Comp with Bushing barrel

[shippj]

Just curious and dont have a real answer.   Can you run a comp with a bushing barrel?    I have a marauder I was thinking of putting a comp on.    Looking at my options.  

[Bamboo]

Yes - check out the comps at EGW:  http://www.egwguns.com/comps/conversion-cones/

All of the ones with the word "bushing" in them would be what you are looking for.  You would need to fit a different (longer) barrel that is threaded for the comp and the bushing is then captured on that barrel. 

[shippj]

I guess the next question is which is better, to have a comp with a bushing.   Or refit a bushing barrel slide to accept a bull barrel?

[Bamboo]

What are you going to use it for?  

If it is a dedicated steel challenge gun for low minor to sub-minor loads then a bushing barrel works very well as they tend to run at low power factors easier and reliably.  If you want to run major power factor then the bushing barrel would certainly work, but a bull barrel or a cone type compensator might be better. 

 

[shippj]

the loads will all be minor, 130-135 ish.   (this is my 3-gun pistol).  I was initially thinking of a trubore with a T-1, I heard that comp works well with minor loads.     But intrigued about just running a comp with a bushing.   Wasnt sure how that worked.   

 

 

[zzt]

The only problem with running a bushing comp is added difficulty in stripping the pistol.  The bushing is permanently placed on the barrel behind the comp.  You cannot get a wrench in there, so the bushing has to be loose enough so that you can turn it by hand.  You should have the spring tunnel cut so you can use a 1-piece guide rod and remove and insert the Spring Plug from the rear.

If you buy the longer threaded barrel for the bushing comp and later change your mind, you can go conventional by buying a cone conversion from EGW and use a bull barrel comp.

[rishii]

I had a Wilson comp gun in 45 with a bushing barrel setup, to take it apart I had to unscrew the 2 piece flgr 

and I had a steel bushing wrench that I cut off the top to clear the barrel, it was a pain to take down compared to how we take down a bull or coned barrel setup

for a dedicated 9 minor gun, I would look at something like the steel master setup because it's designed to run factory ammo

 

[shippj]

The steel master was exactly what I was thinking of.  I would like to modify my marauder for a few reasons.  A) Cheaper (Im getting into PRS and dont have extra ends for pistols right now) B ) The marauder already has the slide milled for an optic and C) I like the rail for the night matches.     So Im committed to putting a comp on that gun.   Sounds like the best way is to have it converted to bull barrel.  

 

Does anyone have any lessons learned form converting a slide over to bull?   Im going to send it off to get it done.

[zzt]

You don't have to "convert" a slide to bull barrel.  You just have to fit the new barrel.

I would suggest you seriously consider a coned comp instead of a bull barrel.  It will lower reciprocating mass.  That is a good thing, especially since you haven't said anything about slide lightening.

[shippj]

Im not familiar with coned comp's,   Ill look that up.   

[shippj]

Apologize, it was my understanding that you had to convert the slide by fitting a new reverse plug. 

[BeerBaron]

If you look at the STI slide they are generally cut the same for both bushing or bull barrel. as zzt says you shouldn't have to do any work on the slide.

with the bushing barrel it uses a plug without a shoulder that is retained by the bushing. with the bull barrel you use a plug with shoulder that is retained by the reverse plug tunnel. it should already be cut to accept that type of reverse plug. 

you're options are:

thread existing barrel and fit a cone comp (this effectively tuns it into a bull barrel, but the market of 1 piece cone comps is a bit smaller than bull barrel comps)
thread existing barrel and fit conversion cone and then regular bull barrel comp (same as above basically but now you have a wider choice of comps)
buy longer bushing barrel and use a bushing barrel comp setup
buy a new bull barrel and have it threaded for a bull barrel comp

brazos do their thundercomp in a shorter version (they call TC1) with a cone on it and just 2 up chambers that should work nicely with your sub-major loads: http://www.1911store.com/bcg-thundercomp-2.aspx 

That would work with option 1 above. 

