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Light Striking SP01...


Reverendpdp
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I recently misdiagnosed the problem I had with my SP01. Originally I thought it was randomly going into double-action mode from SA, but after following the advise of a few fine folks on this forum I discovered that it was "light striking."

Now for a brief history. I recently upgraded some of the OEM parts. I replaced the trigger, hammer, etc., with CGW Short Rest System (SRS-1), RRK-D/C, an adjustable sear, and a CZC Comp Hammer.

With about 300 rounds through it, the FP has light-struck the round on 4 different occasions.

On the different thread it was advised that I replace the new extended FP (that came in the CGW SRS kit), with an extended version from CZCustom, and to replace the FP spring with the 2075 (RAMI) version. Well I got those parts in and am about to install them, but I just noticed the the RAMI FP spring (#10120) is quite a bit beefier than the light spring that came with the CGW kit. Is this correct?

Once I install the new spring, should I go to a lighter mainspring? It has the blue (13#) on it now.

Just want to make sure I'm headed in the right direction...

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If I had a gun getting light strikes I would

1. check my brand of primer. check the depth of seating of primer. these presume reloading.

2. increase main spring from a cgw 8.5 or 11.5# to any maker's brand of 13# spring.

Assuming you don't have something else odd going on, these two steps have fixed every issue of CZ light strikes for me. ( you have a lot of moving parts and updated parts, so there is a certain level of complexity in looking at how they all work together to get the result you want of a bang for every trigger pull for the ammo you use.)

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I would keep the spring from CGW's and install it on the CZ Custom firing pin. Your problem sounds like the notch in the top of the firing pin that the retaining split pin goes through is not opened up enough or elongated to let the firing pin go forward far enough into the breech face, the pin that goes through the slide/FP will limit the amount of FP movement because the FP runs into it every time you pull the trigger. The CZ custom pin notch is longer than CWG's and will allow more firing pin protrusion and should fix your problem. I have had to elongate the notch on a few of the CGW's extended firing pins to let enough FP into the breach face which caused light strikes no matter which main spring I was using. After elongating the notch I can now run their 11.5# main spring with 100% reliability no mater which primer I use.

One other thing I forgot to mention, make sure the FP block lifter is going all the way up to release the firing pin block and also that you don't have the over travel screw adjusted too far out which would limit the amount of lift and cause the FP to run into the FP block when you pull the trigger because the trigger is not traveling far enough to the rear.

Edited by bowenbuilt
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I would make sure your hammer is not rubbing in the hammer notch in the slide. It is also possible that something is obstructing the firing pin inside the firing pin channel. As bowenbuilt already mentioned this could be the FPRP. I have also seen burrs inside the FP channel impede the firing pin a few times. It may be worth inspecting the inside of the channel.

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Get a czc ext firing pin. The channel on the cgw ext pin isn't long enough.

Been there, done that, participated in it.

Or you can take a file and open the channel up.

Remember, sp01 will never hit like a shadow. You will probably do nest w 13# or 11# if you reload.

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Ok thank you. Can you explain what effect the heavier FP from a RAMI (2075) will have?

And the natural follow-up question to that is, "Should I replace the FP spring at all once I replace the FP with the CZC variety?

I never mentioned a rami FP.

Get the czc FP and spring.

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Ok thank you. Can you explain what effect the heavier FP from a RAMI (2075) will have?

And the natural follow-up question to that is, "Should I replace the FP spring at all once I replace the FP with the CZC variety?

I never mentioned a rami FP.

Get the czc FP and spring.

Hey T

I might have misunderstood what you meant then... (post #18)

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=229985

???

So I take it that I should keep the light spring with the new FP from CZC?

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Ok thank you. Can you explain what effect the heavier FP from a RAMI (2075) will have?

And the natural follow-up question to that is, "Should I replace the FP spring at all once I replace the FP with the CZC variety?

I never mentioned a rami FP.

Get the czc FP and spring.

Hey T

I might have misunderstood what you meant then... (post #18)

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=229985

???

So I take it that I should keep the light spring with the new FP from CZC?

Affirm.

It's not the spring that's the issue. The cgw ext FP sometimes won't let the fp far enough past the retaining pin. You could either file the channel an additional 0.025", 0.050" if you feel bold. or buy the czc that comes with a larger channel.

No fault to cgw, just czc made theirs with the wider channel. Sometimes that makes the difference.

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Ok thank you. Can you explain what effect the heavier FP from a RAMI (2075) will have?

And the natural follow-up question to that is, "Should I replace the FP spring at all once I replace the FP with the CZC variety?

I never mentioned a rami FP.

Get the czc FP and spring.

Hey T

I might have misunderstood what you meant then... (post #18)

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=229985

???

So I take it that I should keep the light spring with the new FP from CZC?

Affirm.

It's not the spring that's the issue. The cgw ext FP sometimes won't let the fp far enough past the retaining pin. You could either file the channel an additional 0.025", 0.050" if you feel bold. or buy the czc that comes with a larger channel.

No fault to cgw, just czc made theirs with the wider channel. Sometimes that makes the difference.

I have been using a diamond rotary bit which is slightly larger than the split pin. It takes about 10 minutes to open up the CGW's pin .040 and when the FP hits the split pin it is in full contact with the pin because the end of the channel mimics the shape of the pin. This will make the pin last a lot longer. I measured the pin depth on my Shadow and cut the channel so that I get the same depth into the breach face on the retained FP. Mine will shoot a pencil out of the barrel instead of just making it jump up an inch just like my Shadow. I am sure there is a reason that the notches are cut so shallow but I cannot get my head wrapped around why. If the FP is blocked what difference does it make how far it protrudes into the breach face when the trigger is pulled and the FP block is lifted? Just another mystery to me.

