yeah.. thats like the main main problem Thank you again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottlep Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 (edited) For issue number 1, how far out of battery was it? If you take the gun apart and do the plunk test, do the rounds drop all the way in the barrel and is the brass below the hood of the barrel by at least a few thousandths (try with a bunch of rounds)? This would not have anything to do with how long the rounds are loaded but how deep the chamber itself is cut. I have seen where chambers weren't cut deep enough and the some brass was sitting out past the hood of the barrel by a few thousandths. This would cause slightly longer brass to jam against the breach face when the gun is going into battery and totally lock up the gun. Here is some info on #3, for tuning the ejector. On my of the open guns I have and have built, the point of the ejector is about 1/3 or less from the top - http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/ejection perfection.htm Edited June 6, 2017 by scottlep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 3 minutes ago, scottlep said: For issue number 1, how far out of battery was it? If you take the gun apart and do the plunk test, do the rounds drop all the way in the barrel and is the brass below the hood of the barrel by at least a few thousandths (try with a bunch of rounds)? This would not have anything to do with how long the rounds are loaded but how deep the chamber itself is cut. I have seen where chambers weren't cut deep enough and the some brass was sitting out past the hood of the barrel by a few thousandths. This would cause slightly longer brass to jam against the breach face when the gun is going into battery and totally lock up the gun. Here is some info on #3, for tuning the ejector. On my of the open guns I have and have built, the point of the ejector is about 1/3 or less from the top - http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/ejection perfection.htm Thank you for replying! For issue number 1 - The slide is locked all the way back. And something i forgot to mention is that the slide lever was sticking out about 1/8 of an inch. After pushing the slide lock lever back into place, the slide was able to move forward. This happened the very first time. The second time was the slide was completely locked to the rear and i could not use the slide stop lever or puling the slide and releasing it. It was super hard to put back. I will try out the brass and barrel soon and pm you pictures. I appreciate the link for issue #3! I will stay in touch with you. Currently working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottlep Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 (edited) 6 minutes ago, rbuck said: Thank you for replying! For issue number 1 - The slide is locked all the way back. And something i forgot to mention is that the slide lever was sticking out about 1/8 of an inch. After pushing the slide lock lever back into place, the slide was able to move forward. This happened the very first time. The second time was the slide was completely locked to the rear and i could not use the slide stop lever or puling the slide and releasing it. It was super hard to put back. I will try out the brass and barrel soon and pm you pictures. I appreciate the link for issue #3! I will stay in touch with you. Currently working. #1 - I just went through figuring out this same issue for a left hand shooter shooting that I built a 1911 for. He would push out the slide release a very tiny bit with his right thumb when he would grip the gun from a draw. It would lock the slide, but not at slide lock. Just enough to jam the slide release against the slide and stop it. I eventually had to file down the right side of the slide stop pin so it sat slightly below the frame. If you arent a lefty, maybe you are somehow bumping the pin on the right side of the frame when you are drawing, maybe with your trigger finger trying to keep it out of the guard while drawing? Edited June 6, 2017 by scottlep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 2 minutes ago, scottlep said: #1 - I just went through figuring out this same issue for a left hand shooter shooting that I built a 1911 for. He would push out the slide release a very tiny bit with his right thumb when he would grip the gun from a draw. It would lock the slide, but not at slide lock. Just enough to jam the slide release against the slide and stop it. I eventually had to file down the right side of the slide stop pin so it sat slightly below the frame. If you arent a lefty, maybe you are somehow bumping the pin on the right side of the frame when you are drawing, maybe with your trigger finger trying to keep it out of the guard while drawing? YES! See i thought I did that as well but didn't remember if i did! but the second time I'm sure I didn't hit the button on the other side of the slide lock lever with my trigger finger. I was wondering if there is suppose to be a little dent for the safety plunger (well i think its the safety plunger, its a small pint that sticks out and suppose to hold the slide stop lever) to hold against the side wall of the slide lock lever. If so, mine does not have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 #2 - could be your thumb rubbing the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottlep Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 (edited) No, you don't want a detent in the slide lock. If you are good with a file, you can flatten the end of the slide stop pin where it protrudes through the right side of the frame. Basically take the round end and make it flat so it sits flush or very slightly below the frame. Actually, alot of gunsmiths do this anyway becuase it looks cool too. See attached pic. Edited June 6, 2017 by scottlep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 (edited) 4 minutes ago, echotango said: #2 - could be your thumb rubbing the slide. Thank you for replying!! (didnt mean question marks) I thought it would be as well, but, my support hand has a thumb rest and my right hand thumb is on the safety lever. none of them touch the slide. Edited June 6, 2017 by rbuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 1 minute ago, scottlep said: No, you don't want a detent in the slide lock. If you are good with a file, you can flatten the end of the slide stop pin where it protrudes through the right side of the frame. Basically take the round rend and make it flat so it sits flush or very slightly below the frame. Actually, alot of gunsmiths do this anyway becuase it looks cool too. See attached pic. Thanks!! ill ask if the gunsmith can do that for me! Ill message you after i do