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BASE772

Do it yourself short reset on P320?

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Has anyone else tried this?

My older 320 has the trigger stop pin that falls out. So I found that a 1911 mag catch spring fits perfect on that pin. Cut one in half and put it on the pin. Everything functions fine. Has a shorter reset for sure. And it keeps that pin from falling out.

I AM NOT A GUNSMITH. Or at least until I have a few beers. ?

Anyway, does anyone see a problem with this?

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Did you buy a wolff reduced power 1911 magazine catch spring?

Not sure if that's humor or not,... But it wouldn't matter what spring it was. All the spring does is add thickness to the trigger stop pin.

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So are you essentially just shortening the overtravel by adding width to the stop pin?

Exactly.

It's like 15 degrees but headed to range with some loaded mags. I can't foresee any problems but will report later.

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Is there any worry of it not allowing enough reward movement to prevent the release of the striker?

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It could happen. That's why I choose the spring. Couldn't think of anything thinner that would be held secure. Could always file a little material off the trigger where it hits the pin if need be.

Just got back from firing 50 rounds. No problems at all.

So far I can't see any negatives.

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I have been down this road.

Since the P320 has a trigger actuated reset it needs a small amount of overtravel after the striker is released. You can remove the small amount or try to retime the reset but you won't gain enough to justify the effort.

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I have been down this road.

Since the P320 has a trigger actuated reset it needs a small amount of overtravel after the striker is released. You can remove the small amount or try to retime the reset but you won't gain enough to justify the effort.

Thanks Alma. This was the more technical reply I was looking for. I'm seeing about 1/16" difference in the reset vs a stock one. Not huge by any means. And if it wasn't as easy as just slipping on a spring I agree it's not worth the effort.

And after further comparison with a stock FCU it looks like the trigger bar barely touches the sear. (Pretty sure that's it) when the trigger is fully depressed. Think I'll just take it off. Don't want to damage any parts or lead anyone else to do so either

Thanks again

And thanks for the Shot Show up dates.

Edited by BASE772

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Sorry to dig up an old topic, but I'm not understanding why this is a problem. Is this not basically the same thing the little tube/collar does in the GGI competition trigger kits???

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Hello: The spring will do the same as the Gray Guns sleeve. I actually like a little overtravel so I took the sleeve out on my Gray Guns curved trigger assembly. Thanks, Eric

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3 hours ago, EngineerEli said:

Sorry to dig up an old topic, but I'm not understanding why this is a problem. Is this not basically the same thing the little tube/collar does in the GGI competition trigger kits???

 

Old pre upgrade guns reset differently. This thread is that old.  

 

They needed more overtravel.  

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3 hours ago, dansedgli said:

 

Old pre upgrade guns reset differently. This thread is that old.  

 

They needed more overtravel.  

That makes sense, thank you both for explaining. I just spent the money for an x5 legion, and do actually plan to get the GGI comp trigger at some point, but I'm saving up for a DPP first, so I may mess with cheap DIY trigger upgrades for the time being.

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That makes sense, thank you both for explaining. I just spent the money for an x5 legion, and do actually plan to get the GGI comp trigger at some point, but I'm saving up for a DPP first, so I may mess with cheap DIY trigger upgrades for the time being.


Have you shot the 320 Legion yet? I honestly think it’s great and needs grip tape and it’s GTG!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Yes I have, and it shoots really soft! I'm impressed! This is coming from a Tanfo Stock II shooter. Not sure if I need more grip or not at this point...

 

So I tried this spring/sleeve trigger over travel reduction mod last night and came to two conclusions:

 

First, the spring MUST BE CUT TO LENGTH SO THERE IS STILL CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE FRAME AND TAKEDOWN DISCONNECT ARM. I had it a little longer the first time arround so there was still some tension, and I nearly "bricked" the gun. I didn't realize that was even possible! The spring snapped into a position where it would not allow the takedown arm to move back and allow the takedown lever to be rotated. But it took me at least a nerve racking half hour to get the spring compressed with the gun assembled to get the take down lever rotated down to get the slide back off. Make sure there is still a little clearance between the takedown arm and the end of the spring. 

 

Second, after correcting the above potential disaster, the spring absolutely and considerably reduced over travel and trigger reset. While I was in there I polished all the parts,  surfaces, and bores that people suggest, and that make contact. This made for a greatly improved trigger. All be it, still about 4 lb 4 oz from the middle of the trigger. Tonight, as an experiment, I took out one of the two sear springs. (Ejector port side) Not only did this decrease the trigger pull to about 3 lb 15 oz, it completely transformed that sliding break feel, that I hated, into a crisp break, that I love! The trigger honestly feels pretty darn good now, all with just some polishing and a spring I had sitting around!

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Posted (edited)

I was looking for an alternative to the GG and Apex sleeve. Hadn’t found one until I saw your post. Thanks for sharing, especially with regard to the spring length requirement. 

Edited by DCSigCZ

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I was able to get one of the gray guns trigger return springs by itself from Shooters Connection. Put it in and it reduced the trigger pull another 4 oz. Not bad for $6 plus shipping! Over all trigger is now measuring 2 lb 11.3 oz from the end of the trigger. This reduces the first stage tension on the trigger to very little. I think its enough, but live fire will have to prove this. I gave up on trying to measure the trigger pull from the middle of the flat trigger, like I was doing previously... it was just too hard to get a consistent measurement. Using the end of the trigger method, I had a 2 lb 15.3 oz trigger pull before swapping the spring out. For reference, the same configuration, while trying to get a measurement from the middle of the trigger as I did above, resulted in about a 3 lb 15 oz pull.

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