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Sear Fitting and Titan Hammer Qs


Czechnology

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I have been working on fitting the extreme sear to the safety on my stock 2 since I installed the Titan hammer as well this morning.

I have a few questions on the final out come of fitting the sear.

IMG_3905_zpsoee78dnq.jpg

Here is the extreme sear in stock form. You can see how long the leg is that engages the safety.

I was under the impression based on reading other threads that you file back this leg until the safety will engage:

IMG_3908_zpsmukopnui.jpg

However I have filed it back to the point there is almost no leg at this point:

IMG_3909_zpslpj8zbpl.jpg

The safety now engages and the trigger will not drop the hammer in SA or move at all in DA. I am just not sure if this was the correct way of fitting the sear.

Now I also have one more issue; The DA pull is now much worse than before I installed the Titan Hammer. I managed to warp the top of the hammer strut a bit when re installing the hammer strut pins and hammer strut into the titan hammer. The hammer strut does not sit very tight inside the Titan hammer now so I am assuming this is my issue; Ordering a new hammer strut now either way.

I just wanted to make sure there is not another possibility that I am missing that would cause the DA to worsen after install. I also noticed on the bottom of the Xtreme sear there is a casting mark that the hammer drags across. Should I look at polishing this off to smooth off the ledge?

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First off, you do NOT "file back" that leg. You file UNDER it so it can go over the safety lever. Sadly, the picture seems to show a sear that is no longer able to engage the safety.

Did you get the strut backwards? It will bind if backwards. That's my only guess on the da!

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UPDATE:

I took everything apart and reassembled the gun; the DA is now as it should be.

I got a replacement sear in and will be fitting that this week.

Does anyone have detailed pictures or video to show exactly what they did as far as filing the sear to fit it to the safety?

The info for working on tanfo is severely limited. Anything you guys can provide would be great and then I will try to document fitting this sear with pictures to put together a more in depth guide for future users to help them along the way.

Also did anyone else notice an increase in pre travel with the install of the titan hammer? There is quite a bit of pre travel now compared to the stock hammer in single action.

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The easiest way to explain what to do with the seat is to file it just so that it barely clears the nub on the safety where they touch on the seat cage. Go slow because you can't put material back. It is the same process that is used to for the seat on a manual safety CZ75.

There is more pre travel due to the angle of the hammer hooks. The only way to reduce that is to modify a Cajun Gunworks disconnector and replace it with your current one. There are posts on this forum how to do both.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

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If you put the gun together with the slide off, you should be able to see what you need to do. I always modify the safety. It takes one pass with the dremel and it's done, but I'm good at it now. You probably want to use a file and go slow. The safety is an expensive part to be grinding on, but taking the sear in and out of the cage to test it is too annoying for me, so I do the quick route.

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The easiest way to explain what to do with the seat is to file it just so that it barely clears the nub on the safety where they touch on the seat cage. Go slow because you can't put material back. It is the same process that is used to for the seat on a manual safety CZ75.

There is more pre travel due to the angle of the hammer hooks. The only way to reduce that is to modify a Cajun Gunworks disconnector and replace it with your current one. There are posts on this forum how to do both.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info on the fitting and disconnector. The pre travel isn't that big of a deal; if I ever feel the need I will look into fitting the CGW disconnector; I believe from reading past threads it is quite a bit of work to get it to fit.

If you put the gun together with the slide off, you should be able to see what you need to do. I always modify the safety. It takes one pass with the dremel and it's done, but I'm good at it now. You probably want to use a file and go slow. The safety is an expensive part to be grinding on, but taking the sear in and out of the cage to test it is too annoying for me, so I do the quick route.

I think using a slave pin makes putting the sear cage back together pretty simple; especially after you have done it 10-20 times lol. But I hear ya on it getting annoying and taking the hassle free route with the safety filing. I have already screwed up one sear so I don't want to take my chances on the more expensive safety.

So I have this 100% correct and so others can lear from my mistakes; here is a picture of the 1 piece sear:

IMG_3962_zpsfdxrapnn.jpg

The shorter leg in the foreground is the one that we will be modifying to fit to the safety as it is what needs to be modified to allow the safety to engage.

Now here is where I want to verify with others who have already fit a 1 piece sear to the safety:

4d312d7f-0332-4fc9-bf57-749727f9cded_zps

The face that i have boxed in red is the face we file, correct??

Essentially we are keeping all the same angles to that curved face but thinning the leg to allow the safety to clear? Is that correct?

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Yes, remove metal from the red box area. Slowly. The "beak" or point of that leg will only recede a little.

I assembled the sear/cage WITHOUT the spring and checked, file, checked, until it was close.... then put in the spring and needed a few touches.

I STOPPED when I could just barely get it to engage and it was tight! With use it loosened up nicely.

If the metal removal angle is too blunt, hard pulling the trigger in sa can rotate the safey enough to drop the hammer.

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Sear has been filed and now functions perfectly with the safety.. Now for the next step.

Fitting the extended Firing Pin Block to allow it to function as it should.

5f189ca5-757b-4ce0-b188-286f7d404aed_zps

Referencing the picture above; there are 3 sides to the FPB that sticks out from under the slide. The middle largest flat section (red arrow) is what I assume needs to be filed. Is that correct? Do the two angled flat sections (green and blue arrows) need to be filed at all or are they left alone?

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Check that the FP doesn't drag on the block. That happened to me and evidence was some preening of the block and pin.

Any way to check other than peening on the block/pin?

You can keep the hammer held back and the trigger pulled. This will simulate firing the gun. Then take a punch and push the firing pin forward. It should not drag or get stopped by the FPB.

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Check that the FP doesn't drag on the block. That happened to me and evidence was some preening of the block and pin.

What is the correction if it is dragging?

I took a diamond file and removed the peened-over material on the FP and FPB. I figured they were doing a good job of showing me where material needed to be removed.

Ideally, before this happens you do the test I described earlier and remove material from the bottom of the FPB until you have proper function. By bottom I mean the flat surface which protrudes out of the slide and contacts the sear lifter arm. Be very careful as the difference between correct function and a ruined FPB is a few thousandths at most. This is with a one-piece sear and extended FPB.

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