How are you guys leveling your optics to your rifle.

[Delfuego]

I do not use a laser. That was other members post. I use a thick plumb-line. I run bubbles on the rifle itself to level it to the work and to the shooter. All zeroing and initial load development is done at 100y. Loads are tested at 500y or so to see vertical. My scopes track out 2000y. Everything is magnified at distance. Thought this was the "precision rifle" sub-forum?

[chicoredneck]

Similar to many of the posters, I use a plumb line and a leveled rifle. If you use this method, center the bore on your plumb line prior to leveling the crosshairs. Also, avoid using cheap small levels, as they often have some error. I know this by testing them against larger levels. You can buy small magnetic lelevs that will stick to your rifle, but test them against a good larger level before trusting them.

[xSTONESx]

I use the bubble level  in my MPA chassis to be level, then adjust the scope's vertical cross hair to match a plumb bob hung 25yrs away.

Edited January 28, 2019 by xSTONESx
grammer

[pjb45]

Interesting topic.  On a similar note: I had an AR that I wanted to have Score High Gunsmithing mount. 

 

They have a very good reputation in precision shooting.  I get a call from them to say the upper rail is not trued. 

 

They could not do the mounting to their quality standards.  

 

It was an interesting lesson learned by me.  I tend to have a professional mount my scopes now.

 

 

 

 

[Delfuego]

46 minutes ago, pjb45 said:

I tend to have a professional mount my scopes now.

I bet you send many more rounds down range than any of those guys. You will do fine. It's really not too hard. After 2-3 times you will be a pro!

 

I have also seen and experience a lot of out-of-spec uppers. 1913'ish rails, un-square reciever faces, etc, etc. If you still own it and it shoots, separate rings (non unimount). may get the scope mounted pretty darn close. Burris Signature come to mind too. 

 

PS: I am in Snottsdale too :) Recently moved and found pistol shooting is by far the most popular shooting sort around these parts. This led me back to Brian Enos after a long time.

[skeeljc]

Here is an engineer's answer to scope leveling:

You will need two lasers and a solid vice to hold the rifle.  Mount one laser in the bore and a the other in the scope rings.  Use the two laser points to draw a vertical line at some distance (like 30 yards) in front of the muzzle.  Set the scope in the rings and make the vertical crosshair parallel to the line on your paper.  Tighten the scope caps.  You can use a piece of bar stock with a hole bored in it to mount the laser in the scope rings.  Both lasers can be rotated to be sure they are concentric with the bore/rings.

[pjb45]

On 1/28/2019 at 2:22 PM, Delfuego said:

I bet you send many more rounds down range than any of those guys. You will do fine. It's really not too hard. After 2-3 times you will be a pro!

 

I have also seen and experience a lot of out-of-spec uppers. 1913'ish rails, un-square reciever faces, etc, etc. If you still own it and it shoots, separate rings (non unimount). may get the scope mounted pretty darn close. Burris Signature come to mind too. 

 

PS: I am in Snottsdale too Recently moved and found pistol shooting is by far the most popular shooting sort around these parts. This led me back to Brian Enos after a long time.

I got rid of that upper, a friend gave me a voltor (spelling) which was great.  Gave it to a friend when JP sent me an upper.    I tend towards more expensive scopes; IOR Valada, Swaro, and Accupoint, although I do have a Primary Arm 1-6x that is actually ok. So having a trued scope is a must.

 

I agree, pistol is very popular, however, Rio, Cowtown, and other nearby ranges run a lot of rifle, two and three gun matches.  Check the Rio calendar. Next weekend there is a match but some issues with the road being closed for a race.  Most stages are a reasonable distance but few at 'some' yardage.

[actionshooter]

On ‎1‎/‎27‎/‎2019 at 8:36 AM, Delfuego said:

Do not trust the scope is manufactured exactly. Meaning the turret caps and bottom of the scope may not be perfect and using those will not get your reticle vertical using bubbles and gauges alone. Just because the top turret cap is level, means nothing in regards to the reticle.

 

I always use a plumb-line. I will use bubbles on the rifle itself, and adjust the scope to be vertical against a plumb-line. The plumb-line is vertical. This allows you to be precise and get correct head position, eye relief and a vertical reticle at the same time. I use a fat orange nylon/rubber strap with a weight on the end. It's easy to see, and wide enough to get good reference picture (center/edge). It can be done as close as 25ft or further if you have room; think prone in the kitchen, plumb-line in the yard 

This is exactly how I was taught by a pretty well known long range (PRS) custom builder. I have used this method on all of my rifles and it has worked very well for me. The stories I have heard about the reticles of  high end scopes that are not true, blew my mind. 

[mveto]

I use an EXD Vertical Reticle Instrument and a plumb-line. I found this the quickest and most accurate way to get a level reticle.

[BamBamODA]

Field method: Deck of cards which are always easy to find on deployment. Place them under the flat bottom scope until you can’t fit more. Make sure all cards are centered under scope. 

