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Redding Competition Bullet Seating Die

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I have a very similar setup 190gr Ibejheads round nose, lee u die, lee fcd die but with a normal Redding seating die.  No issues other than the occasional round not going in straight and not passing the hundo.  But going off fine in the gun. 1-2%- not worth worrying about 

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On 2/11/2017 at 6:47 PM, rooster said:

 

I just purchased this die and I am not fully convinced that this video is correct in the way the day is set up.

 

this die is designed to hold the entire case, for example, so I would have started by seating the body all the way down until touching the loader plate and then, with the micrometer extended out to the maximum setting I wouls find my correct oal.

 

i think that by not using the die body fully you will get scraped cases as shown in this thread, as your die can’t fully align the brass before seating the bullet.

 

Also, the whole point of having a micrometer is being able to start from zero and not use a guess-stimation.

 

Please correct me if I am wrong, as I am going to be setting this die soon and might even do a new video If I find a better way to set it up.

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If you follow his instructions the die body almost touches the shell plate when he’s done. Which is what the instructions that come with the die say. What the instructions don’t tell you is about making the bell larger than the die id so that the case is supported while bullet is being seated. The Redding instructions leave much to be desired, and that video so far has the best set up that I could find.

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5 hours ago, rooster said:

If you follow his instructions the die body almost touches the shell plate when he’s done. Which is what the instructions that come with the die say. What the instructions don’t tell you is about making the bell larger than the die id so that the case is supported while bullet is being seated. The Redding instructions leave much to be desired, and that video so far has the best set up that I could find.

 

Yes I agree with this, however when he is done the die isnt touching the die and it is a bit short.

the die body in my opion should not be moved after it touches the plate (almost touching) and all the other settings should be done by the micro meter.

 

I will do some experimentingand report back.

 

 

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I also couldn’t figure out why he has you stop threading the main die body when the insert starts to raise. Which was difficult to see. I put a pencil on it and when it moved I stopped and then followed the remainder of his instructions. But then you end up turning the die down again anyway. Also he did not go into using the zero feature. I might try to contact him. His other videos are pretty good.

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I just rewatched his video and when he is finished the die almost down to shell plate. The Redding instructions tell you to kiss the shell plate and then back off till you can easily read micrometer. So you may have to back up at least one turn if you cannot read micrometer. If you want to stay right on shellplate then you might have to change your position to read. You do not have to be all the way down. The die body has kept the case rigid through the whole seat process. That little bit of being off the plate is not going to effect anything.

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6 hours ago, rooster said:

I just rewatched his video and when he is finished the die almost down to shell plate. The Redding instructions tell you to kiss the shell plate and then back off till you can easily read micrometer. So you may have to back up at least one turn if you cannot read micrometer. If you want to stay right on shellplate then you might have to change your position to read. You do not have to be all the way down. The die body has kept the case rigid through the whole seat process. That little bit of being off the plate is not going to effect anything.

 

That is correct however his instructions seem backwards. There is also no need to start with the micrometer at 1500 (as he has suggested. 

It is just seems and odd way to set up this die, I am just waiting for bullets to try this myself.

 

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I just tried both methods:

using the video and secondly just screwing the die down down and finding a setting with the micro meter.

it is about the same.

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Setting up the Redding die should be easy. Screw the die body down until it touches the shell plate. Back it out until it's aligned to you prefered markings orientation. Back out the micrometer and seat a bullet, adjust the micrometer until the seating depth is to your preference. If you get brass shavings, use less flare. If you can't use less flare without shaving the bullet switch to .400 bullets. That video is far more complicated than it needs to be and if you have an interference fit between the brass and the shell you're going to have tons of brass shavings on your shell plate. 40SW should be a painless cartridge to reload.

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One thing that happened to me is that if the (nub), I don’t know what you would call it. It’s the metal thing controlled by the set screw. If that is flush so that it doesn’t contact seating stem, your reading on the micrometer will be really low. At least it was for me in loading 9 mm, trying to get an oal of 1.120. So I had to screw it out a few thousandths to get me in the range that I needed. Also the instructions at least for me are not very clear on how to use it. If someone can explain better please do.

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Posted (edited)

Per Lyman M die instructions: "Cast bullet reloaders should use this die to prevent shaving of bullet metal during the seating operation."   

 

 

Edited by sx2gl35
To remove personal opinion.

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Posted (edited)

I had the same issue with Redding seating dies loading both 9mm and 40sw while using coated bullets. I never was able to resolve it. I just switched to dillon seating dies. 

Edited by cheby

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Posted (edited)

 

On 4/20/2019 at 3:48 PM, sx2gl35 said:

Per Lyman M die instructions: "Cast bullet reloaders should use this die to prevent shaving of bullet metal during the seating operation."   

 

 

 

I agree 100% on using the Lyman type "M" expander dies for straight inline seating.

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The Lyman type "M" expander die insures straight inline bullet seating.

 

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And after looking at the video and the chewed up lock rings I advise using soft jawed pliers.

 

plzbMHm.jpg

 

Also wet tumbling may have peened the case mouth and the rolled over edge of the case mouth caused the scraping.

 

Edited by bigedp51

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Another quick note, the patent for the Lyman type "M" expander expired and Redding now makes dies with the same type expander.

 

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The Redding Premium Expander die contains the unique Redding expander plug now coated in TiN, Titanium Nitride for added surface hardness, lubricity and durability. The TiN coating will also reduce brass build up on the expander as well, an important improvement for high volume reloaders. What makes the Redding Expander unique is the series of processes it provides as it travels into the case itself. First a radius on its base eases entry into the case mouth.  Next a parallel expander section expands and true’s the case internally to create a perfect bearing surface for the bullet as it is seated. This also adds a more uniform bullet pull and start pressure as well.  Next is a small step, to properly align the bullet with the centerline of the cartridge case. This positions the bullet for proper contact with the seating micrometer, adding uniformity during actual seating process. Lastly, a flare is the final step on the Redding expander plug to further open the case mouth when using cast bullets so that they do not shave lead during the seating process.

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I put the Mr Bulletfeeder powder thru expander and it completely eliminated my issue. 

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