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Square Deal B - 1st Time Reloader - What Essential Did I Miss?


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Hello everyone! I've never reloaded before, but am planning on starting soon, and am looking for some wisdom from those who know about reloading and specifically, the Square Deal B!

I picked the SDB because I only plan to reload 9mm now, and if I load another caliber in the future, it will likely be 40 S&W or .45 ACP (if I want to shoot major in USPSA), but I sold my .45 due to the cost of shooting it, so at the moment, I only own a 9mm and it will likely be next year before I buy another gun. I don't own any rifles other than my .22 and don't have anywhere to shoot long distances anyway so I don't believe I'll need to load rifle calibers.

I'm currently shooting 250 rounds a month or less. Although I just started getting into USPSA and have had a blast at the last couple local matches, so I could really see myself shooting a lot more in the near future. I've been shooting Freedom Munitions HUSH ammo, which is 165 grain 9mm, and it's around 37 cents a round from them. By my figures, I think I could load it for 14 or 15 cents a round (with free range brass), which would let me shoot more matches than I can currently afford! After I get the press, I could see ramping up to shooting maybe 500-1000 rounds per month.

I'm getting a small bonus from work, and I plan to use that money to get the press and all the start up equipment that I'll need. I'm just checking to make sure I'm not missing anything!

I've picked out from this website:

1. Square Deal B

2. Strong mount

3. Bullet and case tray for the strong mount

4. Brian Enos digital caliper

5. 9mm case gauge

6. 4 primer pickup tubes

7. Primer flip tray

8. Machine cover (to keep the cats from messing with the machine!)

I also picked out a digital scale on Amazon which is accurate to .001 and getting great reviews and is only $25.99.. I don't have enough forum cred to link to it, but it's a Gemini-20 by American Weigh Scales.

Aside from bullets/powder/primers.. am I missing anything essential?

I cleaned my first batch of brass yesterday by hand with soapy water. After going through all the brass I had on hand (around 1500-1600 cases), I'm pretty sure a tumbler will be my next reloading purchase, but I'm cutting the budget close as it is right now, so I'm going to have to make due with manually cleaning the brass for now.

I'm curious if the wrench set/hex keys are essential to getting started, and how often people use the spare parts? It says that the wrench fits the dies and powder measure. Is this something I could use a wrench out of my tool set on?

Does that mean I can't adjust the powder throw without that wrench at all, or is it for removing the powder measure when switching calibers? What about the 6 hex keys? I already have a bunch of those, so I'm assuming I don't need these specific ones? I'm only loading 9mm, so I won't be taking anything apart once I initially get it set up, will I? Since I'm not messing with the adjustments or switching calibers, will that help me to not lose or break any parts that might be contained in the spare parts kit? I've read that it comes from the factory ready to go with the caliber you pick at checkout, so would I really need to adjust anything at all? Maybe just bullet seating depth and powder charge?

I know that we're only talking like $60 of savings on a $700 purchase by not getting the tool holder/wrench/hex keys and spare parts, but the budget is getting tight with all the essentials and not leaving much left for reloading components! Since I'm starting with nothing but the brass I've picked up here and there, I want to put as much money as I can into bullets/primers/powder, and not spend money on something I won't need right away. $60 is another 400 or so rounds I could make! :)

Any advice is welcome, and I look forward to drinking the blue Koolaid soon! :)

Edited by Dlister70
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You'll be fine without the tool kit and tool holder. The SDB uses standard imperial size hex keys and wrenches.

I have two SDB's and load regularly for the past year and haven't needed a spare parts kit, yet...

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If budget is tight save on the strong mount and bullet tray and just mount directly to bench or to a decent piece of wood (then clamp that to bench). Without the strong mount you no longer need the bullet tray as a box of bullets on the bench will be right next to the press.

From memory the press will ship with the Allen keys you need (just not as nice as the ones I the toolkit). And yes a basic wrench can adjust the powder drop.

I'd suggest by the Lyman 1200 tumbler. It comes with media that will last a year and the slotted lid means you just need a bucket to separate media from brass.

