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How is this Limited Pro setup?


Underwhere

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On 1/13/2017 at 9:48 AM, MissionaryMike said:

This is wisdom.  I'm repeating myself here, but all the effort I've put in chasing a light trigger hasn't proven as fruitful as I had hoped.  Despite the array of support from PD, Henning, etc., you'll always max out potential with power tools.  At some point, the tool that really needs training is the trigger finger.  

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1 hour ago, IronArcher said:

Ok, I have heard conflicting information.
Can anyone please measure a known extended firing pin block, and a "normal" firing pin block (or whichever you have).
I have a Lim Pro, and heard to has the standard, and also heard to has the extended.
With a BOLO, mine doesn't stop the firing pin.... at all.


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Here's a pic. 

 

My LP with Titan/bolo would not block the fp w/stock fpb. Had to buy an extended one. Dropped right in. 

 

IMG_3338.PNG

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One more if anyone has one laying around.
I found a baggie with a spring in it labeled Henning ultralight trigger plunger spring.... thing is, I don't remember putting it in! (I put the oem parts back in the new bags so I know where they go).
Can anyone measure a stock and/or Henning trigger plunger spring?


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So I put about 300 to 400 rounds through the gun today. Had quite a number of light strikes. So I put the 14 pound hammer spring in and removed the 13.

I'm running a factory firing pin. Is the extended one necessary? Do I need to buy a new firing pin block if I get the extended firing pin?

Also put the stock trigger plunger spring back in. The reset could barely be felt without it.

Trigger pull is 2.5 pounds at the moment.

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The light plunger springs often let the hammer drop early in DA, so it's possible that you reduced how often you'll have light strikes right there.

 

You won't need to change blocks based on firing pin. That's a factor determined by your sear/hammer combination.

 

My suggestions:

 

Take the firing pin block out entirely. Now that's a non factor.

 

Take it to the range with factory plunger and 14 pound hammer springs installed.

 

If it runs correctly, reinstall your firing pin block. If light strikes come back you've diagnosed it.

 

If it still doesn't run 100% order a heavy firing pin, or switch to a heavier hammer spring. Either the EGD Light, Wolff 14, or wait for PD to release their 15.5

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The light plunger springs often let the hammer drop early in DA, so it's possible that you reduced how often you'll have light strikes right there.

 

You won't need to change blocks based on firing pin. That's a factor determined by your sear/hammer combination.

 

My suggestions:

 

Take the firing pin block out entirely. Now that's a non factor.

 

Take it to the range with factory plunger and 14 pound hammer springs installed.

 

If it runs correctly, reinstall your firing pin block. If light strikes come back you've diagnosed it.

 

If it still doesn't run 100% order a heavy firing pin, or switch to a heavier hammer spring. Either the EGD Light, Wolff 14, or wait for PD to release their 15.5


Makes sense. Thanks for your suggestions.

I did "fit" the Fpb to make sure the firing pin wasn't dragging.

Also it was a bit strange but I only noticed light strikes in the first 100 or 200 rounds. So maybe it's a friction thing somewhere that worked itself out.
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Did you put in the Titan hammer yet?


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Yea. It's rocking the Titan hammer and BOLO. Extended firing pin block with factory firing pin.
I used PD's firing pin spring and a 13 pound hammer spring.

Then yesterday night I put the 14 pound spring in. Now I just need to find some day to get back to the range.
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Hey, I have one question regarding the safety, I'm getting a lim pro for idap/uspsa. I need to remove the right side safety, do I need to order a single side safety or is there something that can be done without buying a new one?

 

 

Thanks

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Hey, I have one question regarding the safety, I'm getting a lim pro for idap/uspsa. I need to remove the right side safety, do I need to order a single side safety or is there something that can be done without buying a new one?

 

 

Thanks


I bought a new one.
I honestly forget whether you could simply remove one side. It was the first thing I did.
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  • 4 weeks later...

So just another update:

 

I got a chance to get back to the range with my 14 pound hammer spring. 

No more light strikes however it seems like the reset issues I was experiencing before (very weak and non-positive reset) is becoming worse.

My trigger fails to reset when shooting fast. I actually had to take my trigger finger and help the trigger forward to reset it a number of times.

 

I went home and removed the BOLO and the reset is much much more positive now. I'm now using the pre-travel screw to stop the trigger rather than count on the BOLO.

 

I've definitely been hunting for the perfect trigger and have wasted an extraordinary amount of money on this thing. 

I've actually built 2 other guns with Cajun Gun Works parts and the triggers are far better than this and with no messing around. They work 100% as soon as the parts were put in. I wish Cajun would make parts for this gun. I'm a little disappointed with Henning on their SAO trigger as well as the Patriot Defense BOLO. This gun is definitely going to take a few more range trips for me to feel comfortable that it's functioning properly. 

 

But after all this work, and incredible amount of polishing this is literally the smoothest gun I have ever shot by far. It's very flat shooting with 147gr over titegroup spitting it out at roughly 880fps.  I have the trigger at 2.5 pounds....but would gladly trade 1 pound to make it as crisp, fast and reliable as a Cajun setup.

