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New to revolvers


valerko

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Sooo,

I'm semi good with autos. Actually been kicking ass last year , lol

Wanna try a revolver. Here's a thing , I shoot mostly 9mm and want to stick with revolver that shoots 9mm and I want to use it in IDPA and USPSA ? What would be my recommendations from seasoned pros?

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You can't use any 9mm revolver in IDPA, none are legal. There isn't a revolver that would be competitive in USPSA that would work well or at all in IDPA. A 4" 625 45 ACP is one that could be used for both games but USPSA has really became an 8 shooter gun game now and you can't really make good use of an 8 shooter in IDPA since you can only load 6 and would have to index the cylinder with every reload. IDPA also has a 4" barrel limit.

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Mistake made by many is trying to buy a single revolver that plays well in multiple disciplines. I have a 4" 625 that collects dust. No revolver plays well in all games. Find a game you like and buy a revolver for that game. Nothing wrong with having to buy another revolver and as we all know, the gun is the least expensive part of the game playing equation.

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I have shot plenty of IDPA using a 625 and a 66. It used to be ESR and SSR but now that it it's just REV and with moon clips you have to make 155 PF and with speedloaders you only have to make 105 PF. If you can reload well with speedloaders the speedloader gun at 105 is faster and easier to shoot. Your ability to use speedloaders will determine which gun you are fastest with. I prefer the model 66 these days. I like the K frame guns the best, if you have larger hands the L frame 686 may be better for you.

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My IDPA revolver was a S&W 686 SSR. My ICORE revolver is S&W 929 with a Burris Fastfire 3 dot. Because of the dot I get added to open class for USPSA so it is not worth shooting it with a dot on it for USPSA. I just shoot the G34 for USPSA and IDPA instead

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If IDPA is your game. M67 if your counting pennies ($500-600 everywhere all day long). If you have normal sized hands the M67 is for you. It has the advantage of cylinder holes close together in a nimble and quick frame. Also 105pf will treat that K-frame well.

If you got bigger hands and ready to swing $600-800 Then the L Frame 686 full lug barrel or the S&W 686SSR slab side barrel is for you. Its cylinder holes are spaced a bit farther apart on the L-frame 686 but with the right chamfering and practice you will be loading it like a champ.

If you got big pockets $800-$1000 and want to shoot in Enhanced Revolver then the 4" 625JM rules the roost.

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If IDPA is your game. M67 if your counting pennies ($500-600 everywhere all day long). If you have normal sized hands the M67 is for you. It has the advantage of cylinder holes close together in a nimble and quick frame. Also 105pf will treat that K-frame well.

If you got bigger hands and ready to swing $600-800 Then the L Frame 686 full lug barrel or the S&W 686SSR slab side barrel is for you. Its cylinder holes are spaced a bit farther apart on the L-frame 686 but with the right chamfering and practice you will be loading it like a champ.

If you got big pockets $800-$1000 and want to shoot in Enhanced Revolver then the 4" 625JM rules the roost.

The K and L frames share the same grip frame, they only differ above the trigger. The cylinder in the L frames swings further out from the frame for speedloader use.

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I shoot a 625PC in IDPA and have a for a few years. Every Fall I switch to REV and then some time about May I switch back to a 9mm 1911. I also have a 686 SSR but I really like the 625 because

1) I get all my brass back with the moon clips

2) Moon clip reloads just can't go as badly as speed loader loads (ever)

3) If you do go REV in USPSA, you will be using moon clips so you might as well be used to them.

I actually just bought a 627 recently and am in the process of getting the gun tuned and getting all the gear to shoot REV in USPSA all winter as well.

KYGunCo had the 625PC on sale recently for under $800. That is a good deal on a new one.

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If IDPA is your game. M67 if your counting pennies ($500-600 everywhere all day long). If you have normal sized hands the M67 is for you. It has the advantage of cylinder holes close together in a nimble and quick frame. Also 105pf will treat that K-frame well.

If you got bigger hands and ready to swing $600-800 Then the L Frame 686 full lug barrel or the S&W 686SSR slab side barrel is for you. Its cylinder holes are spaced a bit farther apart on the L-frame 686 but with the right chamfering and practice you will be loading it like a champ.

If you got big pockets $800-$1000 and want to shoot in Enhanced Revolver then the 4" 625JM rules the roost.

The K and L frames share the same grip frame, they only differ above the trigger. The cylinder in the L frames swings further out from the frame for speedloader use.

