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I use spp to work up loads then switch to spm once done for the bump in velocity and to help lessen HS-6 fouling.

Maybe it's me and not my gun, but I could not get 124 MG JHP's to plunk in my CK barrel anywhere near the oal I was used to running. I marked the bullet and found it was contacting the rifling. However 124 cmj's plunk and run like a dream as long as 1.185".

I'm going to revisit my tests with mg jhp's again to confirm. Just a heads up on jumping the gun for loads in a gun you don't have yet.

I appreciated your information sharing, just picked up my gun yesterday and will start the load tonight. We will see and hopefully everything run smooth.

Thanks

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So what if a person has noticeably harder SPP like S&B? Hard enough and large enough to seal and not puncture?

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I use Winchester SPP in my open guns exclusively, without any issues.

For the HS-6 load I use 8.2-8.4 gr, depending upon the chrono results. 124gr MG JHP.

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Hello: Winchester small pistol primers are hotter than Winchester small rifle primers. They give me on average 15 more feet per second. They seal well in 9mm major loads and are sometimes easier to find. I do use Winchester small rifle primers as well for major 9mm. Thanks, Eric

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So what if a person has noticeably harder SPP like S&B? Hard enough and large enough to seal and not puncture?

I've never heard of someone puncturing a small pistol primer in 9 major.

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How many rounds does it take before one would start to see breach face erosion?

I use 8.1gr of HS-6 with Federal small pistol primers seated at 1.165" No issues yet after 6000 rounds.

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Was in the hunt yesterday for a 9mm major load out of the czechmate.

Had the chrono 7 feet from the bench.

Using win brass, win spm primers

at 7.3gr hs6 under 124xtp was getting 1355fps so around 168pf

COL was at 1.13"

After testing, the brass was fine, and so were the primers.

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I have loaded some rounds and looks like my OAL is too long and have some feeding issues, my seating die might not yet fully adjusted, i am getting variants on my loads. I have some 1.160", 1.165", 1.168", 1.170"

I have asked Bobby and he said the bullets i am using (Montana Gold 124gr JHP) should not exceed 1.150" coal, i am at 8.0gr of HS6.

Any suggestions?

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First, do your loaded rounds spin freely in the chamber? This is called the plunk test, if your loads don't spin free it's because the bullet is touching the rifling and you should shorten the OAL until they do spin freely. Second, what sort of feeding problems are you having? Which mags are you using? I've never gotten STI mags to feed 9mm 100% reliability without spacers.

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What type of gun are you running?

Where does it hang up?

Yes, what atlas said, plunk test.

If OAL isn't it, might try:

Is your sizing die in proper placement?

What are you crimping to?

Mag springs

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First, do your loaded rounds spin freely in the chamber? This is called the plunk test, if your loads don't spin free it's because the bullet is touching the rifling and you should shorten the OAL until they do spin freely. Second, what sort of feeding problems are you having? Which mags are you using? I've never gotten STI mags to feed 9mm 100% reliability without spacers.

Thanks for your helping here.

Definitely the rounds are not spin freely in the chamber, and some of them are not even sit flush, i believe those are too long and the tip of the bullet is touching the rifling.

The feeding issue i am having now is fire the first round and the slide will not fully back to battery, i should of take some pictures yesterday while i was shooting to show the exact problem.

I am currently using the MBX magazines and i have changed to the Grams spring and follower, the original follower seems printed out of the 3D printer and i keep having problem with the original follower, some rounds will drop into the mag tube.

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What type of gun are you running?

Where does it hang up?

Yes, what atlas said, plunk test.

If OAL isn't it, might try:

Is your sizing die in proper placement?

What are you crimping to?

Mag springs

I appreciate your help.

I have the CK Arms Thunder 9mm Blackout Open Gun

After each round fired, the slide will not fully back to battery

I will definitely need to recheck my sizing die to make sure proper placement

should i get the cartridge gauge to further verify that i have the right amount of crimp?

I am currently using MBX magazines with grams spring and follower

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If you know your rounds are too long, which I explained may be a problem right from the start, fix that first. If you load rounds that don't plunk you can't expect everything to run right. I fixed the problem by reaming my barrel's throat. The quicker easy option is shorter oal.

If the gun is still brand new it needs hundreds of rounds to free up and break in but don't be shooting it with rounds that are too long to fit the chamber. After 300-400 rounds of major pf, proper length rounds you can evaluate if your gun has feeding issues.

