Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Thoughts on this malfunction?


Nemesis Lead

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

 

I am trying to diagnose a gun problem.  Here is a link to a public Dropbox picture:

 

2016-09-27%2014.09.39.jpg

 

I am trying to determine what causes a malfunction like this (the above is simulated with a dummy round).

This is a .40 CAL 1911 with rounds loaded to 1.125.  The bullets have a rounded profile and a small flat point.  I get about 1 malfunction of this type per every 200 rounds and I have no idea what is causing it.  The gun is kept clean and lubcricated.  I run Wilson Combat 10mm magazines (based on the 47D design I think).

When shooting, I usually can slap the back of the slide to get it to go into battery.  That works most of the time, but this is obviously a stage wrecker.

Do I need a longer / shorter OAL?  Do I need a stronger/weaker recoil springs?  More stout loads?  Different magazines?  Something else?

How would you go about trouble shooting this?

 

 

Edited by Nemesis Lead
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps set a little less extractor tension if the hook is in good shape. There should be a small bevel on the edge of the hook that faces the feeding round. Look for something rough on the breech face. Perhaps add a little more crimp on the ammo. The barrel may need a little more throating. Changing the OAL of the ammo may help. Searching for "3 point jam" may give you more insight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems as though you may be loaded short.

Most 1911/2011 feed better in 40 with ammo between 1.180 and 1.200 provided you chamber/throat is that long.

Which being an SVI gun a bet it is.

Also call Brandon and ask his suggestions on cartridge OAL.

IF its running 99% of the time its usually ammo related, OAL , Crimp Etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, jcc7x7 said:

Seems as though you may be loaded short.

Most 1911/2011 feed better in 40 with ammo between 1.180 and 1.200 provided you chamber/throat is that long.

Which being an SVI gun a bet it is.

Also call Brandon and ask his suggestions on cartridge OAL.

IF its running 99% of the time its usually ammo related, OAL , Crimp Etc

  Had the same problem until I did this.

 I found 1.175  turned out to be a perfect length for all my 40 caliber loads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

load longer, 1.135 might do it, but i'd try to get it a lot closer to 1.180.   1.200 has been the ticket for me in 10mm magazines. 

you might be able to go up 1# in recoil spring to "muscle up" on feeding, but that's not really a fix.  as was mentioned, if the premature slide lock is coming from bullets contacting the stop, you might be further ahead loading to 1.200 for reliability and re-shaping the slide stop to fix premature lock as a separate issue.

you might try a different bullet profile, too -- RN or a RNFP have been much smoother for me at any length, 1.185 - 1.200

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im seeing a similar issue with my SV.  I just got the gun back from SV about a month ago.  New extractor, hammer, springs, sights, safety.  I have about 1.5k rounds on the gun since the rebuild.  The slide doesn't go all they way into battery and the extractor is not catching the case.  If I drop the mag and pull the slide back and release it will catch and go into battery.  I tried removing the extractor to see if it already needed cleaning but I could not get the plate/firing pin stop removed to get the extractor out.  

I load long 1.21 with 180g blue bullets.  I know nothing about tuning the extractor.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, CrashDodson said:

Im seeing a similar issue with my SV.  I just got the gun back from SV about a month ago.  New extractor, hammer, springs, sights, safety.  I have about 1.5k rounds on the gun since the rebuild.  The slide doesn't go all they way into battery and the extractor is not catching the case.  If I drop the mag and pull the slide back and release it will catch and go into battery.  I tried removing the extractor to see if it already needed cleaning but I could not get the plate/firing pin stop removed to get the extractor out.  

I load long 1.21 with 180g blue bullets.  I know nothing about tuning the extractor.  

Here's a link to Brazo's article page, lots of good information (including extractor tuning) http://www.brazoscustom.com/Home.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How does it run with factory ball ammo? Are you using range brass to reload or new Starline brass? 

Your mileage may very, however, until I started using a Redding push through die on my .40 range brass, my SV ran fine with factory ball ammo, but sometimes choked on my reloads. Made it hard to finish a stage without a failure.

The failures like the one you have went away on my SV after I started using the push through die and reloading to 1.200 OAL with 180g hollow points. I've tuned all my 1911/2011 competition guns not to lock back on the last round. It's too easy to over insert the mag on a locked back slide and damage the ejector when your on the clock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On September 27, 2016 at 4:19 PM, Nemesis Lead said:

Hi Guys,

 

I am trying to diagnose a gun problem.  Here is a link to a public Dropbox picture:

 

2016-09-27%2014.09.39.jpg

 

I am trying to determine what causes a malfunction like this (the above is simulated with a dummy round).

This is a .40 CAL 1911 with rounds loaded to 1.125.  The bullets have a rounded profile and a small flat point.  I get about 1 malfunction of this type per every 200 rounds and I have no idea what is causing it.  The gun is kept clean and lubcricated.  I run Wilson Combat 10mm magazines (based on the 47D design I think).

When shooting, I usually can slap the back of the slide to get it to go into battery.  That works most of the time, but this is obviously a stage wrecker.

Do I need a longer / shorter OAL?  Do I need a stronger/weaker recoil springs?  More stout loads?  Different magazines?  Something else?

How would you go about trouble shooting this?

 

 

No question about it, load as close to 1.20" as you can.  If you're worried about the extractor.  Pull the slide off and slide one of your rounds up the breechface behind the extractor and give it a little shake.  If it stays in place.  You have enough tension.  I doubt you have too much tension, but if you have a really hard time getting the rim behind the extractor, you could have too much.

I've never had long rounds cause the slide to lock back prematurely.  You could always increase the depth of the relieved area in the slide stop the detent rides in.

Push feeds are fairly common with short rounds.  The shorter rounds give the round a little wiggle room before the round is fully captured between the extractor and feed ramp. 

And, if it continues to give you a problem, send it back to the factory with your ammo.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have other solutions for lock back.  Adjust the followers on the front left side or detent in the slide stop.

My one SV with a Nowlin barrel likes long loaded --1.175+.  My SS will shoot factory ammo.

Are you using a Lee/EGW FCD? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the same/similar FTF after I got my Para Pro Custom .40 back from my gunsmith. I got to my next match and 1-of-5 or so would do this.  I could always bump the back of the slide and it would go into battery.

He had tightened the extractor on his own whim (not requested) because he said it was loose.  I bent the extractor back out just a little and I've never had the problem since.

I load 180gr RNFP @ 1.180" over 4.7gr of Titegroup at 168 PF. 12LB Wolff recoil spring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...