Exactly why I posted what I said. Large hands wrap around and interfere with speedloading for those who weak hand reload. The L frame works better for larger hands due to the cylinder clearing the frame better. I have huge hands and use a 67. I get away with it because I am left handed and transfer the gun like many, right handed strong hand loaders do. I sure hope you and I are not confusing this new buyer.

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If you're IDPA focused I'd honestly suggest the 625 if you like moonclips as they require you make 155PF to do so. Plus, there are a LOT of well sorted and slicked up 625s on the used market these last few months. You can find some great deals on a ready to shoot package.

The most competitive guns will be 4" S&Ws in 38 if you don't mind speedloaders. I tend to have a bit more "fun" at IDPA matches so I'll be shooting full house 180gr mags out of my 3' GP100 and probably one match with a 454 Alaskan. It tends to draw a crowd and is quite a good time.

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I have been shooting my Ruger Alaskan loaded with 45 Colt in USPSA and IDPA for the past ten years. I mainly shoot for fun, but that does not mean that I don't try to win. The S&W 625 is a good revolver for both USPSA and IDPA, and I own one myself. I simply prefer shooting the Ruger Alaskan in shooting competitions. Ruger GP-100 revolvers are also good, but many prefer the S&W revolvers for competition.

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I shoot IDPA but I'm not very good. I wanted to get a revo and after much consideration I purchased a standard 686. Trigger work and fiber optic sights and a few other goodies, safariland comp 3 speed loaders and carry holster. With this I can shoot minor if I wanted to try USPSA which I want to do but I'm afraid that the 6 shoot capacity and 4" barrel will not be an encouragement factor. Some might find it ironic but most of my revolver shooting has been in steel challenge, not IDPA or USPSA. Steel wasn't even on my radar screen until after I started shooting my 686.

I love shooting the gun and it has taught me much about revolvers but there is a 627 PC in my future. This is going to be a big cash layout because I will probably load 38 short Colt instead of 38 spl and will need to buy moons and a game holster/belt/ammo holder, basically an entire new set-up. There is, as others have said, no single revolver that will work well with both IDPA and USPSA. Some might think that I would be better off with a 929 and maybe when I get ready to actually get one it will be a 929 but I have friends that have had to put a lot of effort into getting 929s to work right. But getting my 686 to where it is now wasn't very easy either.

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  • 2 weeks later...

HI,

Check the rules on the 38 short colt for IDPA out of the 38/357, it may be an issue.

IDPA won't allow GAP brass in a 625 and I'm pretty sure I was told they don't allow anything smaller than 38 special in 38/357 magnums.

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HI,

Check the rules on the 38 short colt for IDPA out of the 38/357, it may be an issue.

IDPA won't allow GAP brass in a 625 and I'm pretty sure I was told they don't allow anything smaller than 38 special in 38/357 magnums.

You can use GAP brass in IDPA. You can't use anything shorter than 38 special in a 38/357. Here is the relevant rule from the book.

8.2.5.3.2 Ammunition used must match the cartridge listed on the firearm with the following exceptions:

8.2.5.3.2.1 .38 special in .357 magnum

8.2.5.3.2.2 .44 special in .44 magnum

8.2.5.3.2.3 .45 Auto Rim or .45 GAP in .45 ACP

8.2.5.3.2.4 .45 ACP or .45 GAP in .45 Colt

8.2.5.3.2.5 .40 S&W in 10mm

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I've got a GP100 Match Champion, and it's a great wheelgun for the SSR game. I've been able to tune the trigger down to a reliable 7.5lb pull that is slick as snot, and it's pretty accurate as well. I shoot a lot of Smith's, but this is my first GP, and I REALLY like it. I prefer it over a 686 for most purposes.

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HI,

Check the rules on the 38 short colt for IDPA out of the 38/357, it may be an issue.

IDPA won't allow GAP brass in a 625 and I'm pretty sure I was told they don't allow anything smaller than 38 special in 38/357 magnums.

You can use GAP brass in IDPA. You can't use anything shorter than 38 special in a 38/357. Here is the relevant rule from the book.

8.2.5.3.2 Ammunition used must match the cartridge listed on the firearm with the following exceptions:

8.2.5.3.2.1 .38 special in .357 magnum

8.2.5.3.2.2 .44 special in .44 magnum

8.2.5.3.2.3 .45 Auto Rim or .45 GAP in .45 ACP

8.2.5.3.2.4 .45 ACP or .45 GAP in .45 Colt

8.2.5.3.2.5 .40 S&W in 10mm

Stand corrected, it was 44 russian you can't use as the 2nd one I'd checked on. Then assumed GAP would be in the same thought process of the rule designers.

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