Which spring changes to stay away from

[IDescribe]

I'm no Glock guru, and there are so many people gaming Glocks that there's almost too much information and opinion to sort through regarding modding a Glock. So I wanted to ask a more pointed question.

I am asking. If the goal is to improve the trigger while maintaining the stellar reliability of the Glock in its stock form, which springs in the fire control group would you absolutely recommend leaving stock?

For the official record, the only mod currently installed is a Ghost EVO Elite connector. I did get the spring kit with it, but I am hesitant to swap out anything other than the FPB spring.

[OPENB]

I've swapped all of them. I think you should keep a close eye on a lightened striker spring. If you get light strikes, replace often. If you use anything but Federal primers, a stronger striker spring might be prudent. The DK trigger came with all the springs for replacement.

[SCTaylor]

For absolute reliability, leave it how you have it. My carry gun(s) is/are all stock, have not had a malf that wasn't ammo related.

In my Gen 4 G35 the heavier trigger spring causes issues with fully resetting the trigger, it works but does not always let the trigger all the way out. The gun has a full zev spring kit with lightened striker. If I start running the G35 again, the stock trigger spring will go back in.

Edited June 21, 2016 by SCTaylor

[bowenbuilt]

The trigger return spring would remain stock. The striker spring would be changed to a 4.5# spring, the recoil spring would be changed to a 13# spring to balance the striker spring change along with the lightened FPB spring. This gives a fairly good trigger with a minus connector and may be a little mushy with the Evo but reduces the stock trigger pull and generally gives an improved trigger pull with very good reliability. With a lightened striker it gives 100% reliabilty with any primer save for the hardened rifle primers for 223.

For EDC guns I don't change anything because when the shit hits the fan you won't know a light trigger from a hard one anyway.

Edited June 21, 2016 by bowenbuilt

[Marshal82]

The trigger return spring would remane stock. The striker spring would be changed to a 4.5# spring, the recoil spring would be changed to a 13# spring along with the lightened FPB spring. This gives a fairly good trigger with a minus connector and may be a mushy with the Evo but reduces the stock trigger pull and generally gives an improved trigger pull with very good reliability. With a lightened striker it gives 100% reliabilty with any primer save for the hardened rifle primers for 223.

^^^What he said. I always leave the trigger spring stock, use a reduced power safety pin spring. Usually a 4.5 or 5lb striker spring. I still use the factory striker that I tune myself.

[nwhpfan]

It's been my observation you get the most improvement out of the striker spring. And just reducing it 5# can make a pretty nice difference.

You might just want to buy a heavier trigger return spring and light firing pin safety spring and striker spring and try out the combinations to see what you like.

You may have issues with the trigger not returning if you run a light firing pin spring and heavy trigger return spring.

[bowenbuilt]

The one big thing is it only takes a few minutes to change the springs and to change the springs back. Try the spring pack you have except for the trigger spring, it does not make enough of a difference you can feel and the heavier spring will not bring the trigger completely back most of the time so to me it's useless. The 4.5 striker spring makes a big difference. Give it a try and let us know what you think.

[TacticalReload]

I've never had an issue with a heavier trigger spring failing to return the trigger fully... it does, however, feel a little more sluggish. I'm not anywhere near a fast enough shooter to out run the trigger, but others may find it to be an issue I suppose. Most of my experience has been with Gen3 guns as I have only put about 5k rounds through various Gen4 guns and most of them were on stock guns.

I've gone with as light as a 4# striker spring, 11# recoil spring on a tungsten guide rod, reduced striker block spring on a re-contoured block, and extra power trigger spring (all Wolff) mated with the stock striker and Ghost Rocket connector (all parts highly polished). It was 100% with properly seated Federal primers in .40 minor loads. I've also used a Vanek trigger in a Gen4 with a 4# striker spring that was 100% with Federal and Winchester primers, but this was with the Jager lightened striker. I'm not sure which trigger spring weight he uses, but he does relocate the connection point on the trigger bar. In both cases, the pull was around the 3 to 3.25# mark although the Vanek trigger was slightly more crisp with a more positive reset. At the end of the day, though, we are talking about Glocks... despite what the fanboys say, they don't exactly have the best triggers in the world.

