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Open gun with Cracked slide.


glockman75

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21 minutes ago, sarpau said:

 

2 questions,

1) would a shock buff help in any way

2) why not WAC?

 

1) No

2) Personally not a fan.  I found it to be too far on the fast end, inappropriate for major, and harsh as hell on my guns.  It also embedded something into my finger.  Many, many open shooters love it.  I avoid it, we don't get along.

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46 minutes ago, theWacoKid said:

It seems we hear about STI slides being a little more prone to cracking than other brands.  The cracking comes from the repeated crash of the slide into the frame.  My two best bits of advice for easing abuse on an open gun is to run as much spring as you can and avoid WAC.  

 

Yes indeed.  I use a 35# spring in my Open gun and have never had the slide crack.

 

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4 hours ago, abb1 said:

I have to question their 'warranty'. I know a shooter that spent $5,800 US on a new CK Arms race gun. It jammed like a mother and it was pretty much unshootable. He wanted to send it back, and their response was that it needs a 'break-in' period and they would not take it back until after it has had 5000 rounds through it. He put the gun up for sale taking a loss. After hearing that, I won't touch them.......EVER! If I spend $5,800 on a new gun, I would expect it to be flawless!

As far as cracked slides, using 9mm major at high pressures WILL break a lightened slide over time. Yes, a lightened slide looks cool, but it will not hold up to the constant pressures of 9mm major. To me, the advantages of a lightened slide does not outweigh its shortened life cycle. Also, if you have a lightened slide, you can also shoot minor at practice (PF 145-155), and major for matches. This is simple and will prolong the life of your gun considerably.

 

 

Indeed, it does say $5800 US.  That's a whole lotta CK. 

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11 minutes ago, theWacoKid said:

Good: HS-6.  Better: 3N38.  Best: No. 7.

 

It seems to depend on the gun.  One of mine (38sc) likes 3n38 best, HS6 second (but a little bouncy).  WAC is very bouncy.  The other one (different make, 9 major) likes 3n38 best, WAC and 3n37 next, HS6 third.  I've not experienced any problems with any of them "battering" the gun (no signs other than normal wear, with 7-8# recoil springs and 30k rounds combined). 

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16 hours ago, tyler2you said:

 

It happens fairly frequently, but 15K rounds is pretty early.  It's hard to say if the builder contributed without some more detail.  Where is the crack?  How much lightening was done and where?  Flat top or tri-top?  Most of the cracked slides I have seen happen just aft of the ejection port.  Tri-topping seems to accelerate that occurrence.  If the crack happened near a lightening cut, the smith may have taken out too much or in the wrong spot or not radiused the corners properly.  Hard to say without pictures.

 

I've had one slide crack behind the ejection port and another at the front of the firing pin tunnel.  The one that cracked at the back of the ejection port was a fairly high round count gun that was tri-topped.  The one that cracked at the firing pin tunnel was only after around 10K rounds, but it's still running and doesn't seem to be getting any worse.  Unfortunately, it's going to happen sooner or later with an Open Gun as slides and barrels are consumables.

I just posted pictures.  Take a look let me know what you think.

 

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16 hours ago, js1130146 said:

Pretty much everything on an open gun is a consumable.

 

Open major is very violent and very rough on guns. Be prepared to replace basically every part of your gun over it's lifetime.

This seems to be what I'm hearing from most Open shooters.  I didn't realize that they are breaking so frequently.  As soon as I mention that it happened most people admit that it has happened to them and in some cases more than once.  I am really starting to wonder about shooting a minor load for practice and local matches and just register as minor so that I don't have to worry about cheating or having an unfair advantage over someone else.  This minor load would save the parts from beating themselves to death and possibly help by rewarding me for shooting high points during relatively easy matches (our local matches aren't all that tough compared to regional or national matches).

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13 minutes ago, glockman75 said:

I just posted pictures.  Take a look let me know what you think.

 

I think that thinning the slide around the ejection port like that was a bad idea.  Not enough weight saving to make that worthwhile and it's the area most prone to cracking.

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15 minutes ago, glockman75 said:

I am really starting to wonder about shooting a minor load for practice and local matches

That is an option I suppose. However, a minor load won't prevent breakages, at best it might slow wear somewhat. Open is all about running the ragged edge to eek out every advantage. Most of us just accept the fact that open is not a cheap division to shoot. And live with having to replace parts. 

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18 minutes ago, tyler2you said:

I think that thinning the slide around the ejection port like that was a bad idea.  Not enough weight saving to make that worthwhile and it's the area most prone to cracking.

Exactly, these new cuts they are making on the slides thins the metal to much for the amount of weight they save. Thinning down the material instead of making a full cut in another location for equal weight savings is not a good idea. There is a bunch of reasons the cuts made on that particular slide were a bad Idea, but there is also another cause to this crack. The cuts may have helped speed the process but they were not the main cause, and shock buffs are only a bandaid to an improperly tuned gun. The slide should never contact that area of the gun or it will fail, cut or not. 

