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Tanfoglio Tuning Videos: DIY Trigger job tutorial


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I just finished a 4 part series on YouTube totaling 48min 25 sec in length. Take a look at tell me what you think.

 

For the newbies to the platform, this gun seems intimidating at first. Hopefully this series will change that - they're no harder to work on than your Glock or M&P, there are simply pins to drive in and out... and more steps to the process.

 

For those of you familiar with the platform - let me know what I might have left out, or what you do differently!

 

Tanfo Tuning Part 1: Disassembly

 

Tanfoglio Tuning Part 2: Polishing Basics

 

Tanfoglio Tuning Part 3: Polishing and Assembly

 

 

Tanfoglio Tuning Part 4: Final Assembly & Testing

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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7 minutes ago, NWfront said:

Nice videos.  Coming from a Glock/M&P I wish I had them 1 month ago.  The gun was easy to figure out but I now see a few spots on the sear cage and trigger bar I unkowingly missed.  

 

I am the expert. 

 

...which means I did the same thing four months ahead of you, and caught it when taking the gun apart and seeing new wear marks and looking at how it operates. ;) 

 

You're welcome for the tip!

 

Polishing up the underside of the sear cage made no difference I could measure in pull weight, but did make the trigger even smoother.

 

I think too much emphasis is given to the pull weights because they can be measured as posted as objective numbers.

 

A smooth, crisp trigger is huge. A light one is nice. Tanfos can be really really shootable with a 7.5lb DA pull if that weight comes from being fully polished and running heavy springs.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Minimum shopping list I recommend:

1. Front sight of your choice.

2. Single piece sear from EAA (Xtreme not needed)

3. Conefit guide rod (EGD or Henning)

4. Hammer spring to match the ammo you'll run. (Patriot or EGD)

5. Wolff recoil spring (6 8 or 10lbs in 9 minor)

6. Patriot Defense springs: Trigger, sear, firing pin springs

 

Additional hotness not strictly needed:

1.CGW trigger pin for the Canik pistols.

2.Titan Hammer & BOLO Disconnector

3. Wolff extra power extractor spring

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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I'd move the conefit guide rod up to the minimum shopping list.

 

With approx 5000 rounds out of my Lim Pro (a mix of factory, major and minor), my frame definitely got fairly good sized burrs on either side where the standard guide rod sits.  This caused my gun intermittently to not fully go into battery which resulted in intermittent light strikes that has been a pain in the ass to figure out.  So either get the conefit guide rod or know that every few thousand rounds there will be some burrs to file down and polish caused by the unsupported standard guide rod.

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Very nice videos.  Black finger nail,  bandaids and all !

 

You do things slightly differently, probably due to left hand vs right.  No big deal.

 

The thing you missed is showing the lubrication done during assembly.  I grease the bolo pin and hole, that holds it from falling out.  i also grease the sear, hammer hooks, strut and spring.

 

The plunger gets oil. Except the head / trigger bar mating surface gets grease.

 

Everything else (except firing pin area)  gets a film of oil. Rails get more than a film. I tend to like them more wet and sloppy than some. 

 

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I haven't watched the videos yet since I'm on mobile with almost no data left.  But what is the best way to decide hammer spring weight for your ammo?  

 

Based on primer choice?   I've seen it mentioned before but not run across a list of weights to primer types.  At least as a best guess since very gun is different

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Primer used is one major element. Of about 15 others !   really hard primers like those from Europe etc, may need an EG medium, ir PD 15.5. Cci usually will pop with a wolf 14, pd15.5 or pd14.  With preparation  it can be lower.  Winchester will pop with pd14, pd 13, eg light, wolff 14 wolff 13 (usually).  With decent prep, PD 12 will pop Winchester.  PD 10 needs federal match.

