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BOLO Tuning for a longer DA pull


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23 hours ago, tattooo said:

The Bolo should just drop right in without having to be fit on a single action only Gold team or Limited correct ?

 

I put a bolo in the SA Match and it was a drop in.

 

However !!! The pre-travel screw  in the top portion of the trigger needs to be removed.

 

It made an immediate dramatic change in the pull. Highly recommend doing it.

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3 hours ago, Tanfastic said:

 

That would be the point where you just call Joe at PD and have him walk you through it.  

 

He is a very helpful guy!

 

I think I got a Friday afternoon gun this time. First two were plug and play followed by giggles of child like glee. 

 

S.A. wouldn't work - no big deal took a bit off the arc.

Now S.A. works fine but gun will not begin to move the trigger in D.A - so I called Joe (since you guys were useless :) ) & he guided me through removing material from the flat (wing face) that contacts the trigger bar so the bolo could drop down. I think he said that was more of a thing with some of the original style stock 2's (thinner trigger guard-skinny tang version) which this gun is. 

Now S.A. works & D.A. moves hammer back but will not break - so I removed a bit from the bottom corner of the wing per instructions on the website.

Now S.A. works & D.A. will not move hammer - when instructions say filing the corner of the wing is an extremely sensitive adjustment they are serious - now bolo is an undersized paperweight. 

Hacked around on bolo some more just playing around - you can't break broke - didn't learn anything. 

 

Gun is headed to PD to get things done right, I think I could be more careful with the last tweak and make it work, but I'd worry about reliability when gun gets worn/dirty since this one seems pretty on the edge. 

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11 hours ago, johnbu said:

Sending it to Joe.... always a good idea!

 

For reliability and piece of mind I agree. 

 

Hard for stubborn people to throw in the towel though. 

 

I did not even try duct tape yet, so there was that. 

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wondering what other parts can we tackle to make the DA longer?

I am very curious as to how much closer to the SA I can get it...

 

Next I think to modify would be the ramp/slanted angle of the sear cage however it might be very tricky to get right on both sides... Or I could shave some off the trigger bar, but not sure I want to do this on that part...

 

Sorry for derailing this thread, perhaps we should open another one and start a new polishing project this weekend? lol

 

 

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34 minutes ago, Avenida said:

I am very curious as to how much closer to the SA I can get it...

 

My primary is 90%+ of the SA hammer position after diddling with the bolo nose.

AND after lengthening the da hammer stroke, the pull weight went  DOWN.

 

5#8 da with PD 15.5 spring.  runs everything. (Full PD spring set and good polish).

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I tried running egd lights springs after playing with the disco, I am getting 85% of the SA throw but cant ignite SB primers reliably.

 

WOndering if I should switch to PD springs...

 

I have a yellow one given to me by a fellow shooter, but dont have a correct fp spring to go along with it.

 

What fp spring would be correct for pd hammer springs?

 

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will these run with extreme firing pin or do I need to change the FP to a Pd to use this spring?
 


Hammer spring has zero bearing on the FP spring. I think my gun has a light Xtreme fp spring and a 14lb PD hammer spring. But it really doesn’t matter.

As long as the fp spring isn’t stupid heavy. You’ll be fine.


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3 hours ago, SCTaylor said:

 


Hammer spring has zero bearing on the FP spring. I think my gun has a light Xtreme fp spring and a 14lb PD hammer spring. But it really doesn’t matter.

As long as the fp spring isn’t stupid heavy. You’ll be fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

If it has 0 bearing why EGD sells light and Medium fp spring?

 

just curious

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There is/was an issue with firing pins getting stuck in forward in the fp hole. For some, the light would get stuck. Patriot Defense makes a fp spring with an engineered stop to prevent sticking the pin.


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14 minutes ago, Avenida said:

 

If it has 0 bearing why EGD sells light and Medium fp spring?

 

just curious

Because it is HIGHLY IMPORTANT. The FP spring "robs" force to keep the FP from going too far forward and getting stuck.

Too weak = stuck FP.

Too strong = light strike failures

 

But PD only makes one FP spring.  why?

 

Because they engineered it to work with light, medium and heavy hamner springs. Their very light spring robs little force, but reaches "coil solid stack" before the FP can go too far forward. Clever... very clever!

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12 hours ago, johnbu said:

Because it is HIGHLY IMPORTANT. The FP spring "robs" force to keep the FP from going too far forward and getting stuck.

