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Tanfoglio Tuning Videos: DIY Trigger job tutorial


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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

I'm not sure how to answer that. Assuming fixed variables of CCI and 650, my gun won't set them off more than 60% of the time in DA with a 14lb PD spring. With the firing pin block removed from the gun.

 

And I know there are at least 5 or 6 other guys who are regulars on this forum, who've had to run an EGD M in order to shoot factory ammo with soviet bloc primers in it or CCIs.

Send me your gun, some ammo, and ill fix it........ plus I'd like to get a look of what's under the hood on this mythical beast

Edited by PatriotDefense
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Thinking on it, I really should try again and see. With around 1,500 rounds through the gun who knows if anything might have been in need of some work, and has broken in somewhat.

 

I just keep running the EGW spring because I know it works, I find the gun very shootable with it, and I haven't had time to test it in live fire outside of matches.

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3 minutes ago, Prerunnertrd said:

Nice video.  I've been trying to find these and here they are.

 

There was nothing this in-depth until I posted these last week. There is a short pair of videos done by a guy in Australia which showed me how to disassemble and reassemble...

 

But if you aren't mechanically inclined they're not nearly as helpful: I included a lot of close-ups, and function tests along the way to ensure you've put it together correctly.

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Great job on these videos! I just stumbled across them yesterday myself. I've already polished and tuned my S2 but I never touched the frame at all. I might have to give it a try but man it has tight in some of those areas.

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The rails for the slide and the insides of the holes for the hammer and trigger bar plunger are definitely worth polishing.

 

If your gun has a few thousand rounds through it, I doubt you'll notice even those areas being smoothed out.

 

But it certainly doesn't hurt.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

The rails for the slide and the insides of the holes for the hammer and trigger bar plunger are definitely worth polishing.

 

If your gun has a few thousand rounds through it, I doubt you'll notice even those areas being smoothed out.

 

But it certainly doesn't hurt.

 

 

I agree. I've got a match this weekend so I'll hit it next week and see how it turns out. I have a bad history with working on a gun right before the match lol.

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42 minutes ago, Skelt11 said:

 

I agree. I've got a match this weekend so I'll hit it next week and see how it turns out. I have a bad history with working on a gun right before the match lol.

 

<voice of demon on right shoulder>

"Oh come on... how could you possibly hurt the gun by doing a little smoothing?"

 

<voice of angel on left shoulder>

"Because you're going to drop the slide and break the rear sight, or get the firing pin block spring turned sideways, or..."

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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21 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

<voice of demon on right shoulder>

"Oh come on... how could you possibly hurt the gun by doing a little smoothing?"

 

<voice of angel on left shoulder>

"Because you're going to drop the slide and break the rear sight, or get the firing pin block spring turned sideways, or..."

 

 

Demon - "Dude you'll find the spring, don't worry about it. You've got four hours before you have to get up, plenty of time"

 

Angel - "You're a complete dumbass."

 

Seriously, happened right before my first official match :-) 

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Italian strippers ! Woo hoo!

Oh...never mind.

 

Lol.

10 hours ago, Skelt11 said:

 

And I just stripped a screw in one of my Henning grips.....UGH. Listen to them if they ever visit again. 

 

Did you strip the splines of the screw? Or mess up the threads on the frame?

 

I stripped the splines out of the torks screws and used a heat gun and hex key to get it out.  lock tite actually held that time !

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13 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Snapped it off, or stripped the threads in the frame?

 

I promise I'm not laughing. But I might be lying.

 

 

Stripped the head of the screw out. All is good though. I stared at it for a few hours and it finally realized how pissed I was and backed itself out. I don't negotiate with terrorists. Stuck with the crappy wood grips for the match this weekend though. 

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4 hours ago, johnbu said:

Italian strippers ! Woo hoo!

Oh...never mind.

 

Lol.

 

Did you strip the splines of the screw? Or mess up the threads on the frame?

 

I stripped the splines out of the torks screws and used a heat gun and hex key to get it out.  lock tite actually held that time !

 

Thats exactly what happened actually. Henning is making new screws out of harder heat treated steel now as I just found out :-) 

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I didn't sand that spot - a dremel and a polishing wheel until it was slick to the touch.

 

"rubbing like crazy?" What does that mean, exactly?

 

Also, the ROUGHEST sandpaper that touched my gun was 2,000 grit and that was only inside frame and pin holes. You're not trying to remove any material. It's simply the easiest way I could figure to get something coated in polishing compound inside the small holes of the gun... and spun with a drill.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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On April 7, 2017 at 0:46 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

I didn't sand that spot - a dremel and a polishing wheel until it was slick to the touch.

 

"rubbing like crazy?" What does that mean, exactly?

 

Also, the ROUGHEST sandpaper that touched my gun was 2,000 grit and that was only inside frame and pin holes. You're not trying to remove any material. It's simply the easiest way I could figure to get something coated in polishing compound inside the small holes of the gun... and spun with a drill.

 

 

 

"Rubbing like crazy" = The right side of the trigger bar, as I'm holding the gun, has a lot of contact with the right side of the frame. The left side doesn't show much contact. If I polish the trigger bar again and fire another 50-100 rounds the polish is gone. I need to order smaller felt wheels and I'll give it a shot. 

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I just finished polishing round #2 after several hundred rounds. After watching your video I missed spots on the sear, sear housing and Bolo. I also did the slide rails and touched up wear spots on the frame from the trigger, trigger bar and hammer. This took 1/2 pound off my SA pull. AMAZING! Great videos. Thank you.

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The scales are roughly two-thirds as thick as the factory grips at the bottom, and even thinner than the EGD Extremes at the top - there's absolutely no difficulty reaching the magazine release.

 

Until @PatriotDefense comes out with their polymer grips which have a palm swell? These are my 100% favorite profile of grip.

 

The upcoming polymer grips I hope will be perfect - if they can be belt-sanded down to my preferred contour and then stippled with a soldering iron to provide aggressive grip.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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I spent this morning watching the videos and tearing apart my LimPro. gave everything a good cleaning and repolished some things for no apparent reason.  Got everything back together with minimal cursing and no lost springs.  Thank you for the outstanding tutorial.

 

One quick question: Is it normal to have a little vertical play in the firing pin retainer? Seems much tighter fit in my 1911/2011?  

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