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My Shadow 2 modifications


rowdyb

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1 minute ago, kmanick said:

a few people have stated the trigger feels "mushy" with the reduced power trigger spring

I’m usually mashing that sucker so fast I don’t have time to think about it lol.

 

I’d agree with that statement though as it is weaker so the force to move it is less than a stock spring. 

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3 minutes ago, kmanick said:

S2 disco just arrived from Cajun. I don't have any files or a dremel what do you guys recommend in case I do have to  fit it?

Get some files at minimum, needle files are cheap and work great in my experience. 

 

Dremel can get get carried away real fast, so if you go that route.... well don’t, it can ruin your part quick!

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Just added to my 2 week old S2: CGW extended FP and spring, 11.5# hammer spring, CGW floating trigger pin and reduced power trigger return spring. Didn't polish anything.

 

Before work (wheeler digital trigger gauge) SA = 3# 0 oz average, three pulls. DA = 8# 10 oz average.

 

After CGW parts install: SA = 2# 2 oz average. DA = 5# 13 oz average.

 

Mission accomplished, reduced DA pull to manageable. Feels great now, very pleased.

 

I will add my S2 had approx 300 rounds thru it prior to parts add. And a lot of dry fire on a snap cap. The stock mechanism was getting smoother every day before the CGW parts, and was much better than day one, fresh out the box, as expected.

Edited by John_
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didn't add the Disco yet , but I must say this thing ran like a champ last night at a USPSA practice session.

The 11# main spring really made a difference with my trigger pull. Last night was the first time I shot at speed where 

my first shot was right on with my SA follow up shot :)

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11# hammer spring is an absolute must. Can't believe people were doing 13# for a while.

 

I still don't quite get how people are getting sub 6# triggers with it though. I practiced yesterday with the 8.5#, and it was so nice in comparison to the 11#. Unfortunately about 5% of the shots would not ignite so back to the 11# for me. Considering going back and redoing polishing work. I can see where parts are starting to smooth out, but I don't think it will actually reduced the DA that much.

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There’s no need but it can certainly be smoothed out.  I also needed to fit mine slightly so after fitting it I polished it again. 

 

In reality you dont have to polish anything but it really does help. I got to handle multiple shadow 2s last weekend and you could feel the degree of work done on them

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1 hour ago, SlvrDragon50 said:


There’s no need to polish the disco as it is treated from CGW.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I meant polishing in general not the disco itself, it's pretty buffed out as is , if It drops right in I won't do anything to it (S2 Disco)

I mean the trigger bar  etc

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2 hours ago, Nathanb said:

 

 

In reality you dont have to polish anything but it really does help. I got to handle multiple shadow 2s last weekend and you could feel the degree of work done on them

 

Look at my results above and i didn't polish a single part, nada. The CGW reduced trigger return spring had to be worth half a pound at least. That CZ spring is stout.

I might have $50 in parts and 30 minutes of my time in it right now. Still have approx 1mm of creep with the stock hammer, but some time down the road I'm gonna do a race hammer and a fitted disco. I can live with the creep and a 2.125 lb SA pull for now.

Edited by John_
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I'm actually very pleased with where the trigger is right now, the only thing I want to lose is that takeup/creep in single action mode

If I can get rid of that I am good to go

Edited by kmanick
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2 hours ago, kmanick said:

I'm actually very pleased with where the trigger is right now, the only thing I want to lose is that takeup/creep in single action mode

If I can get rid of that I am good to go

 

You can get rid of it by installing a competition hammer from either CZC or CGW.

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which hammer? and do I need to install the adjustable sear? (which has me horrified watching videos reassembly that sear block)

I may grab another hammer strut and leave the stock one intact and add the S2 disco and race hammer to  my 2nd stut(9 bucks )

as long as I have the pins I should be all set. that way if I mess up the disco I can drop the stock assembly right back in

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30 minutes ago, kmanick said:

which hammer? and do I need to install the adjustable sear? (which has me horrified watching videos reassembly that sear block)

I may grab another hammer strut and leave the stock one intact and add the S2 disco and race hammer to  my 2nd stut(9 bucks )

as long as I have the pins I should be all set. that way if I mess up the disco I can drop the stock assembly right back in

The sear is easy, it’s a pin a spring and 2 pieces. If you need help getting it back together shoot me a PM and I can help. Once you do it one time you’ll be fine

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7 hours ago, kmanick said:

which hammer? and do I need to install the adjustable sear? (which has me horrified watching videos reassembly that sear block)

I may grab another hammer strut and leave the stock one intact and add the S2 disco and race hammer to  my 2nd stut(9 bucks )

as long as I have the pins I should be all set. that way if I mess up the disco I can drop the stock assembly right back in

 

Get the 10035 competition hammer. This hammer requires the OEM sear to be fitted to the safety leg in order for it to work properly. If you decide to go with, remove material little by little and test fit every time you remove some. 

 

Or you can get the RHK race hammer kit from CGW which is a drop in option for your gun. 

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so I'll probably get the kit ,so how do you adjust the sear? is this another take it out /put it in  rinse repeat project?

I can't seem to find a vidoeothat shows this particular mod (adjusting the sear)

 

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1 minute ago, kmanick said:

so I'll probably get the kit ,so how do you adjust the sear? is this another take it out /put it in  rinse repeat project?

I can't seem to find a vidoeothat shows this particular mod (adjusting the sear)

 

 

CGW is pretty good about putting written instructions in with their pieces, especially with the adjustable parts. 

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1 hour ago, kmanick said:

so I'll probably get the kit ,so how do you adjust the sear? is this another take it out /put it in  rinse repeat project?

I can't seem to find a vidoeothat shows this particular mod (adjusting the sear)

 

 

Yes, it’s a take it out/ put it in process to ensure proper figment and operation.

 

Just go with the RHK race hammer kit. It’s a lot easier to install and more forgiving compared to just using the 10035 hammer. The kit comes with the competition hammer and adjustable sear. The adjustable sear has a set screw on it for adjustment. Once you get it adjusted properly, make sure you put a dab of the red loctite that comes with the kit.

 

If you run into any problems, just give CGW a call and they’ll help you out. They have a great customer service.

Edited by George16
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Hmm, so just pulled out my trigger pull gauge, and my Shadow 2 is still measuring ~6.75-7lbs DA pull with a 11.5# spring. I thought it would have lessened by now considering it has had several thousand trigger pulls from dry fire and live fire. That said, I know someone over on CZ Firearms measured trigger pull after each polishing stage and found that there was no real decrease in trigger pull due to polishing alone.

 

Any suggestions where else to look to reduce the DA pull?

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16 minutes ago, SlvrDragon50 said:

Hmm, so just pulled out my trigger pull gauge, and my Shadow 2 is still measuring ~6.75-7lbs DA pull with a 11.5# spring. I thought it would have lessened by now considering it has had several thousand trigger pulls from dry fire and live fire. That said, I know someone over on CZ Firearms measured trigger pull after each polishing stage and found that there was no real decrease in trigger pull due to polishing alone.

 

Any suggestions where else to look to reduce the DA pull?

It can make a little difference to evenly decrease the trigger bar spring tension by slightly bending them downwards. If you take to much DA might start falling into halfcock or SA not resetting. The you just bend it a little upwards to increase the pressure. I would also recommend a 9 or 10 lbs main spring.

Edited by Ludde
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