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Trigger Pin removal help


beachbum17

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I'm taking apart my 2011 CZ shadow (91705). I ordered up some Cajun springs and extended firing pin. Planned on doing the atlas tuning and it has came part easy so far, but I can get the trigger pin out and yes I'm hitting it the correct way (right to left). I've tired flat and roll pin punch hard and soft taps with rubber mallet and can't get it to move. The other pins all came out easy.

Any advice?

Good news is most of the polish spots were already done by custom shop, hardly anything I have to touch up.

Edited by beachbum17
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Rubber mallet? You trying to tickle it or move it? Get the gun solidly supported--or grab it in a soft jawed vise---and hit the

punch with a hammer. Not a little bitty brass one--a real hammer. Those trigger pins can be a B!^(H . Buy the stepped

slip in pin from Cajun, and a couple of spare trigger return springs while you are there.

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Removing the factory trigger pin with a starter punch is usually a breeze. Most of mine have been damaged on removal. The replacement trigger pin from CGW goes in and out with a standard punch very easily. It is retained by the trigger return spring rather than the flaring of the factory trigger pin.

Starter Punch

https://cajungunworks.com/product/sp-forged-steel-starter-punch/

CGW Floating trigger pin

https://cajungunworks.com/product/tr-pin-cgws-exclusive-floating-trigger-pin/

Edited by Tok36
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It's a solid two sided rubber mallet meant for punches, but yeah could use a mallet and I have a starter punch and all my other parts coming tomorrow. Just got anxious to get a head start.

Only have fitz polish and Cotten wheels until my fine sandpaper comes tomorrow too, but got a good head start.

I will try the starter punch. Thanks!

Edited by beachbum17
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The trigger pin still didn't come out with starter punch and metal mallet. Can't get it to even budge. I think I'll end up drilling it out with a .080" or so drill size since the pin is .086".

The rest I got after some time. The double action pull was having a held up With the trigger back every 1/20, but after some lube and working trigger few hundred times with a snap cap, seems to be almost non existent. I'm guessing the pre fitted type 1 disco was just a hair oversized. Guess range session this week will tell.

How do I post photos?

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The trigger pin still didn't come out with starter punch and metal mallet. Can't get it to even budge. I think I'll end up drilling it out with a .080" or so drill size since the pin is .086".

The rest I got after some time. The double action pull was having a held up With the trigger back every 1/20, but after some lube and working trigger few hundred times with a snap cap, seems to be almost non existent. I'm guessing the pre fitted type 1 disco was just a hair oversized. Guess range session this week will tell.

How do I post photos?

You really have to smack it if you're using mallet + starter punch. I put mine in a vise and gave it some very hard and focused hits to get it moving.
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I think I'll end up drilling it out with a .080" or so drill size since the pin is .086".

NO NO NO you don't want to do this! If you do most likely you will drill the frame, then what are you going to do. Just hit the starter punch HARD with a big hammer! May take 4-5 hard hits. It only has to move 1/8" then you use a pin punch.

Edited by CZ85Combat
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The last Shadow I worked on shocked me, the pin had to go out from Left to right. First time I've had to do that, but the flare on the right side was waaaay bigger than on the left, replaced it with a CGW pin too

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The last Shadow I worked on shocked me, the pin had to go out from Left to right. First time I've had to do that, but the flare on the right side was waaaay bigger than on the left, replaced it with a CGW pin too

Yes.

Make sure you are hitting it on the side with less flare. It may not always be the same side.

After that, use a big hammer and don't be gentle. Hit it hard, just like the others have said.

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Make sure you remove the grips and safety, get frame laying flat, and hit the side with less pin flare. I had one that I had to hit so hard I thought I was going to break the frame. Use a hammer and starter punch, you'll bend a standard 3 mm punch.

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I think I'll end up drilling it out with a .080" or so drill size since the pin is .086".

NO NO NO you don't want to do this! If you do most likely you will drill the frame, then what are you going to do. Just hit the starter punch HARD with a big hammer! May take 4-5 hard hits. It only has to move 1/8" then you use a pin punch.

Not a problem at all given the right equipment - I would agree that it would be folly to attempt with a hand drill, but it's nothing with a drill press. I had to drill out the pin in my Shadow the last time I needed to get to the trigger. I don't recall the size bit I used, but there was no chance of hitting the frame with it.

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I've never ever heard of drilling out the pin, and I've done rusted in ones. I've had to use a press before, but would never drill.

As mentioned above, sometimes the flared out side is on the right side, usually on the left.

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