The gem20 scale is fine.

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The strong mount is nice but not needed if budget is tight. I have one but not a bullet or case tray. Nice but not really needed. everything else looks good.

BeerBaron is right. you will need some way to clean brass. Tumbling in walnut or corn cobb is what the vast majority do.

You could just wash the brass and lay out overnight to dry.

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The bullet tray for me on the square deal makes it tight to load a bullet into the case.Get some hornaday one shot case lube it will make reloading a lot smoother especially if your going to wash you brass.Make sure you build a strong reloading bench! The strong mount is nice but The money saved would leave you enough to build a really sturdy bench.I used 3 4x4's and 3/4" sheet of plywood (not press board) I braced mine with the 4x4 on both ends and the middle,it's rock solid..If that's to big of a bench for your room look at Home Depot for some 1/2 sheets .If your going to use a digital scale make sure you get a set of weights to check the scale.I just use a lee scale I've had for years like over 20 years,new there about 25.00 .Id trust the lee scale over a cheaper digital myself.

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1. Square Deal B

2. Strong mount

3. Bullet and case tray for the strong mount

4. Brian Enos digital caliper

5. 9mm case gauge

6. 4 primer pickup tubes

7. Primer flip tray

8. machine cover

9. digital scale

I

You don't need the items I've underlined.

You do need a chrono ($70). :cheers:

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You should get a tumbler, I run walnut then corn, turns crap brass into clean and shiny, ready to load, no need for case lube. Harbor freight calipers are fine, you are only checking OAL. As Jack said, you don't need anything he underlined. Your best bet is to have a shooting buddy who already runs a SD to help you set it up. Reloading doesn't save you any money, it just lets you load more caps for the same $$$$.

image37341.jpg

image36947.jpg

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If budget is tight save on the strong mount and bullet tray and just mount directly to bench

I'd suggest by the Lyman 1200 tumbler. It comes with media that will last a year and the slotted lid means you just need a bucket to separate media from brass.

I am planning on mounting the Square Deal to an old sturdy desk that is 30" tall, and anchoring the desk to a wall stud in a few places. I figured the strong mount would give me the option to stand while loading without having to do much bending, and I could sit on a bar stool as well. I guess without the strong mount I could just sit in a computer chair instead of a bar stool. The $130 saved from removing the strong mount and bullet trays would be helpful, and if I find it uncomfortable to load, I could always buy them later. I think that's a good call!

I've read that the Lyman 1200 has problems with throwing media dust around your work bench while it's running because of the sifter top. Is that an over exaggeration? I don't have a garage, so this is going to be a strictly indoors operation, and I'd like to keep it as dust free as I can. I'd even considered using an old colander from the kitchen as a media separator and just getting a cheap Harbor Freight tumbler. For the tumbler, noise is probably going to be one of the bigger factors in which one I buy, since it's going to be running indoors while my wife is home! :) I have to try to figure out which one is quieter without being able to run any of them, so I'm just relying of what I read in reviews.

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1. Square Deal B

2. Strong mount

3. Bullet and case tray for the strong mount

4. Brian Enos digital caliper

5. 9mm case gauge

6. 4 primer pickup tubes

7. Primer flip tray

8. machine cover

9. digital scale

I

You don't need the items I've underlined.

You do need a chrono ($70). :cheers:

Well, I think I've talked myself out of the strong mount and bullet trays. But why wouldn't I need a case gauge? I figured that was one of the essentials to making sure you are within tolerances and staying safe. If it doesn't drop in, you reject the round. But I guess it may be redundant if you are using your caliper to check the crimp and the overall length?

I do need a chrono to make sure I'm making power factor with my rounds, that's a good point!

