What to get for my first bolt gun?

[Bergy24]

Double check with a Savage and their rebate company on that rebate. I didn't think that model was eligible. I just went through this with my 10t I bought from Cabela's. Cabela's swore the rebate was valid, until I asked the to confirm with the manufacturer,, and then they said it wasn't. . Keep us posted on this.

[jameslee1223]

Double check with a Savage and their rebate company on that rebate. I didn't think that model was eligible. I just went through this with my 10t I bought from Cabela's. Cabela's swore the rebate was valid, until I asked the to confirm with the manufacturer,, and then they said it wasn't. . Keep us posted on this.

The rebate says Model 12 - $100. There is no model that is just 12.

[asr1]

Congrat on the rifle good call on the model 12 I advised 3 of my friends to get the Cabela exclusive model 12 they all got the 308 also the got the SWFA super sniper scope like $299 the rifle shot bug holes at 100 with the 175 gr SMK hand load they dod great at the 1000 yard.

You mentioned that you don't reload. You might want to look at the Fedral gold match ammo 175 gr which is the Serria SMK bulets.

But if yonly shooting up to 800 yard you can use the same in 168 gr will do the job fine slight easer on the pocket.

Also you mentioned that the stock is not you favorite look for Boyd stock the have the tactical model comes in many flavored I mean wood color we all using them the price is very good you might have to pillar bed it which very easy.

Take some time and look at Savage Shooters forum great forum for the Savage rifles. And as mentioned look at Sniper hide too.

[troupe]

You need to flip the funds, $400 for the rifle and $800 for the glass. It will be used in those price ranges, but it will get you started. The glass is important, it has to track, and you can't hit what you can't see.

[jameslee1223]

OK, here it is. I got it home, pulled it apart and cleaned it up. I set the trigger to break at 1.75#. Now I'm waiting on a EGW 20 MOA base, then I'll slap an old 3-9X Burris on it and see how it shoots.

[Tom S.]

With the right ammo, and you doing your part, I'm betting tacks at 100 yards.

[Absocold]

Brand new rifle and new to precision rifle shooting, a few things to keep in mind:

Make sure the barrel is free floated. The 12FV is advertised to be floated but you always have to check and make sure the factory did the job right. Run a dollar bill between the barrel and stock to make sure it's not touching anywhere. It's an easy thing to check and will prevent head scratching over poor accuracy later.

Count on firing at least a full box of ammo through the barrel to copper it up before trying for accuracy. There are several schools of thought on barrel break-in procedures but they're all correct in that the barrel should have copper deposited before best accuracy is achieved. Never use copper removing solvents unless there's a problem with excessive copper fouling, copper in the bore is a good thing.

Barrels usually perform differently dirty compared to clean. After cleaning, fire a round or two into the berm before shooting groups. Fouling shots are a must for most barrels to perform their best.

Three shot groups are impressive to look at but don't actually tell you much about the rifle's accuracy potential. Five shot groups are better. Ten shot groups will really tell you what the rifle is capable of.

[jameslee1223]

The forend does have a lot of flex. It is also slightly touching the barrel on the left side at the end. I'm going to get creative with my dremel to remove any pressure points. I'm also thinking about filling the voids in the forend with epoxy to try and add some stiffness.

[Bamboo]

I have a savage MkII BTVS and when I first got it the barrel was barely touching in one spot and wouldn't pass the dollar bill test. The folks at rimfirecentral suggested putting some tape around the edges of some 100 grit so as to not scratch the barrel and then running the sheet of sandpaper up and down the barrel to get clearance. That worked great and only took a few minutes. Maybe the same technique would work for you.

[asr1]

You are correct this taperware stock will flex especially when you preload it on the bipod. Few tricks on YouTube and Savge shooters forum on how to strengthen Using carbon arrow shafts and like JB weld but as I mentioned above for under $150 you can get great and solid laminated wood stock. Look at Boyd's.

You will be very happy with you new rifle savage is great shooter.

tonight I recived my new 260 rem 28" bull barrel from CBI to replce my 308 win barrel no gunsmithing needed drop in. Nothing wrong with my 308 have few thousands round througt but I always want to play with 260 exlent performance to past 1500 yard using the new 140 ELD X from hornady and H4350.

Enjoy your new toy

long range shooting just like golf but for men no offence all.