If you want the utmost in reliability, just run it stock with a minus connector and polished parts. Using a polished and / or re-contoured striker block with a lighter striker spring is a good way to smooth the pull and lighten it a small bit without affecting reliability. As mentioned, a lighter striker spring will go the farthest toward reducing the pull weight, but IMO is also the spring change that is most likely to reliability issues (light strikes) with some ammo.

[Honeybooboo]

The trigger return spring would remain stock. The striker spring would be changed to a 4.5# spring, the recoil spring would be changed to a 13# spring to balance the striker spring change along with the lightened FPB spring. This gives a fairly good trigger with a minus connector and may be a little mushy with the Evo but reduces the stock trigger pull and generally gives an improved trigger pull with very good reliability. With a lightened striker it gives 100% reliabilty with any primer save for the hardened rifle primers for 223.

For EDC guns I don't change anything because when the shit hits the fan you won't know a light trigger from a hard one anyway.

How does the recoil spring affect the striker spring? I understand that using a light recoil spring with a stock striker spring could cause out of battery situations. But how would using a light striker spring with a stock recoil spring affect things?

[SCTaylor]

HB - It won't. Problem with the light recoil and strong striker is they work against each other; ie recoil won't overcome striker spring causing the gun to be out of battery.

[HCH]

If you stick with the factory striker, use the factory striker spring.

[HCH]

If you stick with the factory striker, use the factory striker spring.

[JBP55]

If you stick with the factory striker, use the factory striker spring.

I agree with the factory trigger spring but a 4.5# or 5# FPS helps to reduce the trigger pull on a range pistol.

Edited July 7, 2016 by JBP55

[Polymer]

From my experience, trigger spring does more harm than good.

[mikeyjones]

If you stick with the factory striker, use the factory striker spring.

Or unless you can use Federal primers...

[Nik Habicht]

If you stick with the factory striker, use the factory striker spring.

Or unless you can use Federal primers...

After years of playing with Glocks (shooting Federal primers deeply seated on a 1050) I've gone back to stock striker and recoil springs......

....and for carry guns I've gone to a NY1 trigger return spring and a - connector after experiencing a couple of trigger return spring failures at matches.....

Honestly for me, the difference in trigger resistance isn't that big a deal anymore. Lighter triggers and 147 gr. loads helped a lot as I was learning how to shoot; then at some point it stopped mattering....

[JBP55]

Old, weak, disabled shooters have difficulty with hard to rack slides and heavy trigger pulls in some pistols and both can be enhanced and remain reliable.

[Norone]

Great thread. I have run Glocks in combat theaters and home in competition for 10+ years. I have my R/D G35 and my competition one.
For 9 and 40 duty ammo you can do a 15lb Ismi and its just fine. For duty trigger work I wanted more bang and less on the lite trigger so I did a collective work that did the trick. Coils off the plunger spring and the stock striker spring with a 3.5 and polished very well and trigger shoe work. Left the trigger spring alone as I didn't care. Used Winchester duty ammo, on dirty no extra oil, used again and again in heat and cold and its kept on rocking with a consistent better and lighter break.
Competition pistol I run the razors edge in training to push the limits and adjust when light hits happen. One limited was 4lb striker spring was the floor for winchester primers after a few thousand rounds and no cleaning. Kept on trucking'..... on all Zev parts.

[JOThompson]

The trigger return spring would remain stock. The striker spring would be changed to a 4.5# spring, the recoil spring would be changed to a 13# spring to balance the striker spring change along with the lightened FPB spring. This gives a fairly good trigger with a minus connector and may be a little mushy with the Evo but reduces the stock trigger pull and generally gives an improved trigger pull with very good reliability. With a lightened striker it gives 100% reliabilty with any primer save for the hardened rifle primers for 223.

For EDC guns I don't change anything because when the shit hits the fan you won't know a light trigger from a hard one anyway.

Been wondering about this myself, thanks for posting. Tagged for later review

[Daft]

Steller reliability in competition? Depends on ammo. If for something else, leave it stock.