gerritm Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 So DVC 2011 open in 38 super is definetly a learning experience. Coming from a Glock 17 open that ran 100% I am constantly learning. Fixed my lube, primer, MBX mag, problems. New Aftec fixed most random problems. Gun has run 100% in 4 or 5 matches now. One small problem cropped up in the last couple of 3-gun/USPSA matches. I started struggling with my normally very strong steel/poppers shooting. This is never a problem. My strong suit. Pulling almost every tight shot. Seemed to be getting worse. Checked zero on C-more, right on the money.Still missing first shots really having to concentrate. I had adjusted the trigger screw to take up most of the creep. Right on the edge of working or not. Going on about 2K rounds. The trigger adjustment screw due to wearing in must have changed and the trigger was sticking as I pulled causing me to yank the first shot. Backed the trigger screw out about a half turn and some creep returned, but smoothed right back. Trigger has worn in and is pretty smooth with about a 2.0-2.5# pull. Tested it yesterday at range and it is good again. Anything I can do to prevent this? Really like this gun. All a learning experience. gerritm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stardust tommy Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 always make sure that there is enough trigger overtravel so the halfcock notch on the hammer does not make contact with the sear. you can check this by guiding the hammer forward and feel if there is contact gr T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler2you Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 4 hours ago, gerritm said: I had adjusted the trigger screw to take up most of the creep. Right on the edge of working or not. Going on about 2K rounds. The trigger adjustment screw due to wearing in must have changed and the trigger was sticking as I pulled causing me to yank the first shot. Backed the trigger screw out about a half turn and some creep returned, but smoothed right back. Trigger has worn in and is pretty smooth with about a 2.0-2.5# pull. Tested it yesterday at range and it is good again. Anything I can do to prevent this? The "trigger adjustment screw" you're referring to is your overtravel adjustment. It's there so that the trigger bottoms out against the mag release just after the break and doesn't continue moving to the rear, i.e., overtravel. I'm not sure if what you're actually talking about is "creep" or "pretravel". Creep is what occurs after the slack in the trigger has been taken up and the sear is moving off of the hammer hooks. If the sear isn't cut at the proper angles (primary and relief) or it's engaging the hammer hooks unevenly, you will feel creep as the sear moves off the hooks. A trigger job is the only way to fix a creepy trigger. Pretravel is the slack that gets taken up as you move the trigger to the rear. Some amount of pretravel is necessary in the system for the half cock notch to engage in the event that the hammer falls inadvertently (about 0.025 to 0.040 inch). Pretravel can be removed if your trigger has adjustment tabs on the front of the trigger bow. If you remove it all however, it can cause the hammer to miss the half cock notch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerritm Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 I guess I am calling it the wrong thing. New to me, Glock didnt have it. It does seem to take out some of the pre-travel also. Makes sense what you are saying. I adjusted it so the pre travel/over travel was less and the trigger was crisp. What ever I did worked very well for about 2K rounds and then the over travel changed slightly. I did not touch the screw. Felt like what I would call trigger freeze it became very tight and took more effort to move. More curious what changed and how do I prevent it. Why did it change? Did I just have it set too tight and as it broke in it changed? All good right now. Backed off the screw about a 1/2 turn. Trigger is crisp and for me light. I did measure it at about 2.5#. Gun is broke in and running well. gerritm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler2you Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 If the overtravel screw turns pretty easily, it may be working itself loose under recoil. You may need to back it all the way out and put a little bit of blue Loctite on the threads, then run it in until it's adjusted to your liking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerritm Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 Good idea, thanks. gerritm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 it shouldn't be effecting the pre-travel at all. just so we are on the same page lets agree on a definition of terms. pre-travel - the movement of the trigger to the rear before coming to the trigger break point over travel - the movement of the trigger to the rear after the shot breaks creep - extra movement at the break point due to un-even sear face, poorly cut sear and/or hammer hooks. The screw can only impact over travel. it's the hard stop for the rearward motion of the trigger. the tab (or tabs) on the front of the trigger bar is what adjusts the initial resting place or set point of the trigger Which then determines how far you have to move the trigger to the break point. this is the pre-travel adjustment. people sometimes call this creep too but it's really not. as tyler pointed out you do need a certain amount of both pre and over travel or you run into function issues. the screw moving is quite possible and does happen. a little blue loctite is a good idea just be careful not to get any in the trigger track or in the mag release. it might be worthwhile removing the trigger and setting up the pre-travel too if you feel it has too much. to do this you need to remove the grip off the frame then the trigger bow comes out the back. bending the little tab forward will give less pre-travel but again, you need some so don't get too carried away with having 0.5mm travel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterthefish Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Just one note - if you have metal dental picks or something similar you can adjust pre-travel without stripping the trigger from the frame.Otherwise agree - if the over travel screw works itself in too far you'll have a harder pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 cool idea on using the picks peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerritm Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 By your great description it is over travel. Now I understand the difference. I believe I had it adjusted too close to failure. Backed off the screw, put a little blue loctite and re-adjusted. Feels good. I am happy with how the trigger feels, there is a slight amount of pre-travel with no real creep. Gave it an extra 1/2 turn this time. The initial adjustment when I first got the gun worked for about 2K rounds so something changed. Thanks all, it is a learning experience, Gerrit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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