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NoKimberDave

Tactical Sport Orange technical thread.

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13 minutes ago, loaded605 said:

 


I went the same route, G35 to TSO.

If it is the newer TSO that comes with the extended Shadow 2 safety and mag release, and you get the CZ Custom extended safety you’ll need the old style TS LHS safety to fit with it. If you don’t it will fly off. Mine did. Or if you can find the extended Shadow 2 RHS safety that will work.

 

 

how do you tell the difference? Is there a measurement to take?

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9 hours ago, 07yzryder said:

 

how do you tell the difference? Is there a measurement to take?

 

Since you bought it used I’d bet that it has the CZC extended safety, especially since it has their magwell as well. 

Edited by regor

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If it's the TSO with the silver grips, that appears to be a CZC safety that has been modified/shaped a little bit.  Safety is definitely old school TS/TSO, not the S2 design.

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how do you tell the difference? Is there a measurement to take?

Sorry, missed your reply. Looking at the pic it is the old style. You’ll be good just ordering the extended RHS extended safety. But if you get it and it fits loosely you’ll need to order the LHS TS safety. Mine required filing to make it fit.

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Anyone know where I could find a CZ custom large magwell besides CZC which is out of stock? I was going to have my magwell/frame blended, but wanted to move up to the larger magwell before any filing hoping for a better fit before blending. 
 

 

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New TSO 9mm owner here. Shot her yesterday for the first time, what a machine!

A question about recoil springs, I'll be running factory 115 and/or 124gr for some competitions that require really quick target transitions/ followup shots, like bowling pin matches. Can I safely run the 13lb spring or should I stick with the 16lb?

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Run the 13lb recoil spring. Everything will be fine. I run lower with a 40 S&W.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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8 hours ago, Independence said:

New TSO 9mm owner here. Shot her yesterday for the first time, what a machine!

A question about recoil springs, I'll be running factory 115 and/or 124gr for some competitions that require really quick target transitions/ followup shots, like bowling pin matches. Can I safely run the 13lb spring or should I stick with the 16lb?

I ran 10 and 11 lb springs. Of course, it was with my reloads. Anytime I would run a lighter spring, I would make sure I used the buffer.

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15 hours ago, BLUEPSTU said:

I ran 10 and 11 lb springs. Of course, it was with my reloads. Anytime I would run a lighter spring, I would make sure I used the buffer.

Ok. The factory ammo I'll run has a PF of ~130 (Blaser 115 FMJ). Seems like I could try both the 11lb & 13lb springs and see what my sight picture recovery time looks like.

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11 hours ago, Independence said:

Ok. The factory ammo I'll run has a PF of ~130 (Blaser 115 FMJ). Seems like I could try both the 11lb & 13lb springs and see what my sight picture recovery time looks like.

Yeah, that is about the same as my reloads. Let us know what you think.

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I’d like to know how many people use the recoil buffer? 
 

Mine was starting to fail, so I removed it and have been running without one since. Cajun gunworks recommends not running the buffer...little benefit for the risk of failing or short stroking the slide. 

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On 3/13/2020 at 11:23 AM, Independence said:

Ok. The factory ammo I'll run has a PF of ~130 (Blaser 115 FMJ). Seems like I could try both the 11lb & 13lb springs and see what my sight picture recovery time looks like.

In my .40, I shoot 170ish PF and use the 13 lb spring. The 16 lb spring was giving me a lot of nose bounce  

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3 minutes ago, Mig233 said:

I’d like to know how many people use the recoil buffer? 
 

Mine was starting to fail, so I removed it and have been running without one since. Cajun gunworks recommends not running the buffer...little benefit for the risk of failing or short stroking the slide. 

 

I do not use it in my 9mm with 125 pf loads for 3 gun. I swear the impulse feels better without it, might just be in my mind though. 

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I didn’t notice a difference in recoil. But removing it just removes one more component to break. So if it’s not necessary it’s gotta go! KISS

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1 hour ago, Blockader said:

 

I do not use it in my 9mm with 125 pf loads for 3 gun. I swear the impulse feels better without it, might just be in my mind though. 

You are probably right.

And I feel that every time a Skoda taxi goes past me my  TSO shouts hello bro.😉

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On 3/19/2020 at 4:06 AM, yigal said:

You are probably right.

And I feel that every time a Skoda taxi goes past me my  TSO shouts hello bro.😉

 

I swear half of your 1300 posts are making Skoda references.

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4 hours ago, Hennig said:

 

I swear half of your 1300 posts are making Skoda references.

😀

I'm just saving to buy a car like that.😉

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CZs and Skoda's are two of Yigal's most desired things in this world :)

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58 minutes ago, muncie21 said:

CZs and Skoda's are two of Yigal's most desired things in this world :)

i like both of them.  cz much cheaper 😉

The Skoda is much more expensive so I started purchasing it each part separately😀

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3 hours ago, yigal said:

i like both of them.  cz much cheaper 😉

The Skoda is much more expensive so I started purchasing it each part separately😀

🙂 🙂

 

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In my country Skoda'a have a good reputation... have to change my mind ...

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6 hours ago, Fasthenk65 said:

In my country Skoda'a have a good reputation... have to change my mind ...

only with manual gear .with dual clutch  auto system this car is like pandora case.😉

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Morning gentlemen,

 

I believe this is the proper place for this question, but please advise if I need to move it elsewhere;

 

My TSO has, and always did have an incredibly stiff safety.  After 1k rounds, and plenty of couch-time manipulation drills, not much has changed.  I also swapped the lever out to the S2 version, which I like a lot more.

 

That said, is there a consensus on how/where I might begin to polish and smooth bearing surfaces, and will it help?  I was thinking about the ID holes in the frame, and the OD of the matching surfaces of the safety levers.  But I'm also suspicious about the two springs at the back of the sear cage.  Is it possible they are too stiff, and creating excessive friction?  In a perfect world, I'd like my TSO safety lever to feel more like a 1911, in which the friction force is much lower between positions, and the two positions engage with a satisfying "click".  That may not  be possible, but that's the direction I'd like to head.  Right now, my safety is extremely stiff through the entire range of motion, and the "clicks" can't only be heard, and not felt.

 

Any insight would be appreciated.


Thank you

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It should become self-evident once you take apart the gun and watch the safety movement carefully. Do this at various stages of disassembly.

- slide removed

- sear cage removed

- detent removed

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I wouldn’t touch the holes in the frame but rather polish the safety shaft that goes through the holes. If you go too far it’s much cheaper replacing a safety than it is a frame.

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