[jameslee1223]

That's a good idea Bamboo. I had the action out of the stock this evening and I'm thinking about a more in depth solution. The inside of the forend is just a series of reinforcing poly webs to give the forend structure. There is a channel of course for the barrel but running underneath the barrel is a slot about a half of an inch wide the entire length of the forend. Tomorrow I'm going to get my hands on a piece of aluminum that will fit in that channel. I'll drill and tap it where the sling stud is and epoxy bed that right into the forend. I'm also going to fill all the other voids with epoxy and once that sets I'll relieve the barrel channel.

[Absocold]

long range shooting just like golf

Golf is a game where the fewer strokes, the better. Which means the goal in golf is to play as little golf as possible.

[jameslee1223]

Did a little work to the stock yesterday. I epoxied a 3/8" aluminum U channel, added a small picatinny rail and a new sling point.

[sideshowbob]

You can't go wrong with the Savage. I like the fact that the barrels can be replaced without a gunsmith.

[jameslee1223]

Still need a better scope. Here's the first five rounds of Federal GM 175gr.

Edited April 12, 2016 by jameslee1223

[Absocold]

Mounts are too high as well. But that's a mighty fine group for factory ammo from a stock rifle.

[perttime]

The scope is mounted pretty high but that doesn't necessarily mean that it is "too high".

Group looks promising. Many like to run in their barrels with just single shots between bore cleaning.

[Absocold]

Any scope that is mounted higher than it needs to be is too high.

If you're always shooting the same known distance then you could mount your scope high enough to need a ladder and it wouldn't make any difference. But for everything else, you want the scope as low to the bore axis as possible. Eliminating variables is the name of the game in long distance shooting.

[perttime]

A high mounted scope keeps sight line and trajectory a little closer to each other when the bullet starts dropping - possibly forgiving slight errors in range estimation or deviation in velocity.

[Absocold]

Two reasons not to mount higher than necessary:

1. The farther the sight plane is from the bore plane, the more parallax error you have. The bigger this error is, the harder it is to compute when changing the distance being shot; and the bigger the error that will result if you figure the distance or computation wrong.

2. The farther the scope is mounted from the recoil axis, the more torque and acceleration it experiences. The closer you mount the scope to the bore, the longer it will last.

The only good reason to mount higher than necessary is to bring the scope into proper alignment with your eye. Luckily this is usually not a problem, most people need to add cheek risers/rests to raise their eye to meet the scope.

Edited April 13, 2016 by Absocold

[Stlhead]

Two reasons not to mount higher than necessary:

1. The farther the sight plane is from the bore plane, the more parallax error you have. The bigger this error is, the harder it is to compute when changing the distance being shot; and the bigger the error that will result if you figure the distance or computation wrong.

2. The farther the scope is mounted from the recoil axis, the more torque and acceleration it experiences. The closer you mount the scope to the bore, the longer it will last.

The only good reason to mount higher than necessary is to bring the scope into proper alignment with your eye. Luckily this is usually not a problem, most people need to add cheek risers/rests to raise their eye to meet the scope.

The first statement is not correct. Beware free internet wisdom, it is worth what you paid for it.

[Absocold]

Optic (viewing) angle different from bore angle is the very definition of parallax.

You're thinking of optical parallax which is what happens inside the scope when it's not precisely focused for the distance it's being used at.

Edited April 13, 2016 by Absocold

[jameslee1223]

Yeah, I didn't like the scope height either. I got some new SWFA rings and remounted the scope. I'm still saving for some decent glass. I've got my eye on a Vortex Viper PST 6-20x50.

[Absocold]

Don't worry about a huge objective unless you're shooting in very low light. 40mm works fine, even 30mm is good enough for decent amounts of daylight. Good glass makes up for needing to gather obscene amounts of light.

If you do get the 50mm, I'd suggest you also get the sunshade for it.

[Ten-X]

Two reasons not to mount higher than necessary:

1. The farther the sight plane is from the bore plane, the more parallax error you have. The bigger this error is, the harder it is to compute when changing the distance being shot; and the bigger the error that will result if you figure the distance or computation wrong.

2. The farther the scope is mounted from the recoil axis, the more torque and acceleration it experiences. The closer you mount the scope to the bore, the longer it will last.

The only good reason to mount higher than necessary is to bring the scope into proper alignment with your eye. Luckily this is usually not a problem, most people need to add cheek risers/rests to raise their eye to meet the scope.

The second point is not correct. Recoil is a linear impulse. There is no moment arm created by recoil to cause torque on the scope. The minimal moment arm caused by the stock drop that causes the barrel to rise is not going to put any meaningful force on a scope.