 

[juristrosins]

Sorry for lame and perhaps off-topic question about conversion cone and bull barrel comp - together with the barrel itself they make 3 peace "thing" - bushing barrel->conversion cone->comp. What about durability of this setup? Have anybody had any issues with it?

[stardust tommy]

when you use a comp the front of the slide is cut under a 1° angle or you have to to make a bigger gap between the comp and the slide. there must be a small amount of play between the slide and the comp.

 

when using a Trubor barrel the chance is there that you have to cut the slide to lenght (cut the barrelhood to match the slide and you will see that the barrelhood won't touch the breachface. so you have to trim the slide... so when you want to use your bushing barrel again there will be a small space between the bushing and the front of the slide

[zzt]

It is perfectly acceptable to machine the 1 deg angle on the rear of the comp.  That way you do not have to mill the slide.

j, there are no issues with a conversion cone that is installed properly.  The advantage of a coned comp is reduced reciprocating mass.  If you want faster cycling times, that is a must, even if you do slide lightening.  The cone has to be fit to the slide, just as you would with a bull barrel.  Since the cone and the comp are one piece, you have to fit the cone for each coned comp you plan to use.  The conversion cone has to be fit only once and you can interchange "bull barrel" comps at will.

Another advantage coned comps have over bull barrels is wear.  Eventually a bull barrel will wear, as will the slide and the fit will loosen up.  With a bushing barrel, you simply fit a new bushing.  With a cone, you fit a new cone or coned comp if one-piece.  With a bull barrel, you have to fit a new barrel. 

 

If you don't care about extracting the maximum performance from your gun, go with a bull barrel.  There are many to choose from.  If you want maximum performance, a coned comp is the way to go.  One-piece if you already know what comp works, or you don't mind fitting cones.  Use a conversion cone if you like to experiment with different comps.  You can always switch t one-piece when you find your dream comp.

[Jlaw1949]

I have a Marauder I decided to play with like you are wanting to do.  I started by replacing the whole fire control with EGW, CK Arms SS grip, drilled and tapped the frame for a CK arms DP Pro red dot mount, DP-pro red dot, Wilson Combat multi comp.. I took and really lapped in the fit of the slide to the frame for fit. Each step took a little bit of work and fun time but it made a sweet shooting gun for 9mm minor.  The dot has very little movement!

This isn't for everyone but while costly it was fun for a retired guy and shows what can really be accomplished.

Edited September 6, 2016 by Jlaw1949

[shippj]

Sounds like Im on the same path you are.  Already replaced the trigger group with EGW, fit an SVI trigger bow, extreme grip, milled the slide for a doctor sight.    Now just to put on a comp and lighten the slide a bit.  

[BeerBaron]

9 hours ago, zzt said:

It is perfectly acceptable to machine the 1 deg angle on the rear of the comp.  That way you do not have to mill the slide.

 

Yep I just did this to one of mine that needed some clearance between comp and slide. in fact my gunsmith recommended machining the comp rather than slide. The slide is easier if you're doing it DIY with hand tools but if you have a mill or lathe doing the comp is actually the better method. it also saves you having to refinish the slide...

[PPGMD]

On 9/5/2016 at 0:36 PM, zzt said:

The only problem with running a bushing comp is added difficulty in stripping the pistol.  The bushing is permanently placed on the barrel behind the comp.  You cannot get a wrench in there, so the bushing has to be loose enough so that you can turn it by hand.  You should have the spring tunnel cut so you can use a 1-piece guide rod and remove and insert the Spring Plug from the rear.

If you buy the longer threaded barrel for the bushing comp and later change your mind, you can go conventional by buying a cone conversion from EGW and use a bull barrel comp.

 

MCG just cut the top off Brownells bushing wrench so it can be slide onto the barrel. Stripping the gun is pretty easy since it also has the Dawson Tool less Guide rod. Also I saw a bushing wrench with such a cut from a company at the prize table recently, but I forget who made them.

Edited September 11, 2016 by PPGMD