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Cundiff5535

About to buy a 1050, what do I need..

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Sold my 650, and am upgrading to the 1050 in a few weeks! I currently have a 45acp,223,and 9mm conversion kits and dies. I have an upgraded aluminum roller handle, 2 tool heads, 3 powder drops, the large printing systems, a large pistol case feed plate, and 4 powder checks.

I plan on processing 223 and 300 blackout brass, loading 9,38sc,45,223,and 300 blackout.

In saying that, what else do i need to buy in order have all I need?! I think I am going to order the press in with 38 super or 38SC (not sure what makes more sense).

Anyone else have thoughts... I can afford to buy all of it at once, but I want to make a check list of "must have items" to make this as soon and simple of a transition from 650 to 1050.

All help appreciated!!

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Bobby, I would reach out to Brian or go directly to Dillon. That's a long list and there are different ways to approach how you fulfill this list.

Honestly, I would get the press with one caliber install it, get it running and run a few thousand rounds. Next get a Mr. Bulletfeeder and get it working. Then add all the rest. It may not take you that long to get it all running t that's how I would approach it.

Edited by Why1504

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Bobby, I would reach out to Brian or go directly to Dillon. That's a long list and there are different ways to approach how you fulfill this list.

Honestly, I would get the press with one caliber install it, get it running and run a few thousand rounds. Next get a Mr. Bulletfeeder and get it working. Then add all the rest. It may not take you that long to get it all running t that's how I would approach it.

Nice... Where do you think the best place to buy a Mr. Bullet Feeder is at?

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Bobby, I would reach out to Brian or go directly to Dillon. That's a long list and there are different ways to approach how you fulfill this list.

Honestly, I would get the press with one caliber install it, get it running and run a few thousand rounds. Next get a Mr. Bulletfeeder and get it working. Then add all the rest. It may not take you that long to get it all running t that's how I would approach it.

Nice... Where do you think the best place to buy a Mr. Bullet Feeder is at?

I got mine from Shooters Connection.

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One last thing, you want the Dillon 223 carbide dies. And I would skip the Powder Check.

Edited by Why1504

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I was just going to ask about the powder checks, ditch them? Can I run powder check and Bullet feeder on the 1050 at the same time?... I can probably sell my powder checks if needed.

Also, Can I load lead with the bulletfeeder?

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When I ordered my 1050 I ordered the Powder Check. I unwrapped it but never installed it. You can use one with the a Bulletfeeder but you need a combo seater/crimp die.

I am almost certain you can load lead with Mr. Bulletfeeder but I haven't done this. I only load copper.

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I load swagged lead-alloy bullets on 1050 with Mr.Bulletfeeder. I believe it's better to seat and crimp in two separate steps. I use Lee Factory Crimp, so there is no choice actually. Thus no powder check.

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When I was sponsored by Dillon and they gave me Powder Check Systems, I never even unbagged them - just gave them back to Mr. Dillon.

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So here we go again about the powder check system. I have 6 heads all with powder checks for 6 calibers. I never can get the powder check to work properly all the time. It gives false warnings mainly on the smaller calibers like 223,380 and 9mm. How do you like the thing. Since I was new to reloading when I bought all the quick change kits and powder checks I thought it might save my hide but it's really a pain. Brian, what say you.

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Never use the powder check, and don't expect I will. As long as the turret indexes, I don't see how you can get a double.

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Never use the powder check, and don't expect I will. As long as the turret indexes, I don't see how you can get a double.

Won't get a double, but it is possible to skip a charge when clearing an issue, it's also possible that the powder dispenser can have an issue..... squibs suck!

I visually inspect that powder has been added, works well for pistol cases.

~g

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So here we go again about the powder check system. I have 6 heads all with powder checks for 6 calibers. I never can get the powder check to work properly all the time. It gives false warnings mainly on the smaller calibers like 223,380 and 9mm. How do you like the thing. Since I was new to reloading when I bought all the quick change kits and powder checks I thought it might save my hide but it's really a pain. Brian, what say you.

Adjust it so it is less sensitive.

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So here we go again about the powder check system. I have 6 heads all with powder checks for 6 calibers. I never can get the powder check to work properly all the time. It gives false warnings mainly on the smaller calibers like 223,380 and 9mm. How do you like the thing. Since I was new to reloading when I bought all the quick change kits and powder checks I thought it might save my hide but it's really a pain. Brian, what say you.

When I was sponsored by Dillon and they gave me Powder Check Systems, I never even unbagged them - just gave them back to Mr. Dillon.

:)

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If you have the powder check, you will tend to rely on it. Best to use an eyeball for that IMHO. I'd prefer to be on my toes and look into each case.

Of course, you may feel otherwise, but then go and buy that item when you feel you need it.

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Speaking from the other side, the powder check has saved my butt many times on my 650. Like folks say, it's not when you're in the middle of a run but when you've stopped, for whatever reason, and have gotten out of the rhythm. It might be an adjustment, clearing a jam, or (my favorite) having pulled a charged case from station 3 to weigh the powder, getting interrupted (or just having a brain fart), and putting the case back in without putting the powder back in it. That "beep" says there's too little (or no) powder.

It also saved me when a 9mm case got into the powder hopper and worked its way down below the baffle and was holding up the powder flow. I'd get a few good loads, then "beep". Finally figured it out. Probably a once-in-a-million event, but I'm even more vigilant about keeping the lid on the hopper.

No KBs, with probably 50K rounds on the machine (9mm with 3.1 gr Titegroup, .40 with 4.5 TG - not much of a case-filler).

I haven't really had any trouble keeping it adjusted, but then that's me. YMMV, of course.

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Bobby the 1050 really shines when it is a single caliber machine. Do you realize the cost and time it takes into converting the machine between these calibers? You can buy a 550 for the cost of one caliber conversion on a 1050 and the amount of swearing at the machine cannot be put into money terms :-)

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Bobby the 1050 really shines when it is a single caliber machine. Do you realize the cost and time it takes into converting the machine between these calibers? You can buy a 550 for the cost of one caliber conversion on a 1050 and the amount of swearing at the machine cannot be put into money terms :-)

Totally Agree... I kept my 650 when I got my 1050. I fully process all my .223 brass on the 1050 and load it all on the 650. Once I'm done with my brass processing for the 3gun season, the 1050 is converted to 9mm for the remainder of the year.

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Swearing at a 1050? Why? If it's set up correctly no Swearing is needed... :)

Loading 223 or 308 on a 1050 vs a 650...no comparison. Pistol? Same same. Yea, a head and conversion for a 1050 is expensive, but well worth it if number of rounds that a 1050 can crank out are needed...and it takes no more time to convert than a 650.

Imho...

jj

Edited by RiggerJJ

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