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I'm a new Tanfoglio owner so I am reading the bible. Here are some issues I found with the bible that could be updated:

 

The Last Round Armament link in the vendor section leads to a dead webpage.

The Henning Gen 4 v Gen 5 firing pin thread link under BEnos forums no longer exists.

Under Gunsmiths - Richard Dettelhouser (Canyon Creek Custom - may not be accepting new work) - leads to a 404 error webpage

 

I'll add more as I keep reading!

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16 minutes ago, Rugbyrat said:

I'm a new Tanfoglio owner so I am reading the bible. Here are some issues I found with the bible that could be updated:

 

The Last Round Armament link in the vendor section leads to a dead webpage.

The Henning Gen 4 v Gen 5 firing pin thread link under BEnos forums no longer exists.

Under Gunsmiths - Richard Dettelhouser (Canyon Creek Custom - may not be accepting new work) - leads to a 404 error webpage

 

I'll add more as I keep reading!

 

Just stop reading and order things from Patriot Defense. After they released all the internals that are out now... setting up a DA/SA gun is an entirely different and simpler ballgame.

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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

Just stop reading and order things from Patriot Defense. After they released all the internals that are out now... setting up a DA/SA gun is an entirely different and simpler ballgame.

Done earlier today. Thanks MM!

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  • 1 month later...

I have two Tanfos, both 10mm's, one in a P Carry and the other a Steel. The P Carry was my first [reluctant] purchase since I had looked for several years for the full size Steel with the "Wonder Finish." Saw one at a gun show and became enamored with the "golden" gun tho' it was not in the 10mm caliber I wanted. So after looking and not finding what I lusted for, well over a year, I settled on the P Carry.

 

After that first purchase, I did some reading on what other 10 owners were doing with theirs. I decided to put the Henning firing pin and other springs upgrade but at the last minute, I went with the DPM Systems recoil reduction system. I saw the DPM was using something called progressive springing (3 separate springs that engage at different points in the slide operation). I don't see this product mentioned on this forum or any other for that matter. I was wondering if there was a reason or just that no one has tried this option?  The DPM came with two user configurable "outer" springs with different spring rates. I found the stiffer spring difficult to rack so started with the lighter one.  This worked ok with the "factory" ammo I bought. After throwing the factory stuff in front of my LabRadar, I was pretty disappointed with the ammo performance... it was obvious they had dialed it back to the 40 S&W level. Not only that, all I could find in bulk was a 180 FMJ projectile (a truncated cone with a flat point), no HP.

 

I bought a 10 and expected 10 performance so I started reloading my own with a variety of weights, 135, 155, 165 & 180, all JHP. My first outing with "middle of the road" powder charges using 8.8 grains of HS-6, I exceeded the 180 factory velocities with plenty of room to spare for more powder and my need for speed. When I cleaned the P Carry, I noticed the recoil spring bushing (under the end of the barrel) had developed some dings. I assume this was from the upgraded recoil spring assembly. So I've switched to the heavier rate spring. Since I've only shot my initial reloads, I have to wait until I've reloaded more to see how the heavier spring will fare. It does have me concerned but not overly. But I'm jumping ahead of my story.

 

About 6 months after I bought the P Carry, I found a Steel with the Wonder Finish as desired. So now I have 2 10's. I've only had it out several times and it still has the original stock springs.

 

As I continue my load development for both pistols, I see that I will likely have two loads, a slightly softer load for the polymer frame and a more 10-worthy load for the Steel.

 

Before I get really into specific loads for the Steel, it needs some upgrades. Given the dinged bushing on the P-Carry, I wanted to go a different route with the recoil spring and guide rod. I've looked at Henning and Sprinco. At face value, I'm prone to go with the Sprinco product because it uses two nested springs, similar to the DPM. However, I like that Henning has developed his brass "shock buffer," inserting at the rear of the guide rod, to soak up the battering from full power loads.

 

My concern with the Henning guide rod and a single Wolfe spring is how hard it will become to rack the slide manually. An old sporting injury with my left thumb is making the P-Carry, with the stiffer [outer] spring difficult to rack. Will the Henning/Wolfe combo prove to be unmanageable?

 

So after that long winded explanation, my question is; given a choice between the Sprinco or the Henning recoil control products, which would you choose and why?

 

And thanks for the great forum.

