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Think I'm done with CZ's


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I have shot over 10K of S&B primers for the last 6 months. I like them better then CCI and especially Winchester. I have had 2 light strikes with S&B. I have had more light strikes with CCI and WAY more with Winchester. (With both Glock and CZ)

I would never shoot them at the matches that I care about, however. Federal only.

Were the light strikes with S&B process or component related?

Same question with CCI and Win.

Are 2 light strikes in 10k acceptable to you?

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I have shot over 10K of S&B primers for the last 6 months. I like them better then CCI and especially Winchester. I have had 2 light strikes with S&B. I have had more light strikes with CCI and WAY more with Winchester. (With both Glock and CZ)

I would never shoot them at the matches that I care about, however. Federal only.

What he said except I haven't had any light strikes with around 5K of S&B. I've had way more of them with CCI #500 2-3 for every thousand in my M&P or CZ.

Edited by SayHelloToMyLittleFriend
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No, 2 light strikes are not acceptable that is why I do not shoot matches with that ammo, practice only . I have had those light strikes with both my G34 and CZ Shadow. Mixed range brass, S&B, Winchester, and CCI primers. I blame my reloading setup. I believe I sorted it out by now and I have not had any light strikes for a while. Still I would shoot matches with Federal primers only because I have never had light strikes with Federal primers.

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I have shot over 10K of S&B primers for the last 6 months. I like them better then CCI and especially Winchester. I have had 2 light strikes with S&B. I have had more light strikes with CCI and WAY more with Winchester. (With both Glock and CZ)

I would never shoot them at the matches that I care about, however. Federal only.

Impossible, everyone here says S&B's are garbage, cheap, no-good primers.

I have shot over 10K of S&B primers for the last 6 months. I like them better then CCI and especially Winchester. I have had 2 light strikes with S&B. I have had more light strikes with CCI and WAY more with Winchester. (With both Glock and CZ)

I would never shoot them at the matches that I care about, however. Federal only.

What he said except I haven't had any light strikes with around 5K of S&B. I've had way more of them with CCI #500 2-3 for every thousand in my M&P or CZ.

Impossible, everyone here says S&B's are garbage, cheap, no-good primers.

That being said, I've had zero issues with CCI; couple thousand through the exact same set-up I'm feeding the S&B's.

Edited by TJART
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I've just run 3000 S&B getting low SD and ES with them.

They've all gone bang out of a Tanfo thou. Read this thread because of the title.

I like fed. primers also but haven't been able to buy any for a long time so CCI, Win and now S&B's

Good fortune with your gun /problem, truly hope you sort it out and get your

confidence back in your set up

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Did you get your reduced power Firing pin springs from CGW?When I got mine from CGW I originally got the RP-FPS on my Shadow it went on to far and pushed over the stop on pin and there was no tension on stop.I called CGW and they said at least the Shadows and not sure if all new SP-01 have a different spring so the sent me out springs #97041 I would call them as this may be your problem?The spring you have may be spreading out at hammer end and causing firing pin to bind inside channel?

While on the phone yesterday with Stu, he had me measure the FP, Spring, and diameter in and out. Said they check ok.

I have to file out some of the channel as he suggested; haven't gotten around to that, yet.

There were a few posts about polishing hammer/frame... did that, zero difference.

I've got to tell you, I seat my primers much deeper

Me too.

Not saying that's the problem though.

Unfired round picture added. I doubt I have any further to go in seating. Post a picture of yours.

I wish I could, I'm out of the country working until Feb 8th. I'm hoping you ahve this resolved by then, but I'll post a photo when I get home.

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3CE5C3EF-A42D-41FF-9A6A-BEB5AE351736_zps8B297C87-A944-4A69-B218-8A49D1A64301_zps

That is EXACTLY what my primers look like too. Mine actually have a small mark on them from being seated so deeply.

And as d_striker said, I refuse to using any setup that is not 100%. I never have ammo issues, but then again I am a very type A person. Every round, even practice rounds get inspected/case gauged.

I'm not saying you don't have a spring problem, but you need to seat your primers deeper for one thing, then remember, all guns are different so stop comparing your results with someone else's setup. IF your gun will not set off S&B primers, sell them at a discount locally to someone who can use them and buy what your gun can light off.

I have to use Federals in my P-09 with a very light trigger, but a lighter trigger in my Shadow with a 11.5# HS will set off anything.

Learn your gun and go from there. These are race guns, they are not self defense guns, treat them as such.

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Did the two on the left go bang? They look about right. I test primer detonation in my garage, no powder, obviously no bullet. Put on hearing protection and test them out.

Anything less than 100% detonation is unacceptable. Not even 999 out of 1000 is good enough, every single one needs to go bang.

I think you are on the right track for the primers, but you still seem to have some spring issues

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Another 2 cents worth (for a total of 4 cents).

Pencil test clearly shows something is wrong with the pistol. Any main spring should launch the pencil well clear of the barrel, FPB should affect the results.

With the slide off, MS out, does the hammer mover freely with absolutely no drag? If not, find the problem. Is the strut too far through the hammer and binding on frame? Does the strut move freely on the hammer?

If you don't have a calliper to measure things, you need to get one.

RE the TJART post showing primer just above this post. The primers on the left look about right. The one on the right is almost certainly not seated deep enough. Primers should be around .003-,004" in depth. P.S. You can seat primer too deep and cause miss fires. My guess when seated too deep the anvil pushes primer material away from anvil and cup not leaving enough for the FP to ignite the primer.

Haven't seen any discussion centered on proper installation of main spring and strut, nor ensuring no binding in the main spring and strut connection to hammer.

It seems to me this in problem has taken longer to discuss, than it should have to remedy. Just say'

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Another 2 cents worth (for a total of 4 cents).

