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Can someone help me with S&w models

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Shot my first ICORE match yesterday and had a blast. Buddy and me both decided to try it out, but neither wanted to get too far in. Shot my 4" Taurus 66 with some comp 3 speedloaders I picked up from AWD and a holder I roughly copied from NM with some spare kydex.

 

Ended up placing 3rd in classic and I'm hooked. I think I want to stay in classic for a while, preferably keeping my speedloader setup since it worked so well. So it looks like that means a K Frame in 38/357, but then the confusion starts. I get completely lost in the numbers, then some are only available in short barrels, or were made 80 years ago and have no aftermarket.

 

In short can someone help me with a list of what models to look for that:

4-6" barrel

K frame

6 shot 357

Generally modern, aka parts and accessories available

Not some goofy collectors item that costs too much

 

Just getting lost here. I don't do well with number only model, glocks confuse me too.

 

20ff621a233b7c07a61eeaf12d8e9d61.jpg

 

Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk

 

 

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There are other K frame models that would be modern enough, but not new. Sticking with .357 and adjustable sights only, 19 (blue or nickel) or 66 (stainless). In .38 special adjustable sights, are 14,15 (blue or nickel) 67 (stainless).

 

I would go with an L frame 586 (blue or nickel) or 686 (stainless).

Edited by Toolguy

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1 hour ago, Taroman said:

If you're stuck on K-Frame speedloaders, about the only new choice is the Model 66:

162662_01_lg_0.jpg?itok=PY3DKcB4

They have the Model 64, .38 special, fixed sight revolver (for less money), also

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Guess I forgot to say, new is not required, in fact used is better. Just had a kid so the budget is limited, ideally I want to find something I can trade for. I just don'e want something older that is either considered "collectible" or uses parts that are more difficult to find or modify. 

 

Sounds like the list is 19, 66, 14, 15 and 67.

 

I might consider an L frame, if I found the right deal on a 586 or 686 to have budget for the necessary accessories I may consider it. Eventually I will probably move up to L6 with a 625 and would prefer to save for that for now. 

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ToolGuy is on target with recommendation for an L frame. They are much more durable than the kframe. 

 

If budget is an issue, you would be money ahead to keep shooting what you have while you save for a used 625 or 25.  Unless of course you want both. 

 

That said, a couple years ago I bought a couple police trade in K frames for about $250 each. They were holster worn but in decent mechanical order. You just have to watch for those deals. I found mine when a prison traded in their revolvers for bottom feeders. 

 

I like the L frame revolvers a lot. Accessories are cheap compared to bottom feeders. All this stuff is cheap compared to diapers and formula :) my youngest is 18 months old. 

 

Ultimately up to you to decide what game you want to play. A good way is to brown bag lunch and save your lunch money for the shooting iron you really want. 

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Hmmm, don't want to kill the get a new gun buzz but what is wrong with your Taurus? I would shoot it until it stopped going bang. This will allow you to save up and buy an L frame 686. 

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Hmmm, don't want to kill the get a new gun buzz but what is wrong with your Taurus? I would shoot it until it stopped going bang.


That might not take all that long....

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Hmmm, don't want to kill the get a new gun buzz but what is wrong with your Taurus? I would shoot it until it stopped going bang. This will allow you to save up and buy an L frame 686. 


2 ftf already, seems to be a random timing issue.

I could fix up the Taurus, I bought it for $100 and already brought it back to life. It is a somewhat tempting option as I could build up my tooling for later on.

I'll be shooting the Taurus again next month unless something falls in my lap. Hoping to get some practice in and uncover the ftf when I can diagnose the issue. Also should be able to get it in the mill and camfer the cylinders a little and make loading easier

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On 4/10/2017 at 1:37 AM, practical_man said:

ToolGuy is on target with recommendation for an L frame. They are much more durable than the kframe. 

 

If budget is an issue, you would be money ahead to keep shooting what you have while you save for a used 625 or 25.  Unless of course you want both. 

 

That said, a couple years ago I bought a couple police trade in K frames for about $250 each. They were holster worn but in decent mechanical order. You just have to watch for those deals. I found mine when a prison traded in their revolvers for bottom feeders. 

 

I like the L frame revolvers a lot. Accessories are cheap compared to bottom feeders. All this stuff is cheap compared to diapers and formula :) my youngest is 18 months old. 

 

Ultimately up to you to decide what game you want to play. A good way is to brown bag lunch and save your lunch money for the shooting iron you really want. 

+1

 

K-frame
 
L-frame

 

http://www.guns.com/review/gun-review-smith-wesson-model-65-4-production-outdated/

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Before you buy either a 586 or 686 L-frame double check to see if there are any differences in the hammer/firing pin assemblies. Personally all things the same the stainless steel of the 686 makes better sense for just a bit more money.

 

I have a 686 with 4" barrel that I bought for IDPA and actually it isn't the best gun for even IDPA (a S&W 625 --major PF is better). But IDPA was the reason why I chose the 4" barrel.

 

Most shooters, myself included, will take a new S&W revo to a pistol smith to have the approx. 14 pound factory trigger lightened and smoothed out. Even PC smiths have heavy triggers out of the box. The issue is if you go too light then you will need to handload your own ammo and use federal primers. If you can find used that has had action work done that might be a good idea.

 

I intend to use my 686 for ICORE classic this year. The short 4" barrel doesn't really bother me and I'm not going to buy another revo for ICORE anytime soon as I have other priorities. I had the cylinder cut for moon clips also so I can shoot this gun in classic and limited 6. In addition to having the cylinder cut for moons and the action/trigger work done, I had the spring latch that secures the ejection rod inside the groove in the underlug changed to a ball detent on the crane, another ball detent added to the crane open position, front sight changed to fiber optic, the cylinder trued, bc gap adjusted, fc work done, hammer bobbed. This added about 5 or so hundred dollars to the gun more I think. Also I used a rasp to remove the finger groves in the stock grips. 6 shot moons for a 686 are expensive as TK is the only maker of them. Plus you need tools to put the ammo into moons and to remove from moons. If you stay with classic you don't need anything to do with moons and can use a production holster and speed loaders, I have all Safariland gear for this which is not that expensive.

 

After all the work mentioned the gun really is nice now. Not sure if any of this is helpful. Hopefully there is something you can use. Revolvers are addicting.

Edited by firewood

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