 

Thanks,

LekiM 

 

 

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I've been shooting 10mm Tanfoglios for about 10 years.*  I just go with the Henning guide rod and slightly heavier recoil spring.  I would note that this has mostly been the with the Match model and a little bit with the Limited, rather than the base steel or poly guns.  

 

Lots of folks go down a silly path with 10mm Tanfos because they misunderstand the role of recoil springs in tilting-barrel locked breech guns, and because they misconstrue brass ejection patterns in them.  

 

Recoil springs aren't what hold the action closed - that's what the JMB-derived locking system does.  They are also relatively ineffective in "saving the frame" from "battering."  And heavier springs will do more to "batter" the slide and slide stop cross-element on closing.  I have found 16 or 18 lb springs to be sufficient.  

 

These guns will put 10mm brass into low earth orbit.  That's not because they are "undersprung," as many wrongly believe, but because the ejector is part of the frame assembly (sear cage) and is intended to accommodate top-end assemblies of a variety of calibers including 9mm.  When the slide begins to move to the rear, the extractor claw (on the right side of the chamber when viewed from above) is pulling on the rim.  After a certain amount of travel to the rear, the left side of the brass's base contacts the ejector.  These two inputs are working against each other, and "pop" the case to the right and up - springing it free from the extractor's grip and throwing it clear from the action.  

 

In order to get enough ejection force on the smaller and less-energetic (from a recoil-driven-system perspective) 9mm cartridge, the Tanfoglio ejector is quite long... much longer than is necessary for, say, 10mm cartridges.  Result: Brass go far.  10mm Tanfoglios, in my experience, eject and feed very reliably, but they do toss the brass a long way.  If you want to tame this, removing some material from the ejector is the way to do it.  

 

I can't speak to the difficulty-of-racking issue, except to say that I don't have any difficulty with it.  I have moderately strong hands, but not the orangutan levels of grip strength that a lot of elite competitive shooters posses.  I do think the slide-in-frame design of these guns makes the old-fashioned "slingshot" grip far more effective than the now-fashionable "overhand" grip.  I pinch the rear serrations between my thumb and the proximal interphalangeal joint (google it, this is the most precise term) of my index finger of my left hand.  I think this is the best option for these guns when sprung at 16 or more pounds.  (With 8lb gamer recoil springs, all kinds of other options work.)  

 

* I "roll my own" ammo, and, yes, a chunk of what I shoot is "real 10mm." 

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I'm thinking of buying a Stock 2 for production (IPSC). My dilemma is should I get the xtreme or non xtreme. For one my Limited Custom is the chrome one and I prefer that look over the weird xtreme coating. Second I'd like to keep the original trigger for better DA reach. On the other hand the xtreme AFAIK comes ready to roll out of the box with few extra mags. 

 

If I would go with the non xtreme what would I have to do beyond polishing to get a good trigger. From where I live I can get EG parts, PD Bolo, PD Springs and some Henning parts. 

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  • 11 months later...

I have seen bits and pieces on how to identify Witness small / large frames and I genned up this to have it all in one place. There are may be other subtle differences but these positively will identify them.

 

Note, measurements have some bit of wiggle based on my vernier and Tanfo tolerances but not so wide as to have one measurement get even close to the other.

 

tanfoglio_small_large_frame_differences.jpg

Edited by gnappi
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On 6/10/2016 at 10:46 AM, MemphisMechanic said:

Think I found the new links to some of the old posts:

 

Tanfoglio Glossary of Terms - read this if you're new! Tanfoglio Glossary of Terms - Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG) - Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!
Small vs Large Frame differences Small vs large frame - Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG) - Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!
Tanfo Chop Shop - Post your project guns here EAA/Tanfoglio Chop Shop - NO SELLING OR TRADING - Page 62 - Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG) - Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!
CZ SP-01 Shadow vs Tanfoglio Stock 2 Cz SP01 Shadow vs Tanfoglio Stock 2 - CZ - Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!
How to extract a firing pin stuck through breechface Firing pin stuck - Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG) - Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!
FTF (Stock 3 wouldn't feed. Burr in firing pin hole on breechface)  
Henning Gen 4 vs Gen 5 firing pin Henning gen 3 vs gen5 pin - Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG) - Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!
Comparison of 5 common Tanfo firing pins  
Edited by Degnan
Removed old dead links
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