But ... with poor prep, tight chamber, poor lube, "sloppy" ammo... it might take a hammer spring 1 or 2 steps higher than listed.  best advice, buy one of each pd 12, 13, 14, 15.5 and EG medium and see what pops .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Great job man!  It takes a lot of time to put these videos together and it will truly help everyone setting up these guns for the first time.  I learned a couple of cool ideas like using the Glock tool that I hadn't seen yet in my experience working on these guns.  Thanks for putting in the effort, its very much appreciated!

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6 hours ago, ScottieShootz said:

what is the best way to decide hammer spring weight for your ammo?  

 

Based on primer choice?   I've seen it mentioned before but not run across a list of weights to primer types.  At least as a best guess since every gun is different 

 

There are three variables that make this a tough answer:

 

1. The variation from gun to gun. It's a factor, but the smallest one.

 

2. What parts you have installed in the gun. Various hammers, firing pins, disconnectors, and which firing pin return spring. Those all matter, along with how well it's polished and how your firing pin block is fit. A gun with a bolo won't hit as hard in DA, but if it's fit with a Titan hammer and the PD firing pin and spring, that all seems to more than balance out. 

 

Additionally, how well your gun is polished and lubed matters. So does a properly fit firing pin block and having the chamber reamed.

 

3. Ammo quality. What kind of reloading press do you use, and which brand of primer? A CCI absolutely buried .008" below flush on a 1050 will go off more easily than a Winchester than is only flush with the back of the case. 

 

A gun like mine with a Titan and Bolo and all the other sexy parts will run on a spring as likely as the 12 pound PD spring with Winchester primers... if a press is used which buries in the primer pockets without any variation. 

 

However I load on a 650, and they don't seat primers that consistently - along with there being no method for adjustment. I also load CCI Magnum primers which are very hard. Consequently, I use the EGD Medium which is a 16.5lb spring.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Very well done.  I have a Witness Match in 10mm I will be working on.  I usually have a lot of problems getting that sear cage back in and will have to try your technique to see if that helps.  I also heard that polishing the stock parts, primarily the sear and hammer, can quickly go through the surface hardening and result in very rapid wear.  Guess I can use my stock parts as a learning tool and just replace them as they wear out.  Is this reasonable or a fools errand?

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50 minutes ago, DougM said:

Very well done.  I have a Witness Match in 10mm I will be working on.  I usually have a lot of problems getting that sear cage back in and will have to try your technique to see if that helps.  I also heard that polishing the stock parts, primarily the sear and hammer, can quickly go through the surface hardening and result in very rapid wear.  Guess I can use my stock parts as a learning tool and just replace them as they wear out.  Is this reasonable or a fools errand?

One piece sear makes it easier. 

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great video! Thanks for taking the time to make it and explain everything. What type of grease do you guys use? Also what's the best way to fully clean out the firing pin hole after polishing?

Edited by HawkMoney
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14 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

There are three variables that make this a tough answer:

 

1. The variation from gun to gun

 

2. What parts you have installed in the gun.

 

3. Ammo quality.

 

Cheers mate!  I was just curious based off doing your recommendations and what a starting base is.   I definitely understand it's like a recoil spring on an open gun, tuning adjusts which you need so buy the variety pack to tune on. 

 

I'm  looking to start some production fun and I'm terrible about buying everything and trying it out. So instead of having a $3000 production gun I'm trying to budget/plan this out right. Lol

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Those videos are great.

 

I was on the EAA Parts website and didn't see the exact one piece sear to order for a Stock 3

Did you mean any of the 1 pc sears, or do you like the one from EAA specificallly (I see PD and Henning/EGW have one piece sears listed).

"Minimum suggestions" (I plan to follow the minimum parts for now to keep costs low and get into the platform)

Single piece sear from EAA (Xtreme not needed)

 

I also PM'd MemphisMechani what he thought about polishing the factory sear/hammer since many say it's 'softer metal'. I see others have the same questions so I'll ask it here as well to keep the info going.

 

The vids and info are great, really appreciate your time to help others.

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