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You want to load standing up. Mount your SD so the handle is almost square(not above, just below) to your shoulders. I'm 6'2" and the handle is 56" from the floor. Get a Frankford Arsenal quick and ezy tumbler for $35. Mine has lasted for over 18 years, had to replace the bowl just recently because it finally wore thru. Turns out a Harbor Freight bowel is the same. Use a couple of teaspoons of mineral oil in you walnut, let it mix up good first, then a couple of teaspoons of NuFinish in the corn. Run without the tops on, much less noise, and no dust because of the additives. About 500 cases at a time. I run each over night on an appliance timer. Get your media at pet stores, way, way cheaper.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/FRANKFORD-ARSENAL-QUICK-N-EZ-CASE-TUMBLER/2077159.uts?productVariantId=4351376&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=04290644&rid=20&gclid=CPbn1vKNvswCFdKIfgodwycKfw&gclsrc=aw.ds

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You can check crimp with a case gage, but it's better to do the plunk test in your gun's barrel. Don't get hung up on crimp, which is really "de-belling" from the powder thru station. Use the "wipe test" as shown in the pic, Kato mark the case after seat before crimp, and it should wipe only about .005"-.010" on the case mouth. Keep in mind cases will vary about .+/- .005 also. Only enough to take away the bell, that's all. I only load 125's in 9mm, but see alot of guys starting to run the 160's. Some of the IPSC hosers from down under are running up to 175! But thats because the bullets spin the wrong way and rise up.

image37113.jpg

Montana Gold, Bayou, Hornady, Bear Creek

image37177.jpg

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You should get a tumbler, I run walnut then corn, turns crap brass into clean and shiny, ready to load, no need for case lube. Harbor freight calipers are fine, you are only checking OAL. As Jack said, you don't need anything he underlined. Your best bet is to have a shooting buddy who already runs a SD to help you set it up. Reloading doesn't save you any money, it just lets you load more caps for the same $$$$.

image37341.jpg

image36947.jpg

Wow, that's a nice setup you've got there!

My soapy bucket washed brass certainly doesn't look as good as this! But (hopefully) it should run just fine for my first batches of ammo, and then I should be able to get a tumbler in the next month or so before I've gone through the 1700ish brass that I have now.

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Wow, that's a lot cheaper than the Dillon 750 I was looking at! :) 500 rounds at a time would be more than enough for me. I hadn't considered removing the lid to save on noise, and I guess I could put some saran wrap over the top if dust did become a problem! :)

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Strip your pistol and use the barrel to check that completed rounds will chamber.

Good point. I guess the barrel that I'm shooting it out of is the best case gauge of all, and not an added expense!

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Pert, Yes, a known hazard of wet tumbling.....

Dlister, there won't be any dust, none at all, if you use the additives. It loads the media up, and there is no dust, zero, nothing. You might consider a case separator from FrankFord Arsenal also, makes quick work out of sorting media from cases.

http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/972948/frankford-arsenal-quick-n-ez-rotary-media-separator?cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading+-+Metallic+Reloading+Equipment+(Not+Presses)-_-Frankford+Arsenal-_-972948&gclid=CM2CzbmTvswCFceBfgodMCIODQ

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I tried a similar battery powered led flex light, the batteries didn't last long, and always quit in the middle of a session. The InlineFab one runs off a wall plug with inline switch. It also fits in an area that never gets bumped, in the way, or jiggles during press use. Super bright and slimline. Worth it.

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Mighty Brite up close, and primer HazMat catch tray. 20% of the lead you will breathe in from gun exhaust comes from the lead styphnate in the primer. So even if you shoot jacketed bullets, you can still be up to 6 on blood lead. And I'm taking guys who shoot matches 6-8 times a month, outside. When the primer gets punched out, there is residue from the lead styphnate, this way it's captured in the tray and is coated out with motor oil, again, no dust.

image37346.jpg

image37347.jpg

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scrmblr, yea, my buddy has one of those on his 650, they are nice. But I found the Mighty Brite to be almost as good, they are not cheap Chineese ones, they go for up to 12 hours.

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My SD is "bump less" Got rid of the powder safety linkage and went old school, like the original 550s. No clunking, no bumping, just smooth running man.... Dillon does not recommend this.

image37348.jpg

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My SD is "bump less" Got rid of the powder safety linkage and went old school, like the original 550s. No clunking, no bumping, just smooth running man.... Dillon does not recommend this.

image37348.jpg

Tempting mod.

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