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Does anyone make a muzzle-mounted SG brake that works?


racesnake

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Not enough pressure at the muzzle of a shotgun to make any appreciable difference. All muzzle breaks on shotguns do is look scary, unless its made for door breaching, and then all it does is let the gasses escape thru the break.

Mid-barrel comps do work, but the placement of them is quite a science (or trail and error???). I would suggest checking Firebird or Tooth and Nail to have one installed on your barrel. I have a MKA 1919 with a mid-barrel and it helped, a lot, with recoil and muzzle rise.

jj

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No, the Vepr has an externally threaded barrel for choke tubes. I bought a sgm threaded choke at screwed the brake on to it. It is kind of a weird set up, but it works good. The gun shoots buck and slugs very well. The only problem I have had it the brake seems to interfere with Federal flight control buckshot. It does not pattern as well with it. I think it is hitting on the wings that pop out on the wads. Probably going to buy turkey wads and roll my own buckshot.

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they are correct......no muzzle break is really effective for the shotgun. That being said......on my 1919, I drilled a series of 5mm holes spaced .75" apart for 3" down the top of the barrel starting 1/2" back from the end of the threads for the choke tubes........THEN.....I added one of these: http://www.poly-choke.com/choke2.htm in the vented version. Not because the break works or don't work (in this case "don't').

I added the poly choke so i don't forget my chokes at home.....and well, in this case......the vents on the poly choke 2 looks bad ass on the MKA 1919

PS.......the MKA 1919 uses Browning Invector style chokes......not invector plus

PSS.......the holes on top REALLY have reduced muzzle rise a lot.......i am not recoil sensitive, so i can not speak to that, but I can double tap purdy good with the Remmy Club rounds at 1145fps 1.125 oz loads!!

Edited by TRUBL
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I would agree with Tim. My brake doesn't do much for recoil. But it keeps it flat. I saw all the Russians using them in European ipsc videos and had to try one. My gun does not like less than 3 dram loads with a higher capacity magazine. There is a lot of internal friction from the shell stack pushing up. Basically the hotter the ammo the flatter it runs. Those heavy angle iron shotgun plates at the York IWL are in trouble in June.

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they are correct......no muzzle break is really effective for the shotgun. That being said......on my 1919, I drilled a series of 5mm holes spaced .75" apart for 3" down the top of the barrel starting 1/2" back from the end of the threads for the choke tubes........THEN.....I added one of these: http://www.poly-choke.com/choke2.htm in the vented version. Not because the break works or don't work (in this case "don't').

I added the poly choke so i don't forget my chokes at home.....and well, in this case......the vents on the poly choke 2 looks bad ass on the MKA 1919

PS.......the MKA 1919 uses Browning Invector style chokes......not invector plus

PSS.......the holes on top REALLY have reduced muzzle rise a lot.......i am not recoil sensitive, so i can not speak to that, but I can double tap purdy good with the Remmy Club rounds at 1145fps 1.125 oz loads!!

You can make an effective shotgun brake but it needs to be designed for the lower pressures. I call this my Flash Gordon muzzle break its made out of anodized 7068 aluminum. I have been using it for a few years, it's held up better than I expected. It just clamps on and I made an extension for my choke tube wrench to change the chokes.

usas12Redux1.jpg

SG2redux.jpg

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they are correct......no muzzle break is really effective for the shotgun. That being said......on my 1919, I drilled a series of 5mm holes spaced .75" apart for 3" down the top of the barrel starting 1/2" back from the end of the threads for the choke tubes........THEN.....I added one of these: http://www.poly-choke.com/choke2.htm in the vented version. Not because the break works or don't work (in this case "don't').

I added the poly choke so i don't forget my chokes at home.....and well, in this case......the vents on the poly choke 2 looks bad ass on the MKA 1919

PS.......the MKA 1919 uses Browning Invector style chokes......not invector plus

PSS.......the holes on top REALLY have reduced muzzle rise a lot.......i am not recoil sensitive, so i can not speak to that, but I can double tap purdy good with the Remmy Club rounds at 1145fps 1.125 oz loads!!

You can make an effective shotgun brake but it needs to be designed for the lower pressures. I call this my Flash Gordon muzzle break its made out of anodized 7068 aluminum. I have been using it for a few years, it's held up better than I expected. It just clamps on and I made an extension for my choke tube wrench to change the chokes.

usas12Redux1.jpg

SG2redux.jpg[/quote

I seen a brake of similar design that the Russians were using. What shotgun is that? Does a buffer tube or anything extend into the stock?

Edited by bmiller
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Yes its a USAS-12. The AA-12 pretty much copied the action/gas system other than using a square tube and open bolt. The USAS-12 does cycles much quicker, as it doesn't recoil quite as far into the stock. I have gotten 0.16 splits with mine but I am also running a modded lightweight carrier.

Here is a good video of how the action works.

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  • 1 year later...

I use the R&R double comp on the Saiga, this seems to work great.  But if your tall and your hand gets to close this comp will remind you of your hand position.  It doesn't hurt but will blow your hand off the gun abit and blacken it..

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