stickboy44 Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 This is my second attempt at fitting this disco in my stock 2. At first the hammer would not fall in DA or SA, so I filed a little on the wing and the leg. Still the hammer did not fall, i put the slide on and the hammer started to fall most of the time in DA and SA. Some times in SA the trigger doesn't reset all the way. I'm running a 1 piece sear and the Titan hammer....I need to know where to remove metal so I don't destroy this disco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taco2000 Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 I have the same question where you can get rid of all the pre-travel in SA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taco2000 Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 (edited) deleted Edited February 21, 2016 by taco2000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJART Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) Area in red is where you want to 'fit' the disco. You can literally get to zero pre travel in SA if you use the T3 Edited February 22, 2016 by TJART Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justinmac13 Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 On tanfo, along with the "leg" like highlighted above, You will probably need to remove material from the under side of the wing. I did anyway. Be sure to file, test fit, file test fit, etc. a little bit goes a long way, if you take too much off the bottom of the "wing" it will drop the hammer too early in DA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 The topic makes it hard to search for, but this thread tells you basically everything you need to know about fitting a T3 CGW disco to a Tanfo. Good Luck! http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=194198&page=7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justinmac13 Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Take engineereli's advice. I think it was his posts and threads I read when fitting my t3 on my stock2 Runs great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Fitting a T3 on a Tanfo is different than a CZ. Most do not need to reduce the wedge as pictured above. Most only need to remove metal from the bottom of the wing until the hammer will fall in DA. If you have a 2 piece sear than you have to remove metal from the top side of the wing as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickboy44 Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks for all the help I did get it to work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJART Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Fitting a T3 on a Tanfo is different than a CZ. Most do not need to reduce the wedge as pictured above. Most only need to remove metal from the bottom of the wing until the hammer will fall in DA. If you have a 2 piece sear than you have to remove metal from the top side of the wing as well. lol, wut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 just as it reads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJART Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 just as it reads The wing is for DA. If OP is having DA and SA, the fitting of a t3 is the same across the board. If the SA trigger doesn't reset, filing the wing will do nothing; OP needs to hit the wedge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taco2000 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Question, after fitting the T3 disconnector, I can get rid of the pretravel of SA, how about minimize the pre-travel on DA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 just as it reads The wing is for DA. If OP is having DA and SA, the fitting of a t3 is the same across the board. If the SA trigger doesn't reset, filing the wing will do nothing; OP needs to hit the wedge. Sorry I didn't read the op correctly. There's nothing you can do about the da pretravel that's production legal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickboy44 Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 What part on the disco determines how short the trigger reset is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJART Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 What part on the disco determines how short the trigger reset is? Red is for SA pre-travel/reset Aqua is for DA, i.e. if you want a stack in your DA pull, or steady pull to break. If steady pull, take out some of the 90 degree-ness out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 You guys really piss off my wife! All this talk about T3 discos, short SA resets, smooth DA.... I've veen resisting this mod, but broke down and ordered two. The only question is how long I'm bunking with the dog... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhunter Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 You guys really piss off my wife! All this talk about T3 discos, short SA resets, smooth DA.... I've veen resisting this mod, but broke down and ordered two. The only question is how long I'm bunking with the dog... If she is pissed off about a couple of Disco's, I hope she NEVER sees the bill for either bullets, powder or primers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 You guys really piss off my wife! All this talk about T3 discos, short SA resets, smooth DA.... I've veen resisting this mod, but broke down and ordered two. The only question is how long I'm bunking with the dog... If she is pissed off about a couple of Disco's, I hope she NEVER sees the bill for either bullets, powder or primers That's the problem....she did see them! And I had to "fess up" about agreeing to buy ANOTHER stock 2 full of EG goodness, from a buddy that now is sponsored by a different manufacturer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 T3's came in today. Ran out and installed one in the S2 along with a cz sear spring. Using harbor freight diamond dremel bits, the pin hole was up sized in just a few minutes. Then polished with a qtip stub and compound spun in a drill. Needed 3-4 fittings to work. Initially DA wouldn't fall and SA dropped to about half cock. Removed a little off the nose, bottom of the wing, eased the edge of the wing and then polished it up. Only took an hour. Dry fired it for about an hour and it ran flawlessly. One interesting note, the trigger pull weight didn't change (I checked, still 6# 10oz), but the feeling of stacking seems to be greatly reduced. The take up to SA is greatly reduced as expected. Overall, a bit simpler than I feared. But I did double check here to see where to remove metal and that was much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJART Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SK63PcWQjlM&feature=youtu.be Edit: Here's another T3 fit recently. Edited March 3, 2016 by TJART Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) Great info, thanks. Can you explain how the da on the "back part of the nose" works? I had thought it was influenced by the "wing" on the side and not that the sa was influenced by the nose portion. For such a simple system, it sure is involved! Edited March 3, 2016 by johnbu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJART Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Great info, thanks. Can you explain how the da on the "back part of the nose" works? I had thought it was influenced by the "wing" on the side and not that the sa was influenced by the nose portion. For such a simple system, it sure is involved! The wing is for timing. If you want to change the timing of the hammer drop, or are having a timing issue, you can make a slight modification (angle cut) to the wing. The back part of the disco (the angle) deals with the "stack" of the DA pull. For example, you pull in DA and right before the break, it gets a little harder to pull, then the break happens. When you fit the angle, it makes a smooth, no stack, or increase in poundage, to the break of DA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Thanks, that helps fill in more detail in how these critters work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skullmug Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Great info, thanks. Can you explain how the da on the "back part of the nose" works? I had thought it was influenced by the "wing" on the side and not that the sa was influenced by the nose portion. For such a simple system, it sure is involved! The wing is for timing. If you want to change the timing of the hammer drop, or are having a timing issue, you can make a slight modification (angle cut) to the wing. The back part of the disco (the angle) deals with the "stack" of the DA pull. For example, you pull in DA and right before the break, it gets a little harder to pull, then the break happens. When you fit the angle, it makes a smooth, no stack, or increase in poundage, to the break of DA. Huge help, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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