Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Tactical Sport Orange technical thread.


NoKimberDave

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 907
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

On 12/16/2018 at 11:33 AM, Lee G said:

 

A sear only costs about $12 and I have some extra available so I gave it a shot. Bottom line is it made a huge difference and the reset is so dead on I got paranoid and added about 1/32" of pre travel just to make myself feel better. 

 

what the video is trying to tell you is the surface of the trigger bar and sear leg aren't mated well. bot are fairly rough and the angles are a bit wrong. So basically if you have the sear leg and trigger bar faces parallel and still rough the bar has to move until it doesn't contact the sear leg in order for it to pop up and reset. It basically hangs on the edge of the sear until the last minute. So it looks like this, ||. 

 

If you put a relief cut on the sear leg and make the faces flat and smooth you kind of make a very slight chamfer that allows the trigger bar to rise sooner and stay in contact with the sear leg. So it looks like this /|. Of course this is an exaggerate angle to illustrate the point. Basically you want about 1 degree for each. Think of it like a mag well. In his video he says to put a relief cut on the trigger bar leg too, but I don't think it's necessary. YMMV. 

 

The challenge is making the slight adjustment to the angle without going to far or messing it up. You can probably do it by just applying more pressure to the bottom of the leg with the stone, but it's such a small surface and the body of the sear gets in the way that it's cumbersome. I tried it this way at first and the results weren't great. I happen to have a power custom series I jig with a 1911 adapter. I put the sear on it and rotated the adapter until I had the right angle  and cut it again. Using the jig I was able to be really precise.

 

This time the difference was dramatic. It worked so well I did the same to my SAO shadow that I use for IDPA ESP. Both have almost no pre travel. And really it's just my own paranoia that led me to keep just a hair of pretravel in place.  

Lee,

1.  Did you only modify the sear and leave the trigger bar alone? 

2.  Also, did this change the trigger pull at all?  I have a project to lighten my 9mm TSO just a bit.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, robert.a.brewer. said:

Lee,

1.  Did you only modify the sear and leave the trigger bar alone? 

2.  Also, did this change the trigger pull at all?  I have a project to lighten my 9mm TSO just a bit.

 

1. The sear was the only real modification I did. I did lightly polish the trigger bar, but I didn't change any angles on it.

2. It does nothing to change the weight of the trigger. It just changes the point where the trigger resets allowing you to remove more pre travel. You will have to adjust the over travel screw because the sear will probably lift a hair later. My TSO measures right at 1.5# on my lyman trigger gauge. It's the lightest trigger I have so I'm not going to change the weight. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

This may be a way off topic post, but is anyone willing to put up a comparative posting of each aftermarket magazine baseplate in regards of the factory magwell? I'm considering some options and I'd like to know what fits with the stock magwell, as well as the CZC large magwell. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CZC and springer both work fine with CZ and CZC magwells.

Factory TS mags is almost flush with CZ magwell. 

You won't be able to fully insert a standard TS mag into a CZC magwell with the palm of your hand, the bottom of the mag sits inside the magwell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Team.

I am new here. I am from California. Also, wants to mention that English is not my first language, so I might sound weird, but I do not and never will try to be weird or disrespectful. I hope you guys understand it.

I recently got TSO in 9mm. It is 2019 version. I already try her out and fell in love with it. I did some modification, not really modification, I made my own recoil spring sleeve/bushing. First time I faced with my regular TS and found it really cheapy for my taste, also guide rod on TS was pretty "bad" too. Here I attached some pictures for it. I replace sleeve on my TSO before even first time try her.

 I do have question, if anybody already try to run TSO 9mm without buffer? Do we really need buffers on 9mm? Also, there are two kinds of them-thicker and thinner, which one is better? If we really do not need them, I will not buy extra spare, they are not really cheap-$7 for small piece of polyurethane doesn't look reasonable for me.