Edited by bowenbuilt
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Bowenbuilt - "If the FP is blocked what difference does it make how far it protrudes into the breach face when the trigger is pulled and the FP block is lifted? Just another mystery to me."

If the firing pin protrudes too far from the breach face you could pierce a primer no?

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If you set the protrusion as identical to the stock Shadow which is not restricted why would there be a difference? No, a free firing pin strikes the primer with full force and will not pierce the primer unless it is sharp on the end or broken and jagged.

Edited by bowenbuilt
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If you set the protrusion as identical to the Shadow which is not restricted why would there be a difference? No, a free firing pin strikes the primer with full force and will not pierce the primer unless it is sharp on the end or broken and jagged.

I agree with setting the protrusion to the same depth as a shadow.

A firing pin can pierce a primer without being sharp or broken if the hammer spring and firing pin combo are too strong/ heavy. That is why CGW States not to use their extended firing pin with the stock hammer spring (or anything heavier than 15 lb IIRC).

Edited by bthoefer
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  • 2 months later...

Ok so I went ahead and replaced the FP with the CZC. I also used the RAMI FP spring, being that the light spring that came with the CGW FP fit very tightly on the base of the FP. Let's see how it goes this way...

Any updates on the CZC extended FP/RAMI FP Spring combo?

I'm having some issues with light strikes with the 11.5# mainspring. I have the CGW extended FP/spring combo, reduced power firing pin block plunger spring and CZC hammer (polished on the sides). The firing pin block was lightly polished but I have not polished the firing pin though. Changing the mainspring to 13# seems to set everything off.

The rounds are Freedom Munitions rounds. All the primers seem to be seated below flush although I suspect the primers are hard.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I recently misdiagnosed the problem I had with my SP01. Originally I thought it was randomly going into double-action mode from SA"

Whats weird is I had a shadow Target from CZC that did the same thing, I just figured it was "hammer follow through" as some board member told me...

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I'm having the same light strike problem with my SP01 Tactical. It has the CGW pro package installed with their extended firing pin and lightened FP spring. It has the 8.5# main spring and 11# recoil spring.

I reload using only Federal primers.

It is not an all the time deal, just occasionally, but strangely enough, it seems I only get the light strike on the first round when starting from the decocked position (as in the start of a stage). Slide lock reloads are no problem, goes bang everytime.

Question - From the posts above I can see the logic of trying the CZC extended firing pin, but should I continue to use the lightened firing pin spring from CGW or get a new one from CZC?

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Sounds like the 11.5# spring would be the easiest cure. I don't see a lot of difference in the 2 or enough that I could not get used to. If you have a light strike with the 11.5# spring then you know the firing pin retainer channel needs opening up.

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I'm having the same light strike problem with my SP01 Tactical. It has the CGW pro package installed with their extended firing pin and lightened FP spring. It has the 8.5# main spring and 11# recoil spring.

I reload using only Federal primers.

It is not an all the time deal, just occasionally, but strangely enough, it seems I only get the light strike on the first round when starting from the decocked position (as in the start of a stage). Slide lock reloads are no problem, goes bang everytime.

Question - From the posts above I can see the logic of trying the CZC extended firing pin, but should I continue to use the lightened firing pin spring from CGW or get a new one from CZC?

The DA trigger does not hit primers as hard as the SA trigger, so this isn't surprising that you are only getting light strikes in DA.

The hammer is not moved back as far in DA as it is in SA so it strikes primers harder in SA.

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  • 3 months later...
On ‎3‎/‎17‎/‎2016 at 5:45 PM, rowdyb said:

If I had a gun getting light strikes I would

1. check my brand of primer. check the depth of seating of primer. these presume reloading.

2. increase main spring from a cgw 8.5 or 11.5# to any maker's brand of 13# spring.

Assuming you don't have something else odd going on, these two steps have fixed every issue of CZ light strikes for me. ( you have a lot of moving parts and updated parts, so there is a certain level of complexity in looking at how they all work together to get the result you want of a bang for every trigger pull for the ammo you use.)

Rowdy, I have been getting light strikes with my SP01 Tactical. Sounds like the same problem the OP stated. I have the 8.5 hammer spring in the gun and a 11.5# sitting here. I know this is a subjective question, but in your opinion is there really much difference in the feel on the first shot when decocked between the 8.5 and 11.5? I could just put it in and see for myself, but I'm really lazy today.

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19 hours ago, SWHlctx said:

Rowdy, I have been getting light strikes with my SP01 Tactical. Sounds like the same problem the OP stated. I have the 8.5 hammer spring in the gun and a 11.5# sitting here. I know this is a subjective question, but in your opinion is there really much difference in the feel on the first shot when decocked between the 8.5 and 11.5? I could just put it in and see for myself, but I'm really lazy today.

I'm not Rowdy but have had experience with both springs. There is a difference if you're at home on your work bench tinkering and doing slow DA pulls.  You'll be a little lighter with your DA and a only slightly lighter in your SA.  But at speed, I would say no. A smooth trigger (by polishing the internals) makes a much bigger difference in the overall feel than going from an 11# to 8.5# main spring.  

If it were me, I'd make sure the gun runs 100% with 11# (because it should with all the goodies/polishing), then if it does, repeat with 8.5#.

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