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Tuning for "auto forward" slide lock reloads


MemphisMechanic

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As a Production guy who is left handed, I am looking to set up a Stock 2/3 to auto-forward consistently when a magazine is inserted with a moderate amount of force.

I shot the M&P for 7 years because I could thumb both the mag and slide controls effortlessly, and now I'm going back to a right-handed gun. Worse, it has a safety lever blocking the ergonomic path between my trigger finger and the slide stop.

I played with a friend's CZ Custom Shadow and it will smoothly drop the locked-back slide if you insert a magazine with a normal "make sure it's fully seated" smack from the heel of your palm.

(Which is perfect - I don't want the slide to drop early if I misalign the mag and bump the frame with it roughly)

I've already polished the contact areas on the stop and the slide itself in hopes of setting up my Tanfo like this. It's been my experience that light recoil springs and strong magazine springs help as well, but I won't be putting my gun back together for a few days - not until all the P.D. goodies arrive - so I cannot test it.

In the meantime, has anyone noticed a direct correlation between ease of "auto forwarding" and certain modifications?

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27 minutes ago, ElMateo487 said:

Post the link here if you find it. 

Advanced search... author = kneelingatlas phrase= "slide stop"

That didn't take long. ;)

http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/220508-75-ts-auto-close/#comment-2455645

(Nothing shocking though. Common sense is found herein.)

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Advanced search... author = kneelingatlas phrase= "slide stop"

That didn't take long. [emoji6]

http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/220508-75-ts-auto-close/#comment-2455645

(Nothing shocking though. Common sense is found herein.)



This is my first gun I've ever done my own work on :)

But no excuses for not just searching for the thread. Lol
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3 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Not surprising. There's an awesome explanation of everything in these guns by kneelingatlas, if you look hard enough!

He and Nealio are the guys that KNOW by much trial and tribulations. I still learn much of their wisdom rooting around with the search function.  They are the original "Tanfo Wisperers".

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1 hour ago, Polymer said:

Am i missing something....you never shoot to complete empty/slide lock in uspsa, why is this feature sought after?

In a magical land where all the candy is free, that's supposed to be true. Sometimes we mess up and forget to reload coming into a new position.

Also:

You ever take extra shots on steel?

You've never spotted a faster way to attack a stage that allowed you to delete an entire position if you completely empty the gun once or twice elsewhere, requiring a slide-lock load on the move?

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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I got my gun's trigger reworked, resprung, and polished up last night.

The last thing I did before slapping it back together was to work on the above procedure.

I will say that I'm surprised just how aggressive I had to be in rounding the corners of the stop and the slide's notch in order to make any difference at all.

On try #3... I believe I nailed it. A brisk but not brutal insertion of a mag filled with 10 dummy rounds will run the slide forward every time. Intentionally botching reloads and banging mags into the bottom of the frame didn't result it in falling early, which is even better.

Round the corners off aggressively with a small file and then polish like mad with a dremel.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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10 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

I got my gun's trigger reworked, resprung, and polished up last night.

The last thing I did before slapping it back together was to work on the above procedure.

I will say that I'm surprised just how aggressive I had to be in rounding the corners of the stop and the slide's notch in order to make any difference at all.

On try #3... I believe I nailed it. A brisk but not brutal insertion of a mag filled with 10 dummy rounds will run the slide forward every time. Intentionally botching reloads and banging mags into the bottom of the frame didn't result it in falling early, which is even better.

Round the corners off aggressively with a small file and then polish like mad with a dremel.

Doing this procedure myself and worried about removing too much material.  Could you post a picture of what your slide stop looks like now?

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19 minutes ago, Mike62 said:

Doing this procedure myself and worried about removing too much material.  Could you post a picture of what your slide stop looks like now?

I'll try to get you one. My suggestion would be to make five or six passes with a file and then aggressively polish both surfaces with a dremel, oil, test, and repeat.

I modified the angle of the slide's notch to be more of a \ instead of a I ... in favor of the direction that makes it easier to drop.

Then broke the square corner of the slide stop with a few passes at a time until it was visibly rounded. And found out that wasn't nearly enough either.

I wouldn't worry too much about overdoing it - you can always square the slide notch up again with your file or roughen both surfaces to make the slide harder to drop if you go too far.

But "too far" is actually much further than you would expcect it to be. This isn't a hair-trigger engagement we are working with.

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14 hours ago, Polymer said:

Am i missing something....you never shoot to complete empty/slide lock in uspsa, why is this feature sought after?

 

You skipped a word...

"Intentionally". 

 

but those dang texas stars sometimes dodge my expertly aimed bullets...a lot.  once and a while stuff happens as steel poppers do a hula dance allowing bullets to slide past. 

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7 minutes ago, johnbu said:

 

You skipped a word...

"Intentionally". 

Sometimes the fastest stage plan involves going 1 for 1 on steel and intentionally shooting the gun dry, too.

It may not be the way you choose to shoot the stage, but there are times when completely emptying the gun will allow you a few new options.

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21 minutes ago, johnbu said:

I've planned a few 10 round sprees, but I haven't "planned" on slide lock.  Hasn't stopped it from magically happening .... lol.

hey, it's my first season!  I'm allowed a few total meltdowns, right?

Ahh. First season.

Just wait. You'll see places where you can push this to your advantage soon. Step one in seeing it, is having the confidence that you can do it.

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I'll take them when I can.

I had a stage which was the perfect test this weekend. Taking a pair of 10 yd targets on the move allowed me to roll through a spot most others shot flat-footed.

As the last last target was partial hardcover, I might as well put the final round in it for a "preplanned makeup."

The resulting reload on the move dropped the slide smoothly from the impact of the mag being seated in the magwell. Without having to deliberately drive it in hard.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Okay. Here's an image of the slide stop sitting upright, just as it would be in the gun.

Round the corner with perhaps a dozen passes of a file and then polish it mirror smooth:

IMG_2310.JPG

(My gun, as always, is dirty. So you can't see the rounded-off profile superbly well.)

On the slide, get rid of any "undercut" that is present and make it slope toward the rear of the gun or at least shoot for dead vertical. Ruthlessly polish this spot as well after every time it's reshaped with a metal file:

IMG_2309.JPG

 

Give them both a half-dozen passes of a file, then assemble the gun and test it by feeding it a magazine with ten dummy rounds in it. It needs to weigh the same amount as the ones you'll feed the gun during a stage. F = m * a and you need an accurate test 'blow' to see how easily it drops.

A lighter recoil spring is also a huge help. After all, the recoil spring is what applies the pressure between these two parts.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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