Pencil test clearly shows something is wrong with the pistol. Any main spring should launch the pencil well clear of the barrel, FPB should affect the results.

With the slide off, MS out, does the hammer mover freely with absolutely no drag? If not, find the problem. Is the strut too far through the hammer and binding on frame? Does the strut move freely on the hammer?

If you don't have a calliper to measure things, you need to get one.

RE the TJART post showing primer just above this post. The primers on the left look about right. The one on the right is almost certainly not seated deep enough. Primers should be around .003-,004" in depth. P.S. You can seat primer too deep and cause miss fires. My guess when seated too deep the anvil pushes primer material away from anvil and cup not leaving enough for the FP to ignite the primer.

Haven't seen any discussion centered on proper installation of main spring and strut, nor ensuring no binding in the main spring and strut connection to hammer.

It seems to me this in problem has taken longer to discuss, than it should have to remedy. Just say'

As in?

Mine is removed, with the cgw spacer in the sear.

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Not to be combative, but block guns don't launch pencils period. Before or after modifications. Dudes with preB slides can launch pencils, dudes with Bs cannot. Your video looks right for the pencil test in a block gun. Block guns have the retaining pin that I believe restricts forward travel of the FP and non block guns don't.

Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

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Not to be combative, but block guns don't launch pencils period. Before or after modifications. Dudes with preB slides can launch pencils, dudes with Bs cannot. Your video looks right for the pencil test in a block gun. Block guns have the retaining pin that I believe restricts forward travel of the FP and non block guns don't.

Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

None taken. Thanks for your insight. It's funny you say that, cause Stu said the exact same thing; his FP had a longer channel than other manufacturers. He suggested I relieve mine or order his, which I'm going to do. He suggested I file the one I have, but I'd just like to drop his in.

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Well, thanks for all the suggestions, but it seems STU IS THE MAN, AND KNOWS CZ'S!!!

He told me on the phone I should try to either relieve my FP, or buy his. Today I decided to relieve some of mine just to see if there was any difference. Well, remember the first pencil test (below)? This vid is after relieving just a little bit of material from the rear of the FP were it rides the retaining pin. Stu will be the only person to receive my business from now on. He not only spent time with me on the phone, but went back and forth on PM, as well. This is how you run a business. So much for my "timing problem."

To clarify, my FP was being restricted by the CGW FP, allowing weak strikes. Stu's FP channel is longer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VccCNLH7e3E

Old pencil test

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GI6XWxTwnQ

Edited by TJART
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So you still want a 34?

yup. this gun has been unenjoyable and a constant pain in my a**.

now it won't reset the hammer in single action. although, i just ran 50 rounds with ZERO light strikes.

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Oh man, you are just full of good luck. Glad you got the light strike fixed. Was thinking of doing the same. Seeing your result, I will try that with mine.

Just do yourself a favor and order your parts from Stu over at CZC and not any "other" CZ retailers.

These aren't even Stu's parts, and he's been in constant contact with me, trying to remedy the problem.

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#11.5 main spring lights up my S&B all the time. I've been using it in matches for a while now with 0 problem so far. I used maybe around 7k now, on both my TS and SP-01 Tactical. It's a good primer but I can't tell if it's better than either CCI or Winchester. I had light strikes with CCI but that was my fault for not seating it deep enough. Winchester and S&B, 0 light strikes so far.

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Well, thanks for all the suggestions, but it seems STU IS THE MAN, AND KNOWS CZ'S!!!

He told me on the phone I should try to either relieve my FP, or buy his. Today I decided to relieve some of mine just to see if there was any difference. Well, remember the first pencil test (below)? This vid is after relieving just a little bit of material from the rear of the FP were it rides the retaining pin. Stu will be the only person to receive my business from now on. He not only spent time with me on the phone, but went back and forth on PM, as well. This is how you run a business. So much for my "timing problem."

To clarify, my FP was being restricted by the CGW FP, allowing weak strikes. Stu's FP channel is longer.

That's more encouraging, can you tell me exactly what you did so I can do the same to my block guns because that is more encouraging to me than what my off the self 75 and 75 compact do.

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So you still want a 34?

yup. this gun has been unenjoyable and a constant pain in my a**.

now it won't reset the hammer in single action. although, i just ran 50 rounds with ZERO light strikes.

That sounds like either the disco needs to be relieved a little more or if you're using MecGar 17's they're rubbing .

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Well, thanks for all the suggestions, but it seems STU IS THE MAN, AND KNOWS CZ'S!!!

He told me on the phone I should try to either relieve my FP, or buy his. Today I decided to relieve some of mine just to see if there was any difference. Well, remember the first pencil test (below)? This vid is after relieving just a little bit of material from the rear of the FP were it rides the retaining pin. Stu will be the only person to receive my business from now on. He not only spent time with me on the phone, but went back and forth on PM, as well. This is how you run a business. So much for my "timing problem."

To clarify, my FP was being restricted by the CGW FP, allowing weak strikes. Stu's FP channel is longer.

That's more encouraging, can you tell me exactly what you did so I can do the same to my block guns because that is more encouraging to me than what my off the self 75 and 75 compact do.

Actually, you can just buy Stu's FP. The one I got was a CGW and it measured .05" less than CZC, in regards to the channel rides the firing pin retaining pin. So, you want to increase the length of that channel to either .25" or buy Stu's and drop in. My CGW measured at .199" and as soon as I relieved about .025 it immediately remedied the light strikes.

So you still want a 34?

yup. this gun has been unenjoyable and a constant pain in my a**.

now it won't reset the hammer in single action. although, i just ran 50 rounds with ZERO light strikes.

That sounds like either the disco needs to be relieved a little more or if you're using MecGar 17's they're rubbing .

Stock CZ mags and mec gar 10 rounders.

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