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P320 X5 Thread


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4 hours ago, George16 said:

If the front and rear of the red dot butts up against the cutout preventing any minuscule movement of the rds, there might be enough support to prevent shearing the 2 screws from the force of the slide recoiling. This is the main reason why you’ll see bosses on adapter plates or cutouts specifically cut for a given brand of red dot.

 

How much of a gap are there on the front and rear of the red dot as it sit in the cutout? Can you post a side and top view pictures?

 

There was about a tenth of a milimeter to the front, and almost a cm to the back. I did put the plate back on. It doesn´t make that huge of a difference.

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3 hours ago, bimmer1980 said:

 

There was about a tenth of a milimeter to the front, and almost a cm to the back. I did put the plate back on. It doesn´t make that huge of a difference.

If that’s the case, just use the adapter to give you some peace of mind. Besides, there’s not much difference anyway as you stated. 

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Hello: I would use the plate if it has locating pins and is tight in the cutout in the slide. The plate will only raise the dot up a little and is not a big deal as some of those out there think it is. I would rather have a secure mounting of the red dot that trusting two small screws to hold it in place. Thanks, Eric

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I got my barrel replaced with a non LCI one. It was pretty simple. Took exactly one week from the time it was shipped out to when it was recieved back. I was warned if you handled the shipping yourself, you had to be there to sign for it on return. It could not be redirected to a hub, or rescheduled to a weekend, so I just let my FFL handle the shipping and receiving. He does a lot of transfers for me, so he did it no charge! I was given no specific instructions over the phone, so I sent the whole gun with DPP mounted and one magazine in the factory case, no complaints that I was aware of. First hundred rounds and the optic looks clean. I feel like the new barrel fits a little tighter, may just be in my head though... Side note, sounds like the process all goes much smoother and quickly, if you just call Sig CS, instead of trying to do it via email. 

19915.jpeg

Edited by EngineerEli
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I need to pop in to the pro shop and see if they can handle the shipping (a whole one town over) to get my LCI barrel swapped. Logistically it would be so easy but I feel like they're gonna tell me to pound sand and basically drive further to a Fed Ex hub to ship it than it would be to go right to the Newington or Exeter facility lol.

Edited by thormx538
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I come from the CZ platform, so take this question for what it’s worth, but does anyone produce a reduced power trigger bar spring for the P320?  Would a reduced power spring aid in lowering trigger pull weight.

 

Sorry if this is a dumb newb question

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47 minutes ago, zhunter said:

I come from the CZ platform, so take this question for what it’s worth, but does anyone produce a reduced power trigger bar spring for the P320?  Would a reduced power spring aid in lowering trigger pull weight.

 

Sorry if this is a dumb newb question

Haven’t looked in a while but the only spring you can buy is the one from Gray Guns but it comes in their comp kit. The other alternative I can think of is physically squeezing the coil on the spring or manipulating the legs in to less than 90 degrees when they are not under tension. 

Edited by 021411
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7 minutes ago, 021411 said:

Haven’t looked in a while but the only spring you can buy is the one from Gray Guns but it comes in their comp kit. The other alternative I can think of is physically squeezing the coil on the spring or manipulating the legs in to less than 90 degrees when they are not under tension. 

I am torn between the $129 GG kit and the $295 Sig Armorer full trigger job (Which of course would entail shipping costs). In the big scheme of things, $170 bucks is not the end of the world if it is in fact a better trigger.  The videos I have seen show a MUCH shorter pre and over travel for the Burke (Sig Armorer) trigger, but possibly a bit heavier trigger pull.  I ride the trigger and am prone to trigger freeze on hoser stages, so shorter travel is a big thing for me.

 

Decisions Decisions 🤨

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12 minutes ago, 021411 said:

Haven’t looked in a while but the only spring you can buy is the one from Gray Guns but it comes in their comp kit. The other alternative I can think of is physically squeezing the coil on the spring or manipulating the legs in to less than 90 degrees when they are not under tension. 

