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1911 Drop in Trigger Kits?


ksf141

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Im thinking about a simple 1911 lower frame build for a dedicated 22 conversion upper.  Wondering what your experiences are with some of the 1911 "drop in" trigger kits by the likes of Brazos, Cylinder and Slide, etc.  I have basic tools and knowledge of assembly/disassembly.  I am not interested in complex fitting,grinding,polishing etc and dont have the tools/jigs for it.  Anyone use these kits and what was the install and result like?  Thanks! 

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5 minutes ago, Nugget said:

I'm a big fan of the ultimate light speed 2 kit from cylinder and slide. Pound and a half pull on both open guns. Clean break.

thanks Nugget.  did you install these kits yourself?  if so, any tips/comments on how it went? did you have to modify to get the 1.5lb pull? they advertise something like 3lbs out of the box.   thanks in advance for any thoughts. 

Edited by ksf141
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I put the Brazos kit into my Trubor, the kit installed with not problems but the safety had to be fitted to operate properly, luckily there was too much material on the existing safety so I could fit it with filing, otherwise I would have had to either get a new safety or weld up the old one to add metal to the drum so it could be filed for proper operation.

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Extreme Engineering and Cylinder & Slide parts are the same.  Their parts are well made, but I've never had a kit go in without some fiddling.  The last kit, the hammer hooks were only 16 thou.  I had to deepen them to 18.

 

I have two kits from EGW.  Their "kits" are actually parts picked out of a bin and packaged as a kit.  Their machining is so good they drop in and work IF your frame holes are in the correct positions.

 

I haven't use on yet, but Brazos actually matches the components and sets them up so the are in the middle of the tolerance range for STI pistols.  If you have a more precisely machined frame, you are better off with EGW, IMO.  If your frame holes are off, you are going to have to mess with whatever you buy.

 

Here is another suggestion that might make your life easier.  If you start with a Harrison Custom TruRadius sear and a good hammer of your choice, you won't have to touch the sear at all.  Worst case is your holes are off and the sear rubs harder on one side of the hook than the other.  You simply polish the heavy side of the hook 'till there is even pressure and you're done.  Working on the hammer is way easier than working on the sear.

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On 2/5/2017 at 7:05 PM, zzt said:

Extreme Engineering and Cylinder & Slide parts are the same.  Their parts are well made, but I've never had a kit go in without some fiddling.  The last kit, the hammer hooks were only 16 thou.  I had to deepen them to 18.

 

I have two kits from EGW.  Their "kits" are actually parts picked out of a bin and packaged as a kit.  Their machining is so good they drop in and work IF your frame holes are in the correct positions.

 

I haven't use on yet, but Brazos actually matches the components and sets them up so the are in the middle of the tolerance range for STI pistols.  If you have a more precisely machined frame, you are better off with EGW, IMO.  If your frame holes are off, you are going to have to mess with whatever you buy.

 

Here is another suggestion that might make your life easier.  If you start with a Harrison Custom TruRadius sear and a good hammer of your choice, you won't have to touch the sear at all.  Worst case is your holes are off and the sear rubs harder on one side of the hook than the other.  You simply polish the heavy side of the hook 'till there is even pressure and you're done.  Working on the hammer is way easier than working on the sear.

thanks zzt, its Steve if I remember correctly? I am local to your area and you were sharing some knowledge with me previously on bullseye shooting etc so thanks for the additional input.  In your scenario above of getting the Harrison sear and new hammer, what do you recommend for the rest of the fire control parts? trigger, strut, disconnector, mainspring?  

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I'd use all EGW parts, unless you want to substitute the Harrison sear.  If you go with a mainspring in the 17-19 lb. range, don't use a Ti firing pin.  I like their Ti Mainspring Cap and Hammer Strut.

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28 minutes ago, MrPostman said:

Brazos, he cuts the primary and relief angles on the sear before they leave his shop. I actually have one for sale if you are interested.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

send me a message, thanks. 

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