Edited by 357SIG
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I'm an experienced shooter that has many guns and I have been shooting a long time.  I've never had any issues with guns breaking.  I've had thumb safeties break and that's about it.

So I had an Open Gun custom built to my specifications.  This is not about trashing the builder and I do not want to name any names.  If you figure it out please don't ask or list the name of the builder.

My new open gun that is 6 months old with 15k rounds now has a cracked slide. Its an STI frame and slide.

9mm major.  Major load of 124 grain JHP 6.7 WAC 1.145.  

How often does this happen?

The gunsmith is fitting a new slide, barrel and comp.  I'm paying for the parts and the labor is under warranty.

How does this sound to you guys?

Is this warranty typical for the industry?

I've heard about many cracked Limited and Open slides.  What's the deal?  Seems like it's happening a lot.

 

 

IMO that sounds like the warranty from an individual gunsmith which is normal. It is not typical for a major gun supplier Unless the gun has been modifies i.e. Extra slide lighting... I was surprised to see metal taken off around the ejection port looks cool but to each his own. I would have to ask the gunsmith why they are changing barrell and comp. Welcome to the fun and cost of open division.

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3 hours ago, Ssanders224 said:

Eh.  Guns break.

Between my wife and I we rebuild at least one gun every season due to a crack. 

I've cracked 3 limited gun slides in the last 4 years.  Different builders, one STI slide, 2 Caspian. 

 

It sucks, but its part of the game. 

Your slides break because they are scared of you!  

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I tend to agree that panel cut/pocket cut around the ejection port area likely contributed to the slide cracking. I would not get that same cut done on the new slide if it were mine... it's the weakest part of the slide (between ejection port and bottom of the rail there) and thinning it down further is going to cause it to be weaker still.  

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44 minutes ago, BeerBaron said:

I tend to agree that panel cut/pocket cut around the ejection port area likely contributed to the slide cracking. I would not get that same cut done on the new slide if it were mine... it's the weakest part of the slide (between ejection port and bottom of the rail there) and thinning it down further is going to cause it to be weaker still.  

I understand and agree.  The strength of the slide will be a big consideration from this point on.  The new slide is going to look like an STI Grandmaster.  Just plain and simple.  I want to shoot lots of rounds.  I no longer really care how cool it looks and I am now reluctant to ask for lightening of any sort. L

Thanks all for the input.  This has been helpful.  I'm glad that the gunsmith is helping me out.  He's a good guy.  I can't wait to start shooting open again.  Hopefully for a much longer stretch!

DVC

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16 hours ago, cecil said:

Just wondering ...  would a shok buff help prevent a slide from cracking ??

Fwiw I installed one and my slide cracked that day. No more buffs for me. We've had several sti dvc's crack. Full replacement by sti warranty. They sent me a whole new gun. 

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I've cracked many slides and broken just about every part of my guns over the years.  It is just part of the game and why we need at least two.  I hate figuring out that a slide lasted x amount of rounds... so I don't keep track very well.  I use a gunsmith that's top notch, local, and doesn't charge me too much (sponsorship!) so I just keep breaking them, and he keeps fixing them.  We get along great.  I do believe, based on my very loose records and what the gunsmith says that CK Arms' slides last longer. 

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15 minutes ago, Glock26Toter said:

... I do believe, based on my very loose records and what the gunsmith says that CK Arms' slides last longer. 

 

That's interesting.  I looked at my Hardcore last night and noted that there are no slide cuts anywhere near the ejection port.  Maybe it'll last longer. 

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When pushing mechanical components to the limit of their function stuff will break. It's not a matter of "If" it will break, its only a matter of "When" it will break.

 

Spending extra money on custom slide cuts, special designs on the slide, or expensive coatings on Open guns is a high risk of wasting money. Sure it looks cool when its new, but when it breaks you will be extremely butt hurt because all that extra $$$ went down the drain.

 

I learned long ago that competition guns need to be treated like the tools they are designed to be. They are basically hammers and get treated as such in competition shooting environments. If the hammer in your tool box gets scratched, dented, or breaks you really don't care because its doing a hard job. When a hammer breaks, you throw it away and get a new one. Competition guns are basically no different. The only difference is that we can rebuild them as needed when things break verses throwing the whole thing away.    

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1 hour ago, CHA-LEE said:

When pushing mechanical components to the limit of their function stuff will break. It's not a matter of "If" it will break, its only a matter of "When" it will break.

 

Spending extra money on custom slide cuts, special designs on the slide, or expensive coatings on Open guns is a high risk of wasting money. Sure it looks cool when its new, but when it breaks you will be extremely butt hurt because all that extra $$$ went down the drain.

 

I learned long ago that competition guns need to be treated like the tools they are designed to be. They are basically hammers and get treated as such in competition shooting environments. If the hammer in your tool box gets scratched, dented, or breaks you really don't care because its doing a hard job. When a hammer breaks, you throw it away and get a new one. Competition guns are basically no different. The only difference is that we can rebuild them as needed when things break verses throwing the whole thing away.    

Yep

Blue slide, with scallop cut in the back, lightening on the front for weight removal and its what I use to unload and show clear/

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