oldfrank Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Is there any way around having to brush out the cylinder every few stages to keep my rounds dropping freely into my S&W 66? I have used W231 and N320 with the same results. I gauge the rounds and also check them in the cylinders. Loose as can be, drop right in and out but when the gun gets a little warm or dirty, one or two rounds don't seat flush and I have to push them in the cylinder, which really slows down a reload. Is this mostly normal or should I have the cylinder holes checked. I already polished them with mag wheel polish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cherokeewind Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 You probably know this but .38 Special brass in .357 cylinders usually leads to crud build up in the cylinder just ahead of the end of the .38 Special case. There may be other problems but this is what comes to mind. I use .357 brass almost always just to prevent that problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 It can depend on your bullet design, I've had this problem with bullets that are full diameter just in front of the case mouth and they make contact with the crud buildup that was mentioned above. It never happens with a tapered RN, what kind of bullet are you shooting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrswanson1 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 I'd use used .357 brass to clear out the individual holes between stages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 I'd use used .357 brass to clear out the individual holes between stages. At a USPSA match there is no ammo, dummies or empty cases allowed in the safety area. This would be a DQ under rule 10.5.12. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 I meant to say no -handling- of ammo..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldfrank Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 (edited) I use both Bayou 160gr RN and also Xtreme 147 Plated RN. Are you talking about just pushing an empty .357 case in the hole. I never thought of that. I suspect it is due to firing .38's in a .357. In competition I couldn't afford the time to load the longer bullets but I do make sure that crud ring is completely gone when cleaning. Yes the ammo issue is the same for Icore but if it worked I could rig something up with what used to be a .357 case. Edited October 5, 2016 by oldfrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 The crud ring is only a problem if you put longer brass into the chamber before you clean the revolver. The crud _ is_ in front of the case.How sooty is your load? Is crud blowing back past the case mouth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldfrank Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 I don't think it is all that dirty especially with the N320. I just found three cases in my reloading box from the last match and the brass is still pretty shiny and no soot on it. What is the min-max bore of the cylinder? I wonder if it could be on the small size even though reloads drop right in a clean gun, not sure if that is a true indicator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMM50 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 I've been honing all my cylinders till they have a mirror finish. This puts a smooth solid surface that is difficult for crud to stick to. Also shooting Hi Tech coated bullets from Black and Blue Bullets mixed with molly coated Billy Bullets. Don't know if these bullets help but every little bit must help. I can go 8 stages (8 shot 38 Super) and then I brush out the cylinders cause I'm fraidy scared of a misfire. Don't know how long it could go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldfrank Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 Where do I get a hone for that job? Sounds like it can't hurt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMM50 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Brownells and get the cutting oil also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldfrank Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 Thanks for the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 You shooting speedloaders? My 627 goes well over a thousand rounds between cleanings with no problems. I'm shooting a 158 lead round nose in front of Unique. None of that fancy coated lead either. I suspect the heavy bullets and moon clips help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldfrank Posted October 6, 2016 Author Share Posted October 6, 2016 Yes, I shoot using speedloaders and I have noticed the moon clip guys don't seem to have the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOF Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 On 10/5/2016 at 3:55 PM, GMM50 said: Brownells and get the cutting oil also Be very careful with that cylinder hone. If you cut too far forward and alter the throat you will ruin the accuracy from that chamber. Don't ask me how I know. You really only need to polish the rear 2/3s of the cylinder. Mark the hone at the proper point and don't shove it in beyond that. If you're careful, that hone works great. If you get a bit to aggressive... you'll need a new cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanMan1961 Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 On 10/5/2016 at 10:54 AM, oldfrank said: Is there any way around having to brush out the cylinder every few stages to keep my rounds dropping freely into my S&W 66? I have used W231 and N320 with the same results. I gauge the rounds and also check them in the cylinders. Loose as can be, drop right in and out but when the gun gets a little warm or dirty, one or two rounds don't seat flush and I have to push them in the cylinder, which really slows down a reload. Is this mostly normal or should I have the cylinder holes checked. I already polished them with mag wheel polish are you sure you are getting a complete powder burn? I was testing out some light loads in my 625 and went too light on one batch. The way I noticed was the rounds would not slide into the chamber and get stuck ~1/2 way. All it took was a couple of grains of unburned N320 to hang things up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldfrank Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 I am running them pretty warm so I don't think it is unburnt powder. But I will keep researching about this and the hone. The hone instructions I saw online says "start spinning outside cylinder and go all the way through." I sure don't want to mess up a cylinder. I may use finest scotch brite and mag polish first to see what happens. Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now