beachbum17 Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 (edited) I'm taking apart my 2011 CZ shadow (91705). I ordered up some Cajun springs and extended firing pin. Planned on doing the atlas tuning and it has came part easy so far, but I can get the trigger pin out and yes I'm hitting it the correct way (right to left). I've tired flat and roll pin punch hard and soft taps with rubber mallet and can't get it to move. The other pins all came out easy. Any advice? Good news is most of the polish spots were already done by custom shop, hardly anything I have to touch up. Edited March 18, 2016 by beachbum17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Have you tried a starter punch and a heavy hammer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open17 Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Rubber mallet? You trying to tickle it or move it? Get the gun solidly supported--or grab it in a soft jawed vise---and hit the punch with a hammer. Not a little bitty brass one--a real hammer. Those trigger pins can be a B!^(H . Buy the stepped slip in pin from Cajun, and a couple of spare trigger return springs while you are there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tok36 Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 (edited) Removing the factory trigger pin with a starter punch is usually a breeze. Most of mine have been damaged on removal. The replacement trigger pin from CGW goes in and out with a standard punch very easily. It is retained by the trigger return spring rather than the flaring of the factory trigger pin. Starter Punch https://cajungunworks.com/product/sp-forged-steel-starter-punch/ CGW Floating trigger pin https://cajungunworks.com/product/tr-pin-cgws-exclusive-floating-trigger-pin/ Edited March 18, 2016 by Tok36 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachbum17 Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 (edited) It's a solid two sided rubber mallet meant for punches, but yeah could use a mallet and I have a starter punch and all my other parts coming tomorrow. Just got anxious to get a head start. Only have fitz polish and Cotten wheels until my fine sandpaper comes tomorrow too, but got a good head start. I will try the starter punch. Thanks! Edited March 18, 2016 by beachbum17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachbum17 Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 The trigger pin still didn't come out with starter punch and metal mallet. Can't get it to even budge. I think I'll end up drilling it out with a .080" or so drill size since the pin is .086". The rest I got after some time. The double action pull was having a held up With the trigger back every 1/20, but after some lube and working trigger few hundred times with a snap cap, seems to be almost non existent. I'm guessing the pre fitted type 1 disco was just a hair oversized. Guess range session this week will tell. How do I post photos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZachJ Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 The trigger pin still didn't come out with starter punch and metal mallet. Can't get it to even budge. I think I'll end up drilling it out with a .080" or so drill size since the pin is .086". The rest I got after some time. The double action pull was having a held up With the trigger back every 1/20, but after some lube and working trigger few hundred times with a snap cap, seems to be almost non existent. I'm guessing the pre fitted type 1 disco was just a hair oversized. Guess range session this week will tell. How do I post photos? You really have to smack it if you're using mallet + starter punch. I put mine in a vise and gave it some very hard and focused hits to get it moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZ85Combat Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 (edited) I think I'll end up drilling it out with a .080" or so drill size since the pin is .086". NO NO NO you don't want to do this! If you do most likely you will drill the frame, then what are you going to do. Just hit the starter punch HARD with a big hammer! May take 4-5 hard hits. It only has to move 1/8" then you use a pin punch. Edited March 20, 2016 by CZ85Combat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachbum17 Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share Posted March 20, 2016 Alright I'll skip the drilling and give it some more smacks. I'll have a range report on how it shoots tomorrow and if the DA stroke gets hung up like my dry firing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 The last Shadow I worked on shocked me, the pin had to go out from Left to right. First time I've had to do that, but the flare on the right side was waaaay bigger than on the left, replaced it with a CGW pin too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachbum17 Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share Posted March 20, 2016 It's so flared (pinned) on the left side, it's hard to imagine I could push it through left to right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthoefer Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 The last Shadow I worked on shocked me, the pin had to go out from Left to right. First time I've had to do that, but the flare on the right side was waaaay bigger than on the left, replaced it with a CGW pin too Yes. Make sure you are hitting it on the side with less flare. It may not always be the same side. After that, use a big hammer and don't be gentle. Hit it hard, just like the others have said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leemoe83 Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Make sure you remove the grips and safety, get frame laying flat, and hit the side with less pin flare. I had one that I had to hit so hard I thought I was going to break the frame. Use a hammer and starter punch, you'll bend a standard 3 mm punch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachbum17 Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share Posted March 20, 2016 Range test went great. I think I will switch to 13lb or 12lb recoil. 14lb was jumping down too much. But other than that it shot great! I'll tackle the stubborn trigger pin at a later date. Thanks guys for help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walküre Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 I think I'll end up drilling it out with a .080" or so drill size since the pin is .086". NO NO NO you don't want to do this! If you do most likely you will drill the frame, then what are you going to do. Just hit the starter punch HARD with a big hammer! May take 4-5 hard hits. It only has to move 1/8" then you use a pin punch. Not a problem at all given the right equipment - I would agree that it would be folly to attempt with a hand drill, but it's nothing with a drill press. I had to drill out the pin in my Shadow the last time I needed to get to the trigger. I don't recall the size bit I used, but there was no chance of hitting the frame with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultimase Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Like it was said above, starter punch and a metal hammer. A rubber mallet isn't going to help you move that pin easily. I would also highly suggest avoiding the drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 I've never ever heard of drilling out the pin, and I've done rusted in ones. I've had to use a press before, but would never drill. As mentioned above, sometimes the flared out side is on the right side, usually on the left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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