 

You can buy the springs by themselves from Osage (out of stock), or Shooter's Connection used to have them too

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8 minutes ago, zhunter said:

I am torn between the $129 GG kit and the $295 Sig Armorer full trigger job (Which of course would entail shipping costs). In the big scheme of things, $170 bucks is not the end of the world if it is in fact a better trigger.  The videos I have seen show a MUCH shorter pre and over travel for the Burke (Sig Armorer) trigger, but possibly a bit heavier trigger pull.  I ride the trigger and am prone to trigger freeze on hoser stages, so shorter travel is a big thing for me.

 

Decisions Decisions 🤨

I have both actually. My regular X5 has the full Burke treatment and the Legion has the GG kit. As far is which is “nicer”, I think the Burke trigger is a tiny better. Obviously this is subjective. Yes it has less take up and the break has a snap to it. The GG kit to me feels just like a lighter stock Legion trigger with much less over travel. 

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15 minutes ago, 021411 said:

I have both actually. My regular X5 has the full Burke treatment and the Legion has the GG kit. As far is which is “nicer”, I think the Burke trigger is a tiny better. Obviously this is subjective. Yes it has less take up and the break has a snap to it. The GG kit to me feels just like a lighter stock Legion trigger with much less over travel. 

That’s good info 

 

Too much over-travel and a long reset lead to my trigger freezes

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Hello: I went with the Gray Guns trigger since I like a curved trigger. The more I shoot it the lighter it gets. I took out the overtravel sleeve since I like a little more overtravel. It makes it feel closer to more 2011's with around a 1/16" overtravel. Thanks, Eric

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I still cant dryfire my sig with GG kit, but it functions perfectly for me at the range. Should I send it out? Whom should I send it to

The 2 problems I have are that i get light primer strikes when the gun is in a novice's hands. I thought it was perhaps that my spring is light and they limp wrist the gun and rounds may not be seeting correctly but im not. And the lack of dryfire.

 

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5 hours ago, m700 said:

I still cant dryfire my sig with GG kit, but it functions perfectly for me at the range. Should I send it out? Whom should I send it to

The 2 problems I have are that i get light primer strikes when the gun is in a novice's hands. I thought it was perhaps that my spring is light and they limp wrist the gun and rounds may not be seeting correctly but im not. And the lack of dryfire.

 

 What are you running for a recoil spring?

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26 minutes ago, Tango said:

This question may not belong here, but here it is anyways: i wrapped my x5 grip with multiple layers of grip tape to add thickness, and it really works well for me. Below is a picture. Is this gun still legal for carry optics division??

 

IMG_9209.JPG.0d02d402237e43726e22855784492ab2.JPG

 

That TTI +2 base plate sucks, by the way. It causes a hard jam (double feed).

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25 minutes ago, Tango said:

 

That TTI +2 base plate sucks, by the way. It causes a hard jam (double feed).


Been using the TTI +2 extensions for nearly 2 years, tens of thousands of rounds, never had a single issue. What exactly is happening to yours?

Edited by Rich406
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Hello: I have not had any problems with the TTI base pads at all. I am not sure how a base pad causes a double feed problem? I can see it if the magazine spring is bad but I am using the TTI base pads with stock springs and followers as well as Grams spring and followers and they run 100%. Could it be that the grip tape you added is deforming the grip? Thanks, Eric

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1 hour ago, Aircooled6racer said:

Hello: I have not had any problems with the TTI base pads at all. I am not sure how a base pad causes a double feed problem? I can see it if the magazine spring is bad but I am using the TTI base pads with stock springs and followers as well as Grams spring and followers and they run 100%. Could it be that the grip tape you added is deforming the grip? Thanks, Eric

i dont think the grip can flex so much with adding tape, to me the issue seems to be the mags are too tight when adding the +2 (23 rounds total) and the feedlips allow a bullet to slip into the chamber because of excessive pressure

 

the mags are extremely tight if I put 23 rounds in them

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