Too weak = stuck FP.

Too strong = light strike failures

 

But PD only makes one FP spring.  why?

 

Because they engineered it to work with light, medium and heavy hamner springs. Their very light spring robs little force, but reaches "coil solid stack" before the FP can go too far forward. Clever... very clever!

 

Can I use, or better said, would it be recommended to run PD's FP spring with any other hammer spring?

wondering if this is what I need to ignite SB primers reliably. I am experimenting at this point but I do not want to go to the extent where I am mismatching parts for no reason. I don't want to waste money or time...

 

 

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5 hours ago, Avenida said:

 

Can I use, or better said, would it be recommended to run PD's FP spring with any other hammer spring?

wondering if this is what I need to ignite SB primers reliably. I am experimenting at this point but I do not want to go to the extent where I am mismatching parts for no reason. I don't want to waste money or time...

 

 

 

You can use the PD firing pin return spring with any hammer spring.  S&B primers (and CCI) need to be inserted into the case DEEPLY.  0.008" below flush.  Because they are hard to ignite, any force lost by the firing pin physically pushing the primer to the bottom of the pocket increases the chance of a fail to ignite.  This is compounded if you don't swage the pockets to a uniform dimension. 

 

Because they are difficult to uniformly seat deeply, most people choose to use a primer that is easier to ignite. I use winchester.   People with a Dillon 1050 can adjust the seat depth and have less worry. And expensive way to go. 

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You need a heavier hammer spring to pop S&B primers reliably.  In my opinion.

 

Honestly, just put an EGD Medium hammer spring in the gun if you shoot in IPSC and not USPSA. It’s 100% legal and the gun will eat anything.

 

A 7lb DA pull isn’t hard to manage if you practice with your relaible gun instead of spending weeks messing with an unreliable one.

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Can I use, or better said, would it be recommended to run PD's FP spring with any other hammer spring?
wondering if this is what I need to ignite SB primers reliably. I am experimenting at this point but I do not want to go to the extent where I am mismatching parts for no reason. I don't want to waste money or time...
 
 
I have shot about 30k s&b primers out my stock 2 with no issues.
I run 14pound PD hammer spring and the Extreme firing pin with the light firing pin spring. No issues anymore. I think the firing pin also makes a difference.

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

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7 hours ago, GTIV said:

I have shot about 30k s&b primers out my stock 2 with no issues.
I run 14pound PD hammer spring and the Extreme firing pin with the light firing pin spring. No issues anymore. I think the firing pin also makes a difference.

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk
 

 

Great thanks

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18 hours ago, GTIV said:

I have shot about 30k s&b primers out my stock 2 with no issues.
I run 14pound PD hammer spring and the Extreme firing pin with the light firing pin spring. No issues anymore. I think the firing pin also makes a difference.

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk
 

 

What press are you using?

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  • 6 months later...

Anyone had to go shorter than 0.4385 ? I am there with one gun and it appears that I need to go farther based on how far the hammer is going back

 

I think my measurement is good, I get 0.4650 with an unmolested PD disco, and I think I am doing things right - 1 gun seemed great with no modification of the disco and the other 2 seemed great at about 0.4520 - pre-travel indicates that I do not need to remove any more material from the arc of the disco. 

 

The gun is working with federals so I am not in a rush, figured I'd check the brain trust to see if going shorter than 0.4385 seems reasonable before maybe wasting time and money. Could call PD again but hate to take up any more of their time if the answer is 'yea it happens sometimes'. Also thought it would be interesting to know the max that anyone has needed to remove. 

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Well . . . . 

 

Tanfo outsmarted me, again.

 

Installed bolo a few weeks back - s.a. seemed right - just a bit of pre-travel like I prefer so I figured the bolo arc was just fine - d.a. travel was short but set off my federals ok - figured I'd shoot 1000 rounds or so & then get the bolo tweaked to fix the d.a. .

 

Upon shortening bolo I could not do squat to get hammer travel where it ought to be - eventually shortened past the point of "this can't be right" & started looking elsewhere.

 

I have no idea why the single action felt right before - or why the d.a. worked at all - but eventually figured out I needed to take more material out of the arc on the bolo as it was not able to drop down enough for the wing to get behind the trigger bar . 

 

Now everything feels exactly right & d.a. is fine (new bolo & height not changed only took a bit off arc) , s.a. feels pretty much exactly the same except I have a smidge less pre-travel. 

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