NicoR Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 (edited) Well... this happened to me: Coincidentally, I was reading about this today in Mark 7's manuals, because I just pulled the trigger on one: The same happened to a friend of mine last week. Also a Super 1050 and less than two years old. Mine is 5 months old and only 8,500 reloads done since I got it. I was going to adjust the bolt and it was already broken. Thoughts? Edited January 26, 2017 by NicoR Add image. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icestud Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks for pointing that out. I was looking in the Instruction Manual and they list two different lengths for the 1/4-20. One says 1/2 and one says 5/8 for the bolt (13685) I was also looking for a torque spec but didn't see anything, anybody know what it is? Thanks Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicoR Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks for pointing that out. I was looking in the Instruction Manual and they list two different lengths for the 1/4-20. One says 1/2 and one says 5/8 for the bolt (13685) I was also looking for a torque spec but didn't see anything, anybody know what it is? Thanks MattIn my case... and my friend's case too, it must've been over-torqued from the factory because we never touched it and when we did, they we're already broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicoR Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 3 hours ago, icestud said: Thanks for pointing that out. I was looking in the Instruction Manual and they list two different lengths for the 1/4-20. One says 1/2 and one says 5/8 for the bolt (13685) I was also looking for a torque spec but didn't see anything, anybody know what it is? Thanks Matt Matt, I just added the machine's lower assembly diagram with the screw in question pointed in red. I did it when I posted the thread but forgot to add it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicoR Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 Problem solved! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mach1soldier Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 (edited) I drilled mine out to 3/8. I don't recommend doing hat since the crankshaft is hardened steel. I bet it never breaks again though. Just a heads up, the machine sounded much more clunky right before the bolt broke. If the sound changes drastically, start investigating. Edited January 28, 2017 by mach1soldier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icestud Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 8 hours ago, NicoR said: Problem solved! What Did you torque it to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicoR Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 What Did you torque it to? Hmm-hhmmmmm rule, LOL. I have the tool but I didn't know how much torque to use. What do you suggest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 due to this thread i checked mine. ive sized maybe 3000 223 cases since new. aprox 6 months old. i reached around behind the press with an allen wrench in my finger tips, barely turned it (and i mean barely) and the screw head came off. really dissappointed in this press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicoR Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 due to this thread i checked mine. ive sized maybe 3000 223 cases since new. aprox 6 months old. i reached around behind the press with an allen wrench in my finger tips, barely turned it (and i mean barely) and the screw head came off. really dissappointed in this press.It is easy to take the screw out. First remove the "Carrier Cap" (Part #11010) and the screw should be visible. Then use a small flat screwdriver to turn it, you may need to use a hammer but it should be quite loose. After a couple of turns, the tip of the screw should come out and you should be able to take it out with pliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 thank you. yeah i figure ill get the screw out. just aggravated with this thing. now broken screw, wouldnt index out of the box. other potmetal part on it has snapped, cant consistantly swage with it, instruction manual sux. easily the most expensive piece of equipment on my bench, and by far the most dissapointing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicoR Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 thank you. yeah i figure ill get the screw out. just aggravated with this thing. now broken screw, wouldnt index out of the box. other potmetal part on it has snapped, cant consistantly swage with it, instruction manual sux. easily the most expensive piece of equipment on my bench, and by far the most dissapointing.What is the problem with the swage function? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 just cant get a consistant swage from it, and it smashes the flash hole burr down into the flash hole closing it off. granted i havent spent a lot of time working on the swage issue's. i have a go-nogo guage for primer pockets, and set in one place itll swage a couple fine, some wont pass the guage, and randomly burrs pressed into the flash holes. at first i though it was because multiple headstamps, but you can run 10 pieces of brass thru with the same headstamp and get the same results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicoR Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Unfortunately I can't help you because I don't use the swage function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Of course it's gonna smash the flash hole burr...it needs to be de-burred first. If some have a burr and some don't that alone could cause inconsistencies in the swage. If you are getting inconsistent swages, that would usually mean trying to do multiple headstamps or the hold down rod isn't screwed down far enough. The shell plate should not flex. And using the go/no go gauges is a must. imho jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 well, i'll worry about that after i manage to get this low grade bolt out of the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 well, had to pull the crankshaft out of the press, but managed to get the broke off bolt out. without damaging anything , as a bonus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicoR Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 well, had to pull the crankshaft out of the press, but managed to get the broke off bolt out. without damaging anything , as a bonus. Great to hear! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steyr556 Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 best to grind head as far as u can without hitting bearing guide than use sharp chisel to remove rest of head use small punch to push shaft out opposite side than replace w grade 8 long bolt with nut on threads by head, screw into shaft and lock down with nut now u have easy access to service bearings when needed, forget trying to remove normally because it will just strip out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steyr556 Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 also replacing screw without lock nut will just come loose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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