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Tactical Sport Orange technical thread.


NoKimberDave

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my problem isnt pain from the mag release but the ease at which it drops the mag. It seems if my palm even brushes it when i shoot the mag drops. Ive grinded it down to not much more than a nub, but still....any suggestions on how to make the mag HARDER to drop?
 


This may not help, but since squeezing the mag catch spring legs together a bit more helps the mag easier to drop, perhaps spreading the spring legs will make it harder.
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I came across this video about trigger tuning that can be done with the TS series pistols. I've done the set screw adjustments for over travel and reset for my TSO .40 (the previous owner never did this, which I was quite surprised by), but I was wondering if anyone has tried out the ejector springs [starts around 15:10] or the sear/trigger bar tuning [18:00] and can comment on what difference it has made.

 

The ejector springs seem simple enough, but the sear/trigger tuning is confusing to me and seems like it would be easy to mess up and brick a part, so I'm not sure I'd risk trying it unless there is a noticeable positive difference

 

 

 

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I'm not sure what you mean about the ejector springs. There is no adjustment for them. They are in the back, don't lose em when you put the ejector back in. The portion of grease in the hole does help retain them for reassembly.

Let me add a caveat for the over travel screw adjsmt. Don't take all the over travel out, as the video seems to say. When you pull the trigger and thumb the hammer back down, the hammer should not contact the sear or damage will occur. Might try take all the over travel out, then back the screw off by half a turn.

Same goes for the trigger reset, pre travel adjsmt; back off half a turn. At least that's what I needed to do. I caused a problem where it didn't reset after firing every time.

Now, for your question about changing the angles of the sear and trigger bar contact surfaces, I didn't even entertain that thought. I'm too inexperienced, and don't want to cause a problem I can't fix.

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17 hours ago, robert.a.brewer. said:

I'm not sure what you mean about the ejector springs. There is no adjustment for them. They are in the back, don't lose em when you put the ejector back in. The portion of grease in the hole does help retain them for reassembly.

 

I haven't taken the sear cage out of mine. The video gave me the impression that the springs do not ship with the pistol but they can be added as an improvement, I supposed I am mistaken? 

 

17 hours ago, robert.a.brewer. said:

Let me add a caveat for the over travel screw adjsmt. Don't take all the over travel out, as the video seems to say. When you pull the trigger and thumb the hammer back down, the hammer should not contact the sear or damage will occur. Might try take all the over travel out, then back the screw off by half a turn.

Same goes for the trigger reset, pre travel adjsmt; back off half a turn. At least that's what I needed to do. I caused a problem where it didn't reset after firing every time.

 

When I set mine I followed the instructions that came with my CGW reach reduction kit for my SP-01 Tactical, which includes backing them out a little once you find the edge, I agree the way he did it in the video was aggressive. When I adjusted both my TSO and SP-01 I found that point where it just barely breaks to be a very uncomfortable trigger since you feel the trigger feels like it has stopped but you still have a tiny amount of squeeze left before it actually breaks, which feels very unnatural. A quarter to half turn out fixes that. 

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29 minutes ago, regor said:

 

I haven't taken the sear cage out of mine. The video gave me the impression that the springs do not ship with the pistol but they can be added as an improvement, I supposed I am mistaken? 

 

 

When I set mine I followed the instructions that came with my CGW reach reduction kit for my SP-01 Tactical, which includes backing them out a little once you find the edge, I agree the way he did it in the video was aggressive. When I adjusted both my TSO and SP-01 I found that point where it just barely breaks to be a very uncomfortable trigger since you feel the trigger feels like it has stopped but you still have a tiny amount of squeeze left before it actually breaks, which feels very unnatural. A quarter to half turn out fixes that. 

 

The gun ships with the springs at the back of the sear cage. It’s really not that hard to reassemble the sear once you had done it at least once. Instead of a punch, I use a q-tip to hold the spring in place. I slit the tip of the q-tip (remove the cotton or cut it off) and since it’s plastic, it’ll pinch and hold the sear spring.

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1 hour ago, George16 said:

 

The gun ships with the springs at the back of the sear cage. It’s really not that hard to reassemble the sear once you had done it at least once. Instead of a punch, I use a q-tip to hold the spring in place. I slit the tip of the q-tip (remove the cotton or cut it off) and since it’s plastic, it’ll pinch and hold the sear spring.

 

I did the decocker sear cage for the SP-01 Tactical, so I'm not scared of the safety models 😁. I don't see any major reason to disassemble it since purchasing it because I'm not planning on any major parts changes; with the SP-01 I was installing the CGW pro decocker kit so it all had to come apart. 

 

I guess the sear cage bit was totally unnecessary in the video then; it's not really a "tuning" item if it comes installed, so I figured it had to be an add-on since it was mentioned. Thanks for clarifying though! 

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On 12/8/2018 at 11:40 AM, stuey93 said:


Just me or are these really tight?

 

Mine felt really tight fit as well; I was used to being able to press the slide release in with just a my thumb. I'm not sure if the slide stop pins are a tighter fit or if it's just the lack of surface area to push on that makes it feel like a tighter fit. It taps in fine in any case. 

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2 hours ago, Blockader said:

Does anyone have any feedback on the various aluminum flat triggers as opposed to the polymer? 

 

This video points out that the plastic is probably a better choice overall.

 

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2 hours ago, Blockader said:

Does anyone have any feedback on the various aluminum flat triggers as opposed to the polymer? 

It really all depends on your preference. The set screws fit really nice on the poly trigger without needing loctite. Aluminum you'll definitely need to loctite em. Other than that the aluminum is pretty damn nice. 

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40 minutes ago, adamge said:

 

This video points out that the plastic is probably a better choice overall.