 

FzMJhsP.jpg

LjwEvwh.jpg

Edited by Palmaris
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Palmaris

Welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing your TSO mods.  Interested to know what you made the recoil spring plug from?  Looks almost like it was turned on a lathe.  I use the factory plastic one that came with mine, but would be interested in something different.

 

I don't use the recoil buffers in either  my 9mm or .40 S&W TSOs.  I chrono'd my 9mm loads at ~133-135 PF and my .40s at ~170-175.  Even with a light recoil spring I haven't found a need for the buffers.  Who knows, I may regret doing this down the road, however for now the fewer things to go wrong the better.

 

P.S. I wouldn't  stress about English not being your native tongue.  There are native speakers that can really butcher the language, but we accept them all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, muncie21 said:

@Palmaris

Welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing your TSO mods.  Interested to know what you made the recoil spring plug from?  Looks almost like it was turned on a lathe.  I use the factory plastic one that came with mine, but would be interested in something different.

 

I don't use the recoil buffers in either  my 9mm or .40 S&W TSOs.  I chrono'd my 9mm loads at ~133-135 PF and my .40s at ~170-175.  Even with a light recoil spring I haven't found a need for the buffers.  Who knows, I may regret doing this down the road, however for now the fewer things to go wrong the better.

 

P.S. I wouldn't  stress about English not being your native tongue.  There are native speakers that can really butcher the language, but we accept them all.

Thank you Sir.

Yes, I made parts on lathe machine. Material I use hi impact, extra slippery Nylon. I looked all properties before I chose material and found this is most suitable polymer for the purpose.Tensile Strength: 11,000 psi , Impact Strength: 1.2 ft.-lbs./in. There are Nylons with higher numbers, but they have some fillers and those fillers will wear out guide rod. This Nylon can be found here https://www.mcmaster.com/8554k1

Edited by Palmaris
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, muncie21 said:

@Palmaris

Welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing your TSO mods.  Interested to know what you made the recoil spring plug from?  Looks almost like it was turned on a lathe.  I use the factory plastic one that came with mine, but would be interested in something different.

 

Can you tell me please, did you try recoil springs other than originally installed from factory springs on TSO 9mm? If yes, what the difference? I am not competition guy, just recreational papers punching LOL

Edited by Palmaris
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 i used the same polymer for this part for my both tso  . very strong material.

next stage was ss. plug + tungsten guide rod .  i used 14lb  recoil springs for 9mm factory ammo, but now i found that variable springs works much better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, yigal said:

 i used the same polymer for this part for my both tso  . very strong material.

next stage was ss. plug + tungsten guide rod .  i used 14lb  recoil springs for 9mm factory ammo, but now i found that variable springs works much better.

I didn't think about SS plug and tungsten rod. Yeh! Why not? Most likely I will try tools steel and blueing it with hit to oil. I am not sure about tungsten rod-It might to be too brittle. Did you actually have made it already?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Palmaris said:

I didn't think about SS plug and tungsten rod. Yeh! Why not? Most likely I will try tools steel and blueing it with hit to oil. I am not sure about tungsten rod-It might to be too brittle. Did you actually have made it already?

2 years ago. its machinable tungsten material and its not brittle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, yigal said:

2 years ago. its machinable tungsten material and its not brittle.

What has have changed since you start using it? Is it full length guide rod similar to TSO 2019?

Now, making sleeve/pug from SS will add weight to slide, it is actually opposite what people wants-I see everybody make race gun slide lighter.  What is purpose of SS plug?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Palmaris said:

What has have changed since you start using it? Is it full length guide rod similar to TSO 2019?

Now, making sleeve/pug from SS will add weight to slide, it is actually opposite what people wants-I see everybody make race gun slide lighter.  What is purpose of SS plug?