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If you know your rounds are too long, which I explained may be a problem right from the start, fix that first. If you load rounds that don't plunk you can't expect everything to run right. I fixed the problem by reaming my barrel's throat. The quicker easy option is shorter oal.

If the gun is still brand new it needs hundreds of rounds to free up and break in but don't be shooting it with rounds that are too long to fit the chamber. After 300-400 rounds of major pf, proper length rounds you can evaluate if your gun has feeding issues.

Thanks very much for your feedback. I have contacted Bobby and he said for the gun I have with 124 gr MG bullet the COAL should not exceed 1.150"

So, I guess I will have to readjust me sizing die to shorter the OAL and try it.

The concern I have now is I am using 8.0gr of HS6 powder, so shorten the OAL to 1.150" would it be safe? Anything I should be look out for?

Sorry for my newbie questions.

Thanks

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Whenever you shorten the OAL it's a good idea to drop the charge weight and work your way back up with a chrono, you are using a chrono, right?

Setting the OAL for your particular barrel/bullet is the first step in developing a load, don't be lazy ;)

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Whenever you shorten the OAL it's a good idea to drop the charge weight and work your way back up with a chrono, you are using a chrono, right?

Setting the OAL for your particular barrel/bullet is the first step in developing a load, don't be lazy ;)

Thanks again, yes I am using Chrono.

What's the recommendation charge to start with?

I am not lazy >< just try to learn from the beginning.

Thanks

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Yes, you should be on the look out for excessive pressure, recoil, and velocity.

Drop down to a starting load well under 8 grains. Load to something under 1.150" that plunks. Shoot over a chronograph. Evaluate load using information. If all is good increase charge 0.2 grains and repeat the process. Eventually you will be done when you see excessive pressure signs or find a load that makes pf and shoots good.

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Whenever you shorten the OAL it's a good idea to drop the charge weight and work your way back up with a chrono, you are using a chrono, right?

Setting the OAL for your particular barrel/bullet is the first step in developing a load, don't be lazy ;)

Thanks again, yes I am using Chrono.

What's the recommendation charge to start with?

I am not lazy >< just try to learn from the beginning.

Thanks

If I were you I'd figure out what OAL will spin consistently free of your rifling (as you can see you're getting ~0.010" variation from your bullets/process), then load six rounds each at 7.0gr, 7.4gr, 7.8gr, and 8.2gr, chrono and draw a curve; within the useful range of the powder you can predictably extrapolate data in a, more or less, linear fashion. I would also give 115s a try, I personally prefer them to 124s.

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Yes, you should be on the look out for excessive pressure, recoil, and velocity.

Drop down to a starting load well under 8 grains. Load to something under 1.150" that plunks. Shoot over a chronograph. Evaluate load using information. If all is good increase charge 0.2 grains and repeat the process. Eventually you will be done when you see excessive pressure signs or find a load that makes pf and shoots good.

really appreciate your help.

I will lower the powder charge and shorter the OAL and see what happen first.

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Whenever you shorten the OAL it's a good idea to drop the charge weight and work your way back up with a chrono, you are using a chrono, right?

Setting the OAL for your particular barrel/bullet is the first step in developing a load, don't be lazy ;)

Thanks again, yes I am using Chrono.

What's the recommendation charge to start with?

I am not lazy >< just try to learn from the beginning.

Thanks

If I were you I'd figure out what OAL will spin consistently free of your rifling (as you can see you're getting ~0.010" variation from your bullets/process), then load six rounds each at 7.0gr, 7.4gr, 7.8gr, and 8.2gr, chrono and draw a curve; within the useful range of the powder you can predictably extrapolate data in a, more or less, linear fashion. I would also give 115s a try, I personally prefer them to 124s.

Thanks for the tips, will follow this instruction to see if i can get the gun runs smoothly or not.

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I also have the CK Thunder in 9mm

I am loading 124hp MG's with 7.2 of Silhouette @1.140 PF 172

Some where around 1.143 is where I stopped having plunk fails. I shoot with a guy that has a custom built open gun also with the KKM barrel and he is also loading short.

The KKM barrel seems to have a very tight short chamber. I use my barrel to chamber check everything I load. Many rounds fail to chamber correctly and I pile them separately. I have rechecked these fails that have some minor brass bulge ect and 80% + pass the Dillon case gauge.

Once you find your load you'll find the accuracy very good. My CK has been 100% since getting my load dialed in

Edited by Chillywig

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