 

I believe adjusting the over travel as fine as he demos in the video will cause sear/hammer interference and cause damage. You need to back off the over travel screw until you can't feel any interference while moving the hammer down and back with the trigger held back. 

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On 12/4/2018 at 2:31 PM, regor said:

I came across this video about trigger tuning that can be done with the TS series pistols. I've done the set screw adjustments for over travel and reset for my TSO .40 (the previous owner never did this, which I was quite surprised by), but I was wondering if anyone has tried out the ejector springs [starts around 15:10] or the sear/trigger bar tuning [18:00] and can comment on what difference it has made.

 

The ejector springs seem simple enough, but the sear/trigger tuning is confusing to me and seems like it would be easy to mess up and brick a part, so I'm not sure I'd risk trying it unless there is a noticeable positive difference

 

 

 

 

A sear only costs about $12 and I have some extra available so I gave it a shot. Bottom line is it made a huge difference and the reset is so dead on I got paranoid and added about 1/32" of pre travel just to make myself feel better. 

 

what the video is trying to tell you is the surface of the trigger bar and sear leg aren't mated well. bot are fairly rough and the angles are a bit wrong. So basically if you have the sear leg and trigger bar faces parallel and still rough the bar has to move until it doesn't contact the sear leg in order for it to pop up and reset. It basically hangs on the edge of the sear until the last minute. So it looks like this, ||. 

 

If you put a relief cut on the sear leg and make the faces flat and smooth you kind of make a very slight chamfer that allows the trigger bar to rise sooner and stay in contact with the sear leg. So it looks like this /|. Of course this is an exaggerate angle to illustrate the point. Basically you want about 1 degree for each. Think of it like a mag well. In his video he says to put a relief cut on the trigger bar leg too, but I don't think it's necessary. YMMV. 

 

The challenge is making the slight adjustment to the angle without going to far or messing it up. You can probably do it by just applying more pressure to the bottom of the leg with the stone, but it's such a small surface and the body of the sear gets in the way that it's cumbersome. I tried it this way at first and the results weren't great. I happen to have a power custom series I jig with a 1911 adapter. I put the sear on it and rotated the adapter until I had the right angle  and cut it again. Using the jig I was able to be really precise.

 

This time the difference was dramatic. It worked so well I did the same to my SAO shadow that I use for IDPA ESP. Both have almost no pre travel. And really it's just my own paranoia that led me to keep just a hair of pretravel in place.  

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43 minutes ago, Lee G said:

 

A sear only costs about $12 and I have some extra available so I gave it a shot. Bottom line is it made a huge difference and the reset is so dead on I got paranoid and added about 1/32" of pre travel just to make myself feel better. 

 

what the video is trying to tell you is the surface of the trigger bar and sear leg aren't mated well. bot are fairly rough and the angles are a bit wrong. So basically if you have the sear leg and trigger bar faces parallel and still rough the bar has to move until it doesn't contact the sear leg in order for it to pop up and reset. It basically hangs on the edge of the sear until the last minute. So it looks like this, ||. 

 

If you put a relief cut on the sear leg and make the faces flat and smooth you kind of make a very slight chamfer that allows the trigger bar to rise sooner and stay in contact with the sear leg. So it looks like this /|. Of course this is an exaggerate angle to illustrate the point. Basically you want about 1 degree for each. Think of it like a mag well. In his video he says to put a relief cut on the trigger bar leg too, but I don't think it's necessary. YMMV. 

 

The challenge is making the slight adjustment to the angle without going to far or messing it up. You can probably do it by just applying more pressure to the bottom of the leg with the stone, but it's such a small surface and the body of the sear gets in the way that it's cumbersome. I tried it this way at first and the results weren't great. I happen to have a power custom series I jig with a 1911 adapter. I put the sear on it and rotated the adapter until I had the right angle  and cut it again. Using the jig I was able to be really precise.

 

This time the difference was dramatic. It worked so well I did the same to my SAO shadow that I use for IDPA ESP. Both have almost no pre travel. And really it's just my own paranoia that led me to keep just a hair of pretravel in place.  

 

I'll have to pick up a spare sear and give it a try. Sounds like a worthwhile investment. Unfortunately I'll be stuck with stones/sandpaper.

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Help!!! Need a part for my TSO
I’m looking for those two small springs that go on the rear of the sear cage that fit in the small recesses on the back of the sear cage they apply pressure between the cage and the frame and once dropped disappear forever[emoji37] any help locating them will be greatly appreciated

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10 minutes ago, stuey93 said:

Help!!! Need a part for my TSO
I’m looking for those two small springs that go on the rear of the sear cage that fit in the small recesses on the back of the sear cage they apply pressure between the cage and the frame and once dropped disappear foreveremoji37.png any help locating them will be greatly appreciated

 

https://czcustom.com/ejector-spring-ts.html

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3 minutes ago, stuey93 said:


This is the ejector spring I’m looking for the two little springs that go on the back of the sear. I saw one on cz custom for the po7, but not sure if it will work?

 

 

Right, you're missing the ejector springs that go in the back of the ejector. You're confusing it with the extractor that is in the slide itself. 

 

 

 

Screen Shot 2018-12-16 at 10.31.17 PM.png

Screen Shot 2018-12-16 at 10.31.02 PM.png

Edited by Lee G
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Right, you're missing the ejector springs that go in the back of the ejector. You're confusing it with the extractor that is in the slide itself. 
 
 
 
1842926749_ScreenShot2018-12-16at10_31_17PM.png.24f2bfb8c4fcd2d27ad9f5c4cf550d01.png
598438799_ScreenShot2018-12-16at10_31_02PM.png.7b5447a263bbf5c94e2c8be7fafec38d.png

Thanks Lee your right #74 is what I’m looking for
Thank you still new to the game[emoji846]
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