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Adjusting an FFB shellplate


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Installed an FFB shellplate on my 1050.  It's a nice piece of gear.  I've had no issues other than using the recommended 0.015" feeler gauge the shellplate does rock a bit.  This is versus the Dillon procedure of tightening down the shellplate and backing off 1/8 turn.  I'd like to hear from other folks using this shellplate.

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Loose is what FFB recommends. Following Dillon's normal procedure, the plate will be to tight and have problems feeding cases.

 

That little extra float doesn't appear to impact other stations. A tad unnerving simply because it's not what you would expect given the anticipated tighter tolerances, but that aside I have been pleased with the plate. Definitely smoother and less powder spillage.

 

M

 

 

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M,

Thanks.  The shellplate has been working well, but I've still reinstalled my MBF PTX.  Even though I have a slight bump on the upstroke as the PTX disengages I have virtually no bullet tipping.  I simply can't understand how the taper in the Dillon PTX is supposed to create a "pocket" necessary to keep the bullet upright at speed.  I'm now back to a 2 second or less manual cycle time.  I'm sure the FFB shellplate and Delrin ball are both helping.  Did have to tweak the little ejector arm since the new shellplate does shoes a great job of holding onto the case.

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M,
Thanks.  The shellplate has been working well, but I've still reinstalled my MBF PTX.  Even though I have a slight bump on the upstroke as the PTX disengages I have virtually no bullet tipping.  I simply can't understand how the taper in the Dillon PTX is supposed to create a "pocket" necessary to keep the bullet upright at speed.  I'm now back to a 2 second or less manual cycle time.  I'm sure the FFB shellplate and Delrin ball are both helping.  Did have to tweak the little ejector arm since the new shellplate does shoes a great job of holding onto the case.


Redding expander in station 2 + Dillon's OEM PTX will get you the same but without "pulling" on the upstroke.
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On 4/18/2017 at 8:19 AM, NicoR said:

 


Redding expander in station 2 + Dillon's OEM PTX will get you the same but without "pulling" on the upstroke.

 

 

Agreed! This is the way to go. 

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The Redding expander does work well with the Dillon PTX, but what do folks do with once-fired brass which includes crimped primers?  I suppose I could put together a setup to deprime and swage before I start using the brass.

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The Redding expander does work well with the Dillon PTX, but what do folks do with once-fired brass which includes crimped primers?  I suppose I could put together a setup to deprime and swage before I start using the brass.


You can still swage brass with the Redding expander instead of the OEM backup rod.
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Just now, NicoR said:

 


You can still swage brass with the Redding expander instead of the OEM backup rod.

 

Interesting.  I didn't realize the swager would be advisable without Dillon die.

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Well, I've seen the light.  Reinistalled the Redding expander and the Dillon powder funnel.  Left the swaging rod installed.  I don't know how important the backup rod is, but I'm good with living without it since the press runs like a watch: Lee U die, Redding expander, Redding competition seater and a Lee taper crimp.  I'm in reloading heaven even without a Mark 7.

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 I'm in reloading heaven even without a Mark 7.

There is a whole new level that awaits you when you don't have to pull a handle.... :-)

Are you running any military brass? Curious what happens without the backing rod with the swag rod in place.

In the process of doing a caliber conversion at the moment from 10mm Auto to 300 Blackout Subs, FFB plate and all. Just finished adjusting the the M1 Carbine expander and small primer swager. It is a thing of beauty when everything runs smoothly!

M


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