 

i make few plugs from different materials :plastic , ss , brass and 1 from tungsten.

tried to shoot fast  with friend from  the club that have  standard tso and  mine   at 20 yd . with 14 lb recoil spring .jump with heavier  plug and tungsten guide rod  was almost like from open gun.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, yigal said:

i make few plugs from different materials :plastic , ss , brass and 1 from tungsten.

tried to shoot fast  with friend from  the club that have  standard tso and  mine   at 20 yd . with 14 lb recoil spring .jump with heavier  plug and tungsten guide rod  was almost like from open gun.

 

Thank you very much Sir.

I will look into tungsten rod. Plug is not a problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/17/2019 at 7:28 AM, muncie21 said:

CZC and springer both work fine with CZ and CZC magwells.

Factory TS mags is almost flush with CZ magwell. 

You won't be able to fully insert a standard TS mag into a CZC magwell with the palm of your hand, the bottom of the mag sits inside the magwell.

Thanks for the information, been going back and fourth on which pads and magwell to go with!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/10/2018 at 9:27 PM, Sneexies said:

It really all depends on your preference. The set screws fit really nice on the poly trigger without needing loctite. Aluminum you'll definitely need to loctite em. Other than that the aluminum is pretty damn nice. 

what Sneexies said, as far as shootability they aren't much different. The biggest reason I went with the CGW Flat aluminum was to have a flat trigger as opposed to a curved. It really just comes down to personal preference. If you do replace it, I would highly recommend a new trigger pin instead of trying to reuse the stock one.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, clw42 said:

Is the new style (Shadow 2 paddle) mag release available anywhere?  I'd like to get one for my Czechmate.

I ordered one from Seboweapons.com  According to the tracking, I should receive it today or tomorrow. That will put it at about 10 or 11 days coming from Czech Republic, so not bad. Looks like some colors have gone out of stock again, but last time they did, it was only a couple of weeks before he had them again. Haven’t heard of the new style for the TS/CM available from anywhere in the US yet. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, RCFL said:

I ordered one from Seboweapons.com  According to the tracking, I should receive it today or tomorrow. That will put it at about 10 or 11 days coming from Czech Republic, so not bad. Looks like some colors have gone out of stock again, but last time they did, it was only a couple of weeks before he had them again. Haven’t heard of the new style for the TS/CM available from anywhere in the US yet. 

 

I did see them at Sebo, but the color choices weren't anything I'd pick.  I'll keep an eye on them though, and hopefully they'll get some more in stock soon.

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/17/2019 at 10:00 AM, yigal said:

 i used the same polymer for this part for my both tso  . very strong material.

next stage was ss. plug + tungsten guide rod .  i used 14lb  recoil springs for 9mm factory ammo, but now i found that variable springs works much better.

Hello Sir

Do you have picture of your SS plug?

I made one and it doesn’t go all the way. I made step with reduced diameter by 0.010”, still doesn’t go. It looks like “witness bump” from barrel bushing create some issue. On both of my TSs.

Here is mine.

ne2WNkk.jpg

Edited by Palmaris
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Palmaris said:

Hello Sir

Do you have picture of your SS plug?

I made one and it doesn’t go all the way. I made step with reduced diameter by 0.010”, still doesn’t go. It looks like “witness bump” from barrel bushing create some issue. On both of my TSs.

Here is mine.

ne2WNkk.jpg

no i don't have pic.. i can send only by mail. very nice work.

yes .sloppy  work  it's CZ trade mark.😉

i fixed this problem on few tso guns with jig that i made.probably   somebody without any mech. skills assembled  this guns.

on few of them both holes not concentric .but if u go down from, 10mm dia to 9.5mm it will go easily( on slides with not concentric holes)

today i use this part from 303 ss .best results.

Edited by yigal
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, stuey93 said:

Sloppy Safety

My safety has some wiggle in it allowing me to partially engage while firing. Is this a detent spring issue or the spring that rides in the detent on top of the safety? Or something else entirely? Thanks

 

 

welcome  to the cz  club.

i add plunger to my safety after i fixed some cz  worker monday  workmanship.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...