Edited by Underwhere
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  • 2 weeks later...

The saga continues: I went back to do some more testing. Solved a problem and 3 more came to light.

 

To recap here is what's currently in the gun:

Henning single action trigger with the rearmost trigger for shortest reach

Stock plunger spring

Reduced sear spring

Factory one piece long sear

Titan Hammer

14 pound hammer spring

Extended firing pin block

Extended left sided safety

10 pound recoil spring.

 

Problems last time: 

The trigger would fail to reset. Even after I let go of it it would stay there. I had to push the trigger forward with my finger to reset it.

 

Changes:

Here is what I changed from the last time I shot: (Removed BOLO, put pre-travel screw back into the trigger, put the 10# recoil spring into the gun, loaded up a new cartridge with an OAL of 1.070 which is short but is necessary to plunk test successfully in my other CZ's)

 

Problem Solved

I no longer had any issues with the trigger resetting. Progess :)

 

New problems - 

  • I had several failures to extract resulting in double feeds. Too many to be a coincidence. I probably put about 100 rounds through the gun just to test it and maybe got 5 or 6 failures to extract. 
  • I'm short stroking the trigger. The only other gun I've done this in is a Ruger LCR. While testing I was pushing to see how fast I could get the gun to shoot and many times I would sit there pressing trigger only to realize I hadn't let it reset. I'm wondering what's going on here. There is nothing mechanically wrong with the trigger now. I'm wondering if the trigger being so far back (I bought the trigger that sits the farthest back) has any affect on this. Is the timing of the gun off? The only way for me to be sure to cycle is if I slap the trigger which I've really never done before and don't intend on doing now. 
  • When I'm shooting with 2 hands, my support hand is constantly depressing the mag release and dropping the damn mag. Do they make a more shallow mag release?

Ideas welcome

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1) extra strength extractor spring

2) where is your right thumb when shooting? You mentioned that it was UNDER the safety correct? Getting it out from under the safety should give your support hand more room to move up.

3) Trigger drills:
Pull trigger to drop hammer.
Keep trigger back and cycle the slide
Set timer to go off in 2-4 seconds
Grip and aim
At the beep, as fast as you can reset the trigger, pull and drop the hammer.... don't let the sight move.
Repeat x10,000 ;)


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5 hours ago, Underwhere said:

I had several failures to extract resulting in double feeds. Too many to be a coincidence. I probably put about 100 rounds through the gun just to test it and maybe got 5 or 6 failures to extract. 

 

Were there 2 UNFIRED rounds attempting to fill the same hole ?

 

Or

 

 

Was a fired case remaining in the chamber stopping one unfired round from being inserted?

 

The first situation "fix" is to polish the breech face, extractor hook. The CHAMFER the bottom edge of the breech face by 0.050" or so and mirror polish the rib that goes from the breech back.

 

The second situation needs the extractor tuned if it isn't holding tight. And a stronger extractor spring.  the extractor hook could also be damaged. Or a few other oddball things.

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12 hours ago, IronArcher said:

1) extra strength extractor spring

2) where is your right thumb when shooting? You mentioned that it was UNDER the safety correct? Getting it out from under the safety should give your support hand more room to move up.

3) Trigger drills:
Pull trigger to drop hammer.
Keep trigger back and cycle the slide
Set timer to go off in 2-4 seconds
Grip and aim
At the beep, as fast as you can reset the trigger, pull and drop the hammer.... don't let the sight move.
Repeat x10,000 ;)
 

Ok I'll look into the extra strength spring. Interesting that it's all of a sudden occurring now but I guess the extra strength spring couldn't hurt.

 

My right thumb sits naturally on top of the safety. My support hand just happen to naturally hit the mag release. 

And yes...noted on the trigger drill. It's just a problem I've never had before. 

7 hours ago, johnbu said:

 

Were there 2 UNFIRED rounds attempting to fill the same hole ?

 

Or

 

 

Was a fired case remaining in the chamber stopping one unfired round from being inserted?

 

The first situation "fix" is to polish the breech face, extractor hook. The CHAMFER the bottom edge of the breech face by 0.050" or so and mirror polish the rib that goes from the breech back.

 

The second situation needs the extractor tuned if it isn't holding tight. And a stronger extractor spring.  the extractor hook could also be damaged. Or a few other oddball things.

There was a spent case in the chamber with a fresh round jamming up underneath it. 

I'll check the extractor hook and order a stronger spring. 

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Also clean the extractor and area. "Stuff" builds up there in around and behind the extractor from oil and burnt powder. It could be just dirty.  But all my guns sport the extra power wolff springs.  the factory extractor spring also historically weakens around 10,000 rounds, so it could be that too.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Everything seems to be fine now. Extra power extractor spring, PD extended firing pin, new fit extended FPB, an xtreme SAO trigger, and a standard magazine catch instead of th extended limpro catch.

Now it seems to be running smooth with no short stroking.

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