that test you were talking about! That might be the second problem to the first issue #1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echotango Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 4 minutes ago, rbuck said: Thank you for replying!! (didnt mean question marks) I thought it would be as well, but, my support hand has a thumb rest and my right hand thumb is on the safety lever. none of them touch the slide. The inside of your right thumb can touch the slide. I had this issue before installing a shielded safety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottlep Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 If you are even the slightest bit capable with hand tools you can do it. Go to a local hardware store and buy a good quality fine cut Nicholson file. Remove the slide stop and start taking some material off. Take your time and just make sure it is square. Keep test fitting it until you can feel with your finger that it is flush. The cost of the file is way less than what you might pay a gunsmith. Having a quality file or two in your arsenal of tools is priceless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 1 minute ago, scottlep said: If you are even the slightest bit capable with hand tools you can do it. Go to a local hardware store and buy a good quality fine cut Nicholson file. Remove the slide stop and start taking some material off. Take your time and just make sure it is square. Keep test fitting it until you can feel with your finger that it is flush. The cost of the file is way less than what you might pay a gunsmith. Having a quality file or two in your arsenal of tools is priceless. Thanks! I'll see if I can do that! Anything about the ejector? how i could do that myself as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 4 minutes ago, echotango said: The inside of your right thumb can touch the slide. I had this issue before installing a shielded safety. Hmmm. yeah, maybe. I'll have to check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottlep Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 2 minutes ago, rbuck said: Thanks! I'll see if I can do that! Anything about the ejector? how i could do that myself as well? Yeah, that one is a little more complicated. Can be done with the ejector still in the gun with the correct narrow file. Best to do it with the ejector removed, but probably not something I would recommend if you aren't comfortable tinkering. Remove too much or get the angles wrong and it will just make it worse and might even have to start over with a new ejector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 1 minute ago, scottlep said: Yeah, that one is a little more complicated. Can be done with the ejector still in the gun with the correct narrow file. Best to do it with the ejector removed, but probably not something I would recommend if you aren't comfortable tinkering. Remove too much or get the angles wrong and it will just make it worse and might even have to start over with a new ejector. So, probably take it to a gunsmith. haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balwolley Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Sounds like this is getting straightened out . I hope this will get you up and running. I'm having an open gun built and hoping I won't have these problems , but sounds like this is the best place to be when a problem arises!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 1 minute ago, Balwolley said: Sounds like this is getting straightened out . I hope this will get you up and running. I'm having an open gun built and hoping I won't have these problems , but sounds like this is the best place to be when a problem arises!! Yeah!!! im sure your gun won't have any issues since its being custom built!!! Congrats on your gun! i just got mine a couple weeks ago! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herman Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 did you get the problem fixed. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Sounds like you have things under control... I bought a TruBor a few months ago and had some similar problems... Maybe these will help if you still have problems... My gun had massive extraction problems... It turned out that the extractor hole in the slide was too far to the right... Never could get enough extractor tension to grab the case... Many failures to extract... Sent it back to STI and they replaced the slide and barrel... Shoots better... Not perfect yet, but better... Also had problems with the front of the guide rod dragging on the compensator... It would sometimes keep the gun from going into battery... Ground a small slot on the bottom of the compensator to solve the problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 20 hours ago, herman said: did you get the problem fixed. ? Haven't had the time to work on the gun, hopefully tomorrow or Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 6 hours ago, RaylanGivens said: Sounds like you have things under control... I bought a TruBor a few months ago and had some similar problems... Maybe these will help if you still have problems... My gun had massive extraction problems... It turned out that the extractor hole in the slide was too far to the right... Never could get enough extractor tension to grab the case... Many failures to extract... Sent it back to STI and they replaced the slide and barrel... Shoots better... Not perfect yet, but better... Also had problems with the front of the guide rod dragging on the compensator... It would sometimes keep the gun from going into battery... Ground a small slot on the bottom of the compensator to solve the problem... Doesn't look like the extractor is the problem. Might just be from shooting shitty loads and not getting enough Ooomf, I get stovepipes from factory 115 ammo like winchester. my reloads also extract, never had a problem. I just looked at the compensator, youre right, it does look like the recoil spring (the metal stick) was rubbing against the compensator and caused some scratches. Wouldnt it be okay to round off the actual end of the recoil spring instead of messing with the compensator? cost more to replace that trubor barrel then a recoil shaft thingy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 It is - and named - guide rod. Isn't a spring, the spring is what goes around it inside the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuck Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 26 minutes ago, Steve RA said: It is - and named - guide rod. Isn't a spring, the spring is what goes around it inside the slide. Cool, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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