 

Tech method:

take 2 iPhones with a level app that show degrees and then level your rifle, switch to other iphone to confirm its same level ensuring by eye it’s perfectly in the same position as other iPhone. If phones are not giving same level data the app should have a calibrate feature. Calibrate them Identically this can be a step 1 also. 

 

Once rifle rails are level place scope on rings and finger tighten to even ring gap spacing on tube clamp points. Now level with an iPhone. I usually depending on scope make take top elevation cap off so I’m on scope body not a cap. Depends on make. 

 

Level and tighten, test and check test and check. 

 

App i I use is theodolight Serves many purposes. Also map measure pro is an awesome app for long range shooter. 

Edited June 27, 2019 by BamBamODA

[mwray]

Field method: Deck of cards which are always easy to find on deployment. Place them under the flat bottom scope until you can’t fit more. Make sure all cards are centered under scope. 
 
Tech method:
take 2 iPhones with a level app that show degrees and then level your rifle, switch to other iphone to confirm its same level ensuring by eye it’s perfectly in the same position as other iPhone. If phones are not giving same level data the app should have a calibrate feature. Calibrate them Identically this can be a step 1 also. 
 
Once rifle rails are level place scope on rings and finger tighten to even ring gap spacing on tube clamp points. Now level with an iPhone. I usually depending on scope make take top elevation cap off so I’m on scope body not a cap. Depends on make. 
 
Level and tighten, test and check test and check. 
 
App i I use is theodolight Serves many purposes. Also map measure pro is an awesome app for long range shooter. 

It might be cheaper to just buy the wheeler scope leveling kit. Since it does the same thing


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[BamBamODA]

2 hours ago, mwray said:

It might be cheaper to just buy the wheeler scope leveling kit. Since it does the same thing


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Everyone has iPhones. So it’s already paid for. 

[mildot1]

On 12/17/2015 at 5:38 AM, 2Xalpha said:

There's no point in leveling your scope to your rifle, what matters is that the scope is leveled in respect to the horizon. Some long range shooters even cant their rifles significantly in order to get a better wrist angle, and that's no problem. Yes, your zero might be a little different, but as long as the reticle always remain leveled in respect to the horizon, the adjustments will be correct. I would recommend getting a scope level so you can ensure consistent shooting.

That has to be the dumbest thing I have ever heard in 30 years of long range shooting. I hope you disregard this nonsense!

[Degnan]

Haven’t used this yet but like the idea of a mechanical zero tool. 
 

“The Arisaka Optic Leveler is an inexpensive, easy-to-use tool for leveling scopes mounted in rings or one-piece mounts. The base plate sits on the Picatinny rail or one-piece mount just below the turret cluster of the scope, and then the matching wedge is inserted from the side. As the 11 degree ramped surfaces of the wedge and base engage, the top of the wedge rises upwards and contacts the turret cluster, automatically leveling it.”

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W8AXZ98/?coliid=I25BTPJFEWLINS&colid=7405VYTKFUE1&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[Cnickolas]

On 12/16/2021 at 6:05 PM, mildot1 said:

That has to be the dumbest thing I have ever heard in 30 years of long range shooting. I hope you disregard this nonsense!

I know several guys that do what what described.

 

I personally shine a flashlight through the front of the optic which projects the reticle onto the wall and then ensure that the reticle is plumb. 

[chase214]

I'm lazy I use a deck of cards

[mpeltier]

I too do not trust the scope to be 100% true with respect to the crosshairs being perfectly oriented. 

 

One trick I use is having the rifle perfectly leveled in the vice and the scope leveled to the rifle, I have a door jamb about 40' away that I have verified as being plumb. I look thru the scope to verify the vertical crosshair lines up perfectly with the door jamb while the rifle is perfectly level, and scope has been leveled to the rifle. Sometimes its not.

 

Another trick, on some rifles it's near impossible to get the little level on the rifles rail in such a position to actually view it accurately. I use a little piece of 1/4" Thick x 1" Wide aluminum bar 3" long. I lay it on the rail under the scope with it sticking out just far enough to get the level on. Works perfectly.

 

I do use feeler gauges as well in conjunction with levels (when possible). usually unnecessary, but it is a secondary check to verify my work.

 

The door jamb never moves or gets lost, and the aluminum bar was free. Just like this advice!

Edited January 28, 2023 by mpeltier

[mscott]

I take a 4’ level to the range and draw a plumb line on cardboard at 100 yards. Then have a small level that fits on the picatinny rail to ensure the rifle is level and go from there.

[Bolt_Thrower]

I clamp the rifle into a sturdy tripod, get it level using a bubble level on the scope base, then mount the scope level with the rifle. I then align the reticle with a plumb line or the horizon and mount/adjust the anti-cant device. I use stabila and starrett pocket levels (mainly because they are multi-purpose and reliable), but the wheeler levels work fine too. Once the scope is in the mount, I usually leave it in there, even if I move the scope to a different rifle.

[Sokam101]

I usually just use a level on the rail to make sure its good. Then I clamp my LRA electronic on there to make sure it doesnt move then Ill use  a bubble level on the top of the scope

[Sokam101]

Ive seen some people shine a light throw the scope to project the reticle on a dark wall with a plumb bob