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How Far Do You Zero Your AR in 3 Gun?


BoyGlock
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  • 2 weeks later...

200yard zero is best yard zero

 

no matter what the zero you will have to know your holdovers for the 5 to 15 yard close in stuff, then beyond that you are within 2 inches out past to 240 yards.

 

also it is the zero I use for every rifle so all of my offsets are basically the same.

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  • 4 months later...

Zero at 50, verify dope at all other distances I plan to shoot. 50 is not 200, but it's pretty damn close and makes remembering the curve for .223 pretty easy. Only time you have to hold over is up close or past 200.

For everyone talking about zeroing at 200 and beyond, you may want to take a look at what the PRS guys are doing. There's a reason they all have 100 yard zeroes.

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21 minutes ago, RAINY0DAYS said:


For everyone talking about zeroing at 200 and beyond, you may want to take a look at what the PRS guys are doing. There's a reason they all have 100 yard zeroes.

Because they dial for everything possible so it doesn't matter where they zero.

Or so they tell me.

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Because they dial for everything possible so it doesn't matter where they zero.
Or so they tell me.
Yep, and because going much past that just introduces more variables such as wind, temp, etc.

Zero at 50 or 200, it doesn't matter. I can shoot the same groups with either zero. But 50 is a hell of a lot easier to repeat and not have to worry about having a perfect windless day to zero.

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If you are having wind affect your bullet path much at 200, you are either shooting in a gale force wind, or shooting really light bullets. My ballistics say not quite 2 inches at 10mph direct cross...  So any horizontal stringing within 2 inches is considered nil to me when rezeroing at 200 after putting it on paper at 50.

50 is NOT 200, any slight error at 50 will show up at 200. If you don't shoot 200 or beyond don't bother. But if you are using a rifle at rifle distances, you will be better off to check and re-zero at 200, once you have done the first step of getting on at 50.

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25 minutes ago, RiggerJJ said:

50 is NOT 200, any slight error at 50 will show up at 200. 

Absolutely. I just recently wasted a bit of ammo learning this the hard way. 

I've always done the 50=200 zero with acceptable results but the one time during load development I didn't fine tune at 200 yards I sent a lot of rounds to 500 trying to figure out why things weren't truing up with my ballistics calculator or BDC reticle. Turns out a 50yd zero is just too coarse, I checked it at 200 and realized how far off I was, fine tuned it at 200 and now all of the sudden all my chrono numbers, BC numbers, reticle and Strelok are working in perfect harmony with my impacts out to 500 yards.

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Which is why I say to verify at distance. Very rarely do I ever find I have to make an adjustment after a 50yd zero though. If I'm zeroed at 50, verified at 200-400 and beyond, what is the point of rezeroing at 200? There is none other than just making things harder on yourself. All you're doing is introducing more variables and possible shooter error.

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Some of my ballistics on different guns show that with a 200 yard zero my poi at 50 can be off by as much as 3/4 of an inch. Imagine what kind of error at 200 that would be if I zeroed at 50 and just left it. Just like Tony says above...

 

We are saying pretty much the same thing I think, but I go even further. I don't think I'm going to induce any error...

I "zero" (put it on close) at 50 then zero at 200. I just prefer to put it on at 200, then verify at longer. I even us a 6 inch high by 4 foot long calibration bar made of steel at extreme distance, (600 for a 223, 800 for 308 or a precision gun) to correct my ballistics chart and zero...

 

I want all of my competitors to zero at 50 and leave it... ;)

 

All of this is done with elevation only. I will pick a calm wind day to zero the windage, at as far as I can, but at least 200.

 

And to make it even more confusing, for my iron sight rifles I zero at 300...

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

300 for iron sights is mandatory, not just a good idea!

200 minimum for a scope.

In general, the more sight to bore offset, the farther you should go.....and yes people can and do shoot groups at 300..... any of you steely eyed 3-gunners ever heard of Hi-Power or Service Rifle matches?? 😏

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Myself, if I'm running a 2 MOA red dot, I zero at 300/25 yards. the most the time I'm running my Burris Mtac1-4 AR and a zero at 100 yards For long range precision. I zero at 300 yards, run,  strelok pro 4.7.4

Edited by usmc1974
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  • 6 months later...
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  • 1 year later...

Depends a bit on the optic but I generally zero at 200 yards. If you had a very small target at 100 yards you would have to hold slightly low but for most targets out to 250 yards a 200 yard zero works great.

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  • 2 weeks later...

People keep saying their zero as if just that single number (50,100,200) means anything. The speed of your bullet as it leaves the barrel and what your scope reticule looks like (is it BDC, MOA, Mils) is what informs your zero. You want to match those hashes for as close to round numbers as you can get, for example 300,400,500,550,600. For me, with my bullets and an MOA reticule that means adjusting to a 155yd zero after putting all my data into